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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 3" lift and now I wish I had done a 6". Am I the only one that feels this way?

Anyone have a 6" that wish they would have only done a 3" lift??
 

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I thought of a 6" but comutting 100+ miles a day didn't see the need to do so an still be stable running 80mph + all the time
Im going with the Bilstien 5100 adjustable on sat
 

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I will upgrade to coilovers but remain 3". I've already been in a few situations where being taller wouldn't help. Center of gravity and height in general. Although with my lightbar I can't go into any garage now.
 

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Nope, I love my ICON 3.5" (DR) 6" is to high for off camber situations, it makes your COG to high IMHO. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Adding a 1 inch body lift with a 3.5 in suspension may be a good option. Should make clearing bigger tires less of a headache.
Who makes a body lift for the FJ? I would consider a 2" body.
 

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I have 3in lift and love it, the only way i'll go higher is if I do a SAS.
Same here. I am not a fan of the look of a hi lifted IFS. Not my cup of tea.
 

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Nope, I love the DR/ICON 3.5" lift. IMO I think that the Icons perform much better than most 6" kits and still have a good stability.:bigthumb:
 

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I wished I went with a 6". I use to have OME mediums and then went with heavies. I am not interested in looks and ideally I want a SAS for better Flex and more belly room for crawling over rocks. The SAS will run you over 10K and a 6" can be had for a fraction of the cost. For the situations I have been into there have been times where I kept telling myself that I should have went for the 6" just to get more clearance under the belly of the vehicle to save me from having to throttle my way (Cautiously) over. A lot of the times I just had to take a little easier line than the one I wanted to try. If we didn't have that crossmember underneath our vehicles then I could gain possibly another 3-4 inches that would have gotten me out of a pickle. A 6" would also allow for more approach and departure angles.

I guess it all depends on what you want to do. If you plan to do some extreme ROCK crawling and need more flex then save your money. If you want some extra room so you don't get hung up then a 6" would be ideal. The way I see it is that you will be tackling the same terrain as a 3" but just have the clearance to make it without throttling to bump yourself up and over which with a rear locker engaged could spell damage.

Here are some situations where I wish I had it.

I actually slid down that before my front wheel touched dirt.


BellyDoc cut his crossmember and following him through the rock garden I can see where that little extra clearance allowed him to work his sliders to turn the vehicle where I had to fight and bulldoze the budbuilts in order to use my sliders to get me around the same lines. He replaced his transfer case with a Lefty so he had the extra room to cut his cross member off and include a new one that is tucked up higher.





Here is a place where I had to bump throttle my way through while each time I hoped my rear diff didn't give way.


I have more pictures but I think you can see the point.


Land vehicle Vehicle Car Automotive tire Off-roading


Land vehicle Vehicle Regularity rally Car Toyota fj cruiser


Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive tire Off-roading Tire
 

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...where I had to fight and bulldoze the budbuilts...
Don't want to thread hijack about skids, but maybe that's your problem right there. The Buds (and other popular skids, not picking on Bud inparticular) are comically and unnecessarily low-hanging...

When Wes and I did Woodpecker, we basically had the same truck - no lift, same size MT/R tires... but he had the Buds and I had no skids. I had a MUCH easier time in a bunch of places. Those 2" or whatever that the skids hang down is a really big deal!
 
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