Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
When researching a blinking Error light on my Waeco fridge (too low voltage due to insufficient wire grade and length of wire) I came across this one - an ARB wire loom designed for the ARB/Dometic/Waeco fridge. I did a search, but couldn't find another posting about this so I figured this might help some of you as well.

ARB Fridge Freezer Wiring Loom ? cruiserheads.com store

This wire loom offers two benefits - one, it is a heavier grade wire (10 gauge) and secondly, it uses a merit/hella receptor for the fridge to plug into. This receptor locks the fridge power plug in place as to opposed to a cigarette lighter where the power plug is held in place by friction only. In order to use the merit receptor just remove the red plastic ring on the plug that goes into the cigarette lighter - insert the plug into the merit receptor and "click" - it stays in place. A much more positive way of holding the plug in place under off-road conditions.

An interesting observation is that the new ARB fridge is manufactured by Dometic - which bought Waeco a few years ago. So the ARB fridge is using the compressor and the controls from Waeco. Thus the performance specs are identical. ARB worked with Dometc on the new shell for the fridge. Here is some background and a comparison with Engel, from ARB themselves.

http://www.arbusa.com/uploads/PDF/newProductAdvice/FridgeFreezerSalesGuide.pdf

I just installed the ARB wiring loom, running it straight to the aux battery. Now I can use the Turbo mode for cooling down the fridge even when the truck is not running. The added power due to the thicker cables ensure the fridge will get the juice it need, instead of fighting a voltage drop due to poor wiring.

Keep em' cool :)

Bjorn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
419 Posts
Nice find, Bjorn.
I had the same low voltage problem on my Dometic.
Thought it was a low battery. Now I realize it hasn't happened again after
I rewired with 10 gauge wire. Just luckly guess on my part.
Curt
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,634 Posts
Just installed a second battery, the wiring loom and the Dometic CF-40 fridge.

A couple of questions:
1. If you used the loom, did you have to cut off the battery end connectors and get bigger ones so they fit the battery terminals? They are too small and before I cut them off and replace, I want to make sure I am not overlooking anything.

2. When I plugged the fridge into the Hella-type 'secure' socket, it seemed that if I wiggled it a certain way, I could it get to lose power. Anyone else experience this? I might have to figure out a way to secure it to the panel where the socket is attached to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
415 Posts
I hard wired mine into the truck with the provided DC cord. I cut off the 12v male adapter and wired directly with 10g wire to the battery. I made my own loom and used a Blue Sea fuse box with a additional breaker under the hood.


I tucked ~8 feet of wire so I can run the fridge out of the car at night when camping.

I plug into house power 110v when in the garage. The new ARB automatically switches to AC when plugged in to 110. I will eventually run a dedicated 110v wire to the front of the truck; for now, I just roll down the driver window and plug into an extension cord.

I leave my fridge on 24/7. It is nice to have cold water at will living in the desert. It's also is nice to be able to grocery shop and not worry about spoilage if I want to run other errands.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DCC

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
Just installed a second battery, the wiring loom and the CF-40 fridge.

A couple of questions:
1. If you used the loom, did you have to cut off the battery end connectors and get bigger ones so they fit the battery terminals? They are too small and before I cut them off and replace, I want to make sure I am not overlooking anything.

2. When I plugged the fridge into the Hella-type 'secure' socket, it seemed that if I wiggled it a certain way, I could it get to lose power. Anyone else experience this? I might have to figure out a way to secure it to the panel where the socket is attached to.
I just installed mine and noticed the same two things. Did you ever find any more information on that?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
913 Posts
I installed the ARB loom in my FJ; due to the same error codes on my ARB fridge. Solved the problem. I did have to clip off and replace the battery end connectors; which isn't infrequent with various looms supplied by manufacturers. I'm not that sold on the "Hella" type socket. I haven't had the intermittent connection problem, but it's not that hard to bend the metal bits inside the socket. I didn't have a problem with the $42 price; with wires, connectors, the socket and all terminations shrink wrapped; it saved a ton of time.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,634 Posts
I installed the ARB loom in my FJ; due to the same error codes on my ARB fridge. Solved the problem. I did have to clip off and replace the battery end connectors; which isn't infrequent with various looms supplied by manufacturers. I'm not that sold on the "Hella" type socket. I haven't had the intermittent connection problem, but it's not that hard to bend the metal bits inside the socket. I didn't have a problem with the $42 price; with wires, connectors, the socket and all terminations shrink wrapped; it saved a ton of time.
I used the fridge for the first time in Ouray last year and it was not secured properly and it broke the 12volt plug when it slid against it. I ended up cutting off the male from the fridge cord and the female from the ARB cord and splicing together. At least I know now that it won't come out of the socket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I've been through three connectors now for my fridge and I think I am finally happy.

I started with My ARB fridge in a cigarette lighter type outlet, but I fount that it would get bumped and the center conductor + pin on the pad would move off the + pad in the socket and lose power.

So i installed a Hella plug. This has worked pretty well for the last year, but one of my buddies had a problem with the center pin in the plug losing connection, it was like the spring and fuse would push in and the get stuck so the spring wouldn't push back forward and make contact with the pin. We tweaked it and got it working, then returning from the same trip I unplugged the fridge and was taking it out of the truck when the center pin on the plug hit my arm and burned me. The pin was really hot, so I figured the problem my friend had was due to a melted plug from this heat. After further examination it makes sense, there is not a lot of contact surface between the + plug and the + clip in the hella. So it heats up due to the resistance.

Looking for a better solution I found the Anderson Power Pole connectors. I bought A bunch of the 30 Amp connectors.They seen to be more durable, make positive contact ever time and not heat up. I'd suggest them to anyone looking for a good connection to their fridge, or anything else. I cut he Hella/Cigarette Lighter plug of the lead to my ARB The plug has an 8Amp glass tube type fuse, so I installed an ATC fuse holder with a 7.5 Amp fuse just before the power pole to replace it. I got my power poles and a surface mount for them from Powerwerx: Online Shopping for Anderson Power Products Powerpoles, Wouxun Radios, Wire & Cable, Adapter Cables, Powerpole Power Splitters, West Mountain Radio RIGrunner & more.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top