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Discussion Starter #1
Well, I finally pulled the trigger on a new, more functional, roof rack. Something I've wanted to do for a long time. I had already added the Warrior Products drop in basket, axe and shovel mount, Hi-Lift mount, (and then switched to the Demello Offroad Hi-Lift mount) to my OEM factory rack just to get some better use out of it on camping trips, exploring, etc.

However, with the purchase of an OZTent RV-5 and accessories, I really needed some more space on the roof rack. Plus, I've wanted to get a real rack for years.



I've looked at tons of racks on forums, etc. over the years. I figured I wanted a flat rack in case I ever decided to get a roof top tent, but then I liked the enclosed front basket space of the Baja Rack EXP and the ARB Touring. Being an ARB fanboi, I went that direction.

I bought the ARB Touring Rack #3800200 , ARB FJC Fit Kit #3720100 , and the ARB Awning Mount Kit #3700200 since I already have an ARB 2500x2500 awning. I bought the stuff from 4 Wheel Parts since they have free shipping to their stores if you pick it up. Otherwise shipping would have been over $200.





Old rack and accessories removed.



Clean out all of the crud from the mounting holes. Taking the old bolts out was a pain. They were in there tight. So tight that the friction of taking them out heated them up so much that I blister-burned my hand when I pulled the bolts out of the holes.



After reading many more forum threads on roof racks and RVs, I knew that sealing this thing was going to be very important. It seemed like everyone that knew what they were doing said to use butyl. So I ordered some butyl tape off Amazon and cut it to fit the openings.



Make sure you cover the gap between the roof and the bolt mount holes. I hear that's where water can get in and leak on to the headliner.



Then the ARB supplied rubber spacer. The instructions even say that you may want to put some kind of sealant under the rubber.



Then I put RTV on the bolt threads. I had read that a few people didn't treat the threads and water got in on the threads themselves. The OEM Toyota rack bolts had some kind of sealant on them too when I took them out.



Front mount done.



Rear mount done.



Fit Kit installed.



I got my neighbor and his son to help me get the rack up on the fit kit. It's not light and it's damn bulky. You don't want to drop it. Here's the rack bolted on to the fit kit and done.



Here's the side with the awning mounts. They just slip in between the rack and the fit kit.





No leaks so far. I'm taking a camping trip in a couple of weeks. Looking forward to trying out the rack.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Will it still fit in the garage?
No, at least not where I used to drive in. I have a stupid decorative arch in my door opening that I want to sawzall out. I had too much crap on the left side to try straight down the middle. It might fit if I go straight center but I have to clean it out before I can try it.

This thing is tall when you add it to the lift and taller tires.
 

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Very nice addition Don!
 

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Looks good!
is it taller than the stock rack configuration then?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Looks good!
is it taller than the stock rack configuration then?
Overall it might be an inch or so taller just because of the front enclosed section. With the OEM rack being curved to match the roof, and the height being in the back, I could fit in my garage. With the ARB being tall in the front, it hits. I haven't tried backing in yet though. Got to clean out the garage first.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Awning mounted. That's the OZTent on the rack behind it.





 

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Discussion Starter #10
Oztent is high on my list
I'm very impressed with the build of the OZTent. I've only been able to use it one night so far but it fit two full cots and an air mattress for three people. The RV5 may be too big for some people but I like the extra room. The main downside is the folded size. It's over 6 feet long in the carry bag. I have to put it on the roof. It'd be from the back door to over the seats inside the FJ. It took me about 20 minutes to set up the first time but I was reading directions, identifying which guy lines went where, and which legs to unfold first. With practice I can see it being a 5 - 10 minute tent with staking down. The "30 second tent" is kind of a marketing deal. Yeah, it's up in 30 seconds once you take it out of the bag. Then you have 10 minutes of staking everything down. :)

Good thing is that I have a 5 day 4 night trip coming up, staying at a different place every night. I'll really be able to put it through its paces.
 

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fka BLACK HAWK
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I've been looking at the rv2. From the website I'm looking at the rv2 Is about $50 more than the rv1. I think it was $150+ difference between the 2&3 . Since it's just me and maybe soon 2 Labradors the 2 will be just fine
 

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I'll be pleasantly surprised if two years after your post you're still around to reply, but here goes...

You recommended butyl tape seal, but because your post no longer has pictures (at least none that I can view), I didn't see exactly where you used it.

My OEM rack was broken by large fallen oak tree, so I'm doing a delete until I decide which upgrade I want. So I need to be sure everything is sealed up good and proper until I do, especially through the winter.

Your time and help is appreciated.
 

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I'll be pleasantly surprised if two years after your post you're still around to reply, but here goes...

You recommended butyl tape seal, but because your post no longer has pictures (at least none that I can view), I didn't see exactly where you used it.

My OEM rack was broken by large fallen oak tree, so I'm doing a delete until I decide which upgrade I want. So I need to be sure everything is sealed up good and proper until I do, especially through the winter.

Your time and help is appreciated.

@Texagon last logged in just yesterday. If you click on their profile you can see this information. In addition..FWIW...i can see the pictures. Using Firefox on Apple Imac with adblocker.
 

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That's great. I completely forgot about looking for his last login. Thanks.

And I'm guessing I can't see the pics because I'm on a work computer...shhhhhh....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That's great. I completely forgot about looking for his last login. Thanks.

And I'm guessing I can't see the pics because I'm on a work computer...shhhhhh....
Thanks @SilvFx.

Yeah @FJFool I'm still here. I can't rid myself of this forum addiction. If you need a direct link to the pictures, here's the imgur album.

https://imgur.com/a/hocJZ

On the butyl tape, man, that definitely seals it up. In hindsight, that's a "belt and suspenders" solution. It rained on that butyl tape and bolts with the RTV on the threads here in the rainy Pacific Northwest for 2 solid years and not a drop of water inside my truck. However, I since changed my rack again to a Front Runner Slimline II. When I took the old ARB Touring off, that butyl was a bit messy to clean up but it was still pliable, hadn't dried out and was still working fantastically.

For my new rack install this time, I skipped the butyl. Front Runner recommended in their instructions to RTV the bolt threads like I had done before but to put a "ring" of RTV around each hole in the roof. You'll see that there's a gap between the roof metal and the plastic that the bolts screw into. It's that gap you have to seal. So I made a ring of RTV around each white plastic hole.



My new rack has been installed for about 8 months now, during the rainy winter, and still not a drop of water inside. So you can still go butyl or you can do it a bit easier with just some good RTV application around the roof holes and on the bolt threads. I'm sure some people think I overthought all of this but I did not want to have to deal with a wet headliner and taking the rack off again just to fix the seals. Hope that helps some. When you get to a PC where you can see the pics, it'll help.

Actually, reading your question again, I see you are just deleting. It'll be even easier. I'd skip the butyl and just go with some RTV in that case. You can easily remove the delete blanks and fix it if you need to.
 

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Thanks @SilvFx.

Yeah @FJFool I'm still here. I can't rid myself of this forum addiction. If you need a direct link to the pictures, here's the imgur album.

https://imgur.com/a/hocJZ

On the butyl tape, man, that definitely seals it up. In hindsight, that's a "belt and suspenders" solution. It rained on that butyl tape and bolts with the RTV on the threads here in the rainy Pacific Northwest for 2 solid years and not a drop of water inside my truck. However, I since changed my rack again to a Front Runner Slimline II. When I took the old ARB Touring off, that butyl was a bit messy to clean up but it was still pliable, hadn't dried out and was still working fantastically.

For my new rack install this time, I skipped the butyl. Front Runner recommended in their instructions to RTV the bolt threads like I had done before but to put a "ring" of RTV around each hole in the roof. You'll see that there's a gap between the roof metal and the plastic that the bolts screw into. It's that gap you have to seal. So I made a ring of RTV around each white plastic hole.



My new rack has been installed for about 8 months now, during the rainy winter, and still not a drop of water inside. So you can still go butyl or you can do it a bit easier with just some good RTV application around the roof holes and on the bolt threads. I'm sure some people think I overthought all of this but I did not want to have to deal with a wet headliner and taking the rack off again just to fix the seals. Hope that helps some. When you get to a PC where you can see the pics, it'll help.

Actually, reading your question again, I see you are just deleting. It'll be even easier. I'd skip the butyl and just go with some RTV in that case. You can easily remove the delete blanks and fix it if you need to.
I used E6000 on mine, the crap is damn near bulletproof. The tape is a nice solution too but I go as far as possible to seal any point of entry for moisture given the climate I live in.

Damn I always liked the look of your ride bro.
 

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I got a hold of some RTV yesterday. I almost bought some butyl tape, but decided to hold off for the same reasons you mentioned: 1) I'm just doing a delete, and 2) When I do buy a new rack, I want to consider their recommended install instructions first before apply butyl tape.

Thanks for your help!
 

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Nice looking rig. Does anyone know of a cross bar solution that would be adapted to the ARB fit kit #3720100 , think 3 Yakima cross bars? I'm looking to just put kayak and/or ski mounts up there.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Nice looking rig. Does anyone know of a cross bar solution that would be adapted to the ARB fit kit #3720100 , think 3 Yakima cross bars? I'm looking to just put kayak and/or ski mounts up there.
Thanks. Yeah that could work. The fit kit is basically shaped like a 7, so a ~90 degree angle. Whatever crossbar you mount would have to be able to mount to a flat rail. Another thing that you'd be able to do if you just run the fit kit is that you'd be able to use the ARB awning mounts if you have an awning. They just bolt on to the flat rack mount areas.

 

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Hello, I have a technical question about roof rack to Rooftop tent compatability. I can not find this answer anywhere online.
I was hoping to purchase this kind of roof rack and mount a tent to the top. Is that possible?
ARB Alloy Roof Rack Basket 87"x44" with Mesh Floor
Will the full length basket be in the way? Does the tent have to rest on the mesh floor (like on the Touring edition) or can it be supported along the edge of the rails?
Thanks!
Here is the roof rack I was offered by a friend:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/ARB-4900010M-87-X-49-Alloy-Roof-Rack-Basket-for-Toyota-Land-Cruiser-/401164837898
 
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