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2,925 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
To read the original full thread and post questions/comments on this topic, please go to

First off, bigbill25 figured this out. I performed the mod and took pics this past weekend.

Before I begin, My initial plan was to use an "Add-A-Circuit" and wire this into the Fuse Panel, to my suprise a 10A Type A Fuse from Japan is half the size of the ones Sold at an Auto Parts Store. Needless to say I have $20 worth of 18 awg wire and fuses sitting unused.
If you need bigger pics, go to my photo gallery
I took my time doing this, spent about 1.5hrs. I'm sure those of you more car-mod friendly will do this much quicker.


Panel Removal Instructions, 700K Page 4 Fig 1-11 through Page 5 Fig 1-14

Before Install

Step 1 - Remove the Shift nob for 4wd, unscrews to left. Engage emergency break, pop out panel underneath. Put shifter into Neutral.

Step 2 - The entire panel that encompases the cup holders just pops off. Put both front seats all the way back, slide a panel remover in between the seam and pop it off, little pressure needed.

Step 3 - Remove bolt next to shifter and E-Brake, The use the very long extension to remove the bolts on the bottom of the big storage bin/tray, you need to pull out the organizer to see the bolts. Once the 4 Bolts are removed, slide the panel towards the rear and lift it and out via the end near the stereo. You'll need to bend the piece near the E-brake Around the e-Brake while lifting it out. Now that you have the panel free, time to take it to the work shop for Drilling.

Step 4 - Slowly drill a hole for the 12V socket, make sure it is straight and round, any mis-drilling could cause the socket not to lock in place. Run the wires though the hole and push the socket into place.

Step 5 - Now you need to remove the switch plate to tie in the ground and postive wires. IMPORTANT!!!!!Screw the shift knob back onto the metal threads, becareful to put it on straight, plastic threads in the shift nob. This will protect the soft plastic from getting scratched-up on the switch plate panel. (I forgot this step and scrapped the crap out of one of the blank switch covers, luckily it is getting removed for the A-Trac switch)On each side of the plate there is a clip, push in the center with a screw driver and it will unlock, remove the clips. Remove the 2 bolts. Find the ground point.

Attach the ground to the ground point. I losen the bolt (hard to get to) then attached a U-connector to the end of the ground wire, If you don't have one, then snip the end of the ring and bend to make a U then slide it under the bolt and tighten the bolt

Step 6 - Find the 2 wires coming out the of 12V Socket, White w/ Black strip is Negative, the brown w/red strip is postive. Take the wire tap from the 12v kit. Place the factory positive wire into the slot that goes through the wire tap, place the end of the postive wire from the new 12V socket into slot that has a stop in it, Make sure Both wires are centered in the wire tap. Use pliers and squeeze the metal tab into the wire tap, then fold over the plastic clip.

Step 7 - Now that the new 12V socket wiring is attached, Test the outlet to make sure it works. Re-attached the switch plate pannel, then remount the panel with the new 12v socket installed. Now to make sure the new wires do not get in the way of the E-Brake or shifter. Run the wiries along the side and zip-tie them loosly (you want slack so the panels can be moved).

Re-attached the last 2 pannels and you are finished.

2,925 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Re: How to add another 12V Power Outlet

Another Good Outlet Location

FYI - Used the search and found some info on power outlets!

Wanted to add one myself and found very useful information here.
However, did not like (2) details:
1) tapping into the existing outlet gives you (2) outlets that don't work
when the key is off!
2) I did not want to sacrifice the little cubby hole for an outlet
with a plug sticking in it

Chose the console area for the new outlet and ran the wire to the fuse block.
Had to add about 10-12" onto the Radio Shack outlet to get there.

Included dimensions of outlet location in the pictures. Made sure I missed
molded ribs on the back side and missed the shifter. Left extra wire
under the console to make sure it did not catch the shifter. Used a meter
to find live tap points when key was off. Also used a 1 1/8" bit because
the recommended 1 3/32" is an odd size and I had a 1 1/8"! You will
need to file a small keyway for the anti-rotation rib on the outlet.

Drill your hole 3 5/8" from the front edge and .97" up from the bottom.
Note: The .97" dimension is important for (2) reasons:
Drill too high and you're into the radius on the console, drill too low
and you're into the overhang of the lower console piece.

Note: The top side of the first (3) open fuse ports on the bottom row are
hot when the key is off. I marked them with a red sharpie.

Aren't "sticky pads" cool!

Last piece of info:
I disconnected the battery for the project. By doing so you will need
to re-calibrate your compass when you are finished. I find that to calibrate
the compass, you need to drive in a "generous" circle, not a tight circle!


2,925 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Re: How to add another 12V Power Outlet

More Ideas

Rear Outlet

Positive power can be found in the White wire with blue stripe, constant power from sub harness

Map Box

Rear of Console


2,998 Posts
12V POWER OUTLET: Adding another

To read the original full thread and post questions/comments on this topic, please go to

Today I installed a 12V outlet (cig lighter plug) in the FJ. This will have a LOT of pics, so I may break it up into 2 posts, then try to merge them later. This is a VERY detailed thread (some will say too detailed). The reason for this is so even the most inexperienced novice can do this and have complete confidence in what they are doing.

I went to Pep Boys and Radio Shack for the parts and supplies. First, the Mini Add-A-Circuit. This is what will provide power to the outlet:

I also picked up some 12 Ga wire, since the lighter wire will not reach the add-a-circuit wire. I picked up the outlets at Radio Shack.

I got some zip ties (wire ties) to keep the wires out of sight and tucked up safely:

The first thing I did was pull off the fuse box door so I could find a place to put the add-a-circuit:

I unpacked the new amp meter (circuit tester). This one cost me $5 at Harbor Freight. I already got my money's worth out of it.

I took the black (negative) probe and touched it to one of the bolts holding the door to the hinge:

I took the red (positive) probe and placed it into the empty fuse slots until I found a location that showed hot with the key off. Use the top slot for the hot end: Note: The bottom left 3 locations are constant hot (the already-empty slots):

With both the black and red probes touching the above listed locations, the meter should look like this (showing 12 volts without the ignition key on):

Now, take the black (negative) cable off the battery. safety first!

Ok, it's time to disassemble the center console. Start by engaging the parking brake, and lift off the parking brake trim piece:

Now unscrew the shifter handle and place in an area that is out of the way....note: you may want to shift the trans into neutral to avoid scraping the console. I did not, and there was no scraping....I was careful :D :

Pull up on the rear of the center console, and lift it off the FJ in a rearward motion, being careful not to scrape the shifter or brake handle:

So, now your console is out of the FJ:

Find a location that you want to put your outlet. There are a lot of places you can put one, like in the rear storage "bucket" in the center console, in the dash storage box, etc. I chose a place that is exclusive to us 4X2 the tray where your 4X4 shifter would be! This is the hole where the little tray is:

On the bottom of the tray is a little hole area. I used this as my starting pilot for the hole saw. I drilled thru the hole and used the hole saw from the top face of the tray. Here is the tray with the hole cut in it:

With the hard part done locating a place for the outlet and cutting the hole), it's all down hill from here on out. Now, push the outlet into the hole so the wires/prongs are on the underside or inside of the structure you are mounting to....front (top):


Ok, now take one of the add-a-circuits out of the wrapper. Do not put a fuse in it yet. The battery is already disconnected, but this gives you double-safety.

Now, strip one end of the extra wire you bought. Not much, just strip 1/4" of the wire like so:

The red wire on the add-a-circuit already has a crimp connector attached to it. Take the stripped end of the long red wire and slide it into the end of the connector, and crimp the connector like so:

Take the add-a-circuit end and slide it up and into the area of the fuse box, as shown:

Now, plug the add a circuit into one of the bottom left fuse should NOT take effort:

Ok, we are about there. Now, take the black wire from the outlet. On the free (dangling) end, it has a circular connector on it. This end is too small to put where I did, so you will need to cut the end and make it a U connector.

On the left and right side of the shifter is a 10mm bolt. I loosened the left side since that was the seat I was sitting in. Loosen the bolt about 4 turns, just enough to slide the U connector under it.

Tighten the bolt. The ground wire is done.

In the package with the outlet is a little blue wire splicer. Take this out of the wrapper. Slide one end of the red wire from the outlet into it, just past the silver metal splice contact:

Bring the red wire from the add a circuit through the side of the console to the center part where we are working, and use tie wraps to get the wire securely tied out of the way:

Cut the excess wire and place the extra wire out of your way. Slide the end of the add-a-circuit wire into the blue wire splice thingy from the other end, again, just past the silver metal contact point:

Now take a pair of pliers and mash down the metal contact until the top of it is flush with the blue plastic:

Now take the plastic flap and snap it closed. We are almost done!!

Take one of the tie wraps and tie up the excess wire so it doesn't get caught on the shifter or anything. Put a fuse in the add-a-circuit (I used a 10 amp). Now,working in reverse from taking the console apart, put it all back together again. The last thing we'll do is connect the battery cable we took off. Now, with everything connected and put back together, plug in something to test the outlet. If it works, then you have done a good job.

Here is what mine looks like finished:

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