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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys,

I have a question to throw out there. I have a 2014 FJ and it still only has about 5K miles on it if that. My battery appears to have a bad cell already. I can tell it's a bad cell as the Alternator is fine and putting out the right voltage, however, when you go to start the truck the battery just can't crank it over. Once you do get it running (I jump it with one of those hand held battery boosters) and run the vehicle for a bit, if you shut her down and fire it back up with in a few hours, she will start, however, if you leave it say over night, there is only enough power to get about .5-1 crank of the motor before kaputs.

My questions is, is there any chance that the battery would be covered by the dealers bumper-bumper extended 8 year warranty? More importantly, chances are it will not be covered, and therefor I will be buying a new battery. Does the manufacturer really make a difference here? I am asking because the batteries seem to average around $150, high about $240 and low about $75. I really don't have the money right now to be buying a battery, but I don't want to go buy the $75 battery only have have to replace it again soon there after.

I would love to hear your thoughts.

Thanks!

John
 

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Lots of things can kill a battery.... draining it kills batteries quick. Deep cycle batteries survive being drawn down more times than a standard lead acid battery.

My guess is that it will not be covered.

I would put the biggest battery you can afford in it.... but that's because I live in an area where it gets pretty damn cold and need the extra cold cranking amps. Stock batteries (in any vehicle) are based on the very bare minimum that is required to crank over the engine. At -40 you need something with a bit more jam to it.

If you plan on running anything on the battery (winch, lights, fridge, etc.) I would seriously recommend a deep cycle battery with enough CCA's to use as a starting battery. I'm glad I spent the extra money on the blue top Optima and have had it for a number of years now.

:cheers:
 

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Chances are it will be covered, especially if you squeal enough. That said if you need to purchase a battery here is some advice:

I've had an $80 battery in my vehicle for about 3 years now, manufactured locally actually. It has a good warranty, one year free replacement and they will pro-rate it for the next five years. I will recommend making your battery purchase at a local brick and mortar store so warranty work is easy to do. I've had absolutely zero complaints on my batterys performance, even running a fridge overnight multiple times, but reliablilty leaves some to be desired. I had it replaced for free the first year when it started getting weak, and just a week ago I noticed it's replacement was leaking excessive acid out of the top covers. Not sure why. The battery store offered to pro-rate it and get me a new one about half off, but I declined for now because I'm researching getting a higher quality battery, hoping it will last a little longer for what I use it for. Just my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
The good news is that I live in NJ, so it's fairly mild during the winter and even if we get a bad winter, I have not seen it hit below zero around here since I was a kid, so I am thinking that I really don't need a battery with the highest CCA's just for that reason. However, I certainly don't want to go with the lowest CCA's I can find, as I don't always drive it everyday so it can sit for a day or 4 which will let all the oil sit and thicken up making it a little tougher to start.

I once had a battery I got from AAA. The price was around $100 (this was for my old Explorer) but unfortunately, while the battery was a pretty good price, it only lasted 6 months and AAA prorated it still costing me $60 to have it replaced again and I felt pretty duped.

This is why I am asking for your thoughts on this. Do you guys think there is much difference between a no-name battery and a name brand?

As for buying the battery at a local shop for warranty purposes, that's a great idea that I never thought of. We do have a Pep Boys and Advance Auto Parts locally. So that's not a problem.

Just trying to weigh my options to save me some money because I have so many medical bills and others that having to spend any money on anything other then the bare necessities is rather hard for me right now. So I want to make a decision that I can live with that will keep all this in mind.

The only thing that I can think of that could have caused my problem is my amp and subs, however, I have been pretty easy with it compared to when I was younger. Yes, I have 2 12's, but, I never run it on battery only, and I don't have it cranked to the max, maxing my available current. I always keep an eye on the voltage, and even when the base is thumping, my voltage drops are negligible. I may consider putting a cap in, just to help buffer the systems electric. Either way, this would be the first time my sound system could have been what burned out a cell in the battery which tells me that the battery was either defective from the start or, made of some poor materials allowing it to crap out early.

I mean, on a vehicle I bought new, and have only around 5K miles on it, it's not like it gets worked alot.

Anyway, I would love some more thoughts, and I really thank you guys who have answered thus far.

Thanks!

PS - Does anyone know why, even when I have "Remember Me" checked, my session keeps timing out and I seem to have to always log back in each time I reply. Tks!
 

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Sounds like your sound system slowly (or quickly, all a matter of perspective I guess) you battery.

You are likely using more amps than your alternator puts out thus draining your battery (powering your stereo and also powering the FJ). Stop and go traffic while maintaining a low rpm doesn't do your battery any favours.

You may want to look at doing an alternator upgrade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I thought about that. That is why I was thinking about putting a Cap in. When the engine is running, not idling, I know because I tested the system with a Volt/Amp meter, has no problem h andling the sound system. I also always turn it down when in stop and go traffic, 1. for my safety, 2. because I hate pulling up next to people and my truck rattles, so I don't like the idea of doing it to others.

While I could see at the times when the bass is really thumping, it could be putting ungodly strain on things, the thing is, I am not in the truck for more then 2 minutes at a time, and only a couple times a week. So as you can see, I am not really running it much. It's not like I am running the system day in day out for hours at a time. If the alternator can't handle my system then it's pretty poor.

I still don't think that is it though because even if I have my lights on and the system pumping, the lights don't even dim. In my Explorer, my lights would dim down to that of a night light when my system was hitting and I never had to replace that alternator and I ran a system in that truck far more powerful then the one that is in the FJ for over 12 years. Only had to replace that battery once in all that time, and then again, after the replacement battery wound up with a couple bad cells after only 6 months. Then I crashed the Explorer and now have the FJ :) I have been running sound systems in every vehicle I have ever owned for 25 years

If it were anyone else asking about this, I would probably agree that it would be the sound system, and it very well maybe however, I have a hard time with it being the alternator and really think it's strictly something that happened only to the battery.

So, I just want to throw this out there again. Is there really much of a difference between a no name, or name I have never heard of battery vs a name brand like a Duralast, A/C Delco, Interstate etc?
 

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You don't have any evidence that your problem is caused by a defective battery. Actually, the OEM Panasonic battery is an extremely high quality battery and I think its pretty unlikely that the battery (assuming that it is the original Panasonic) or the alternator are bad. I think it's far more likely that you have a parasitic draw related to aftermarket electrical accessories that is discharging the battery.

You need to make some voltage measurements at the battery terminals with the engine not running, running at idle speed, running at 2K RPM, and running at idle and 2K RPM with your audio system at full load.

Additionally, with the engine not running, you need to measure the parasitic current draw to make sure that there is not something that is continuously drawing current with the ignition off.

Otherwise you are just guessing and blindly replacing parts ...

(Now if this has been going on for months, completely discharging your battery every night and then using an external battery to start the engine, you may have fatally injured your battery. Starting batteries are not designed for "deep discharge" service.)
 

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I had the same or very similar issue. My 2014 has 6k miles. It wouldn't start but the battery voltage was good, as high as 13.2 and the alternator showing 14.7 when running. I, like you assumed a bad cell, especially as it mysteriously dropped right down last Christmas to 3V in 2 Days, thought it was toast then but never did find the cause nor did it ever do it again (came back 100% after 27hrs on a Cetek charger)..

I replaced the battery since it would start fine off the aux so that to me pretty much eliminated wiring etc. Since fitting the new battery (Odyssey 34R PC1500) it has been better than ever on the OE.

I know how good the Panasonic OE is right back to 1993 on my old LC but two '14s doing the same... maybe there was a bad batch??
 

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Hey Guys,

I have a question to throw out there. I have a 2014 FJ and it still only has about 5K miles on it if that. My battery appears to have a bad cell already. I can tell it's a bad cell ...
If it was a bad cell, you could measure this easily by checking the specific gravity of each cell's fluid. A basic hydrometer is only a few dollars. Even if you find some variance between the cells, it may come back with a proper charging.

I'd recommend disconnecting the battery, charge it thoroughly with a C-Tek charger or equivalent, then checking the parasitic current of the vehicle when the key is off. Perhaps one of your amplifiers, or other things, is drawing the battery down when not in use.
 

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OP,
IMHO, I would talk to your dealer's service dept. Ask them if the warranty will cover the battery. A couple of months ago I had a lengthy discussion with an engineer from Odyssey batteries. Short trips will not fully charge a battery and will affect it's health. He suggested fully charging the battery with the appropriate charger at least once a month on all vehicles. With that said, I recommend checking the electrolyte level of all cells and put a charger on the battery for a complete charge cycle.... Then re-evaluate the condition of your battery... Good Luck!!!

Cheers
 

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My questions is, is there any chance that the battery would be covered by the dealers bumper-bumper extended 8 year warranty? More importantly, chances are it will not be covered, and therefor I will be buying a new battery. Does the manufacturer really make a difference here?
My dealer does cover batteries under warranty - full replacement in the first 2 years, 50% in year 3 then I don't know what happens. When mine failed (they last on average <18 months here because of the heat & shaking offroad) I used a moble service to replace the battery and took the receipt to the dealer and they just reimbursed me, but YMMV. Best to pay them a visit and ask.
 

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If your battery is in under warranty period, then must claim for warranty. Battery dealer replace it otherwise gives discount on new battery purchase. Now battery warranty is covered by manufacturer. Dealers and shopkeepers doesn't have any matter with warranty claim.
 
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