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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone

I have a Revtek lift with 33x12.5 tires. I have bought Bushwaker FF that made the gap between the tires and the fender looks awful.
I'm planing to make those mods in the future and need your advise:
1- Tires: 35x12.5x16 for DD ; 35x14.5x16 for offroad ( mainly for snow offroading)
2- Suspension lift(front) : Fox/Walker Evans/ Icon non reservoir 2.5 coil overs with UCA
3- Suspension lift (rear): All pro springs + Fox/Icon shocks. Don't know if I have to use the 3.5 or 2.5 springs and what would be the difference or advantages.
4- Wheel spacers: I would like them to be the least possible in width, so what offset should I have for the wheels. Will I be able to run those 14.5 wide tires ( knowing that they will be deflated )?
5- ARB front locker
6- Re gearing at 4.56
7- Front skid plate and rock sliders.
By the time I do all these mods, if I'm not bankrupt I'll sure want to add Aluminess front and rear bumper and a Warn 9.0RC or 9.5XP with synthetic rope.

Any advise will be much appreciated :bigthumb:
 

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If you plan on using it offroad, you aren't going to get full wheel travel out of either of those tire options, you'll get interference in various areas of the wheel well. 3.5 springs (your vehicle is physically taller), giving you a bit more vertical room for the tire. You are going to seriously have to play with the offset and some decent size spacers to fit a 14.5" wide tire....look for something with a very low offset.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
even at 5 to 8 psi you think I'll still have problems?
what about 2.5 springs + bumpstop/spacer, is it better than 3.5" springs? ( offroad and on road drivability )
 

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even at 5 to 8 psi you think I'll still have problems?
what about 2.5 springs + bumpstop/spacer, is it better than 3.5" springs? ( offroad and on road drivability )
1.5" or 2" spacer will give you more height...doesn't do anything for width tho.

Possibly, lot of factors to toss in there (backspacing, true tire size, tire stiffness, etc.). Regardless a 35"x14.5" wheel is a lot for the FJ and some custom fabrication might be needed (along with some decent backspacing and probably spacers).

35x14.5" wheelss are wide.....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
1.5" or 2" spacer will give you more height...doesn't do anything for width tho.

Possibly, lot of factors to toss in there (backspacing, true tire size, tire stiffness, etc.). Regardless a 35"x14.5" wheel is a lot for the FJ and some custom fabrication might be needed (along with some decent backspacing and probably spacers).

35x14.5" wheelss are wide.....
I know they're wide, but I do need them for maximum flotation on snow. Besides, 14.5" bias are even lighter than 12.5 radial, and will give me some advantages in snow... Not sure, but I think they'll work the suspension almost as much as a heavier 12.5" tire
 

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35's are a challenge at normal width. Adding the extra inches wide will be difficult to overcome. Changes in steering geometry will make for some interesting places to rub.
I still have challenges at normal width. I am running 3" lift and a 1 inch body lift with 16x8 4.5 backspace. I put the spydertrax 1.25'" spacers on, to make it look more full with bushwackers. I've found that removing the spydertrax, for wheeling, was my best bet, so far. I still rub without the spacers. It's going to take a little more messing around with, to make them work without any rub. The difference in tires, has showed me different behavior
. The General Grabbers, seem to be larger. That's when my rub got worse.
I am still trying to find the exact problem .
Pushing the tires out with spacers, or negative backspace gives you a larger arc, which creates a whole new set of rubbing problems .
 

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Don's last comment there is exactly what I'm refering too. Spacers and backspacing offers a solution, but can create other problems. Most have some issue with a 35x12.5" wheel as is...hence why you'll likely need to do some custom fabrication to get it to work out.

I'm in a simlar boat right now as I'll be running a 4-3/4" B/S version of Don's wheel with a 12.5" wide tire with sidebittters. I'm quite concerned I'll be touching off on the spindle as I only have 1/4" clearance now as it is with 285/70/17's.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
35's are a challenge at normal width. Adding the extra inches wide will be difficult to overcome. Changes in steering geometry will make for some interesting places to rub.
I still have challenges at normal width. I am running 3" lift and a 1 inch body lift with 16x8 4.5 backspace. I put the spydertrax 1.25'" spacers on, to make it look more full with bushwackers. I've found that removing the spydertrax, for wheeling, was my best bet, so far. I still rub without the spacers. It's going to take a little more messing around with, to make them work without any rub. The difference in tires, has showed me different behavior
. The General Grabbers, seem to be larger. That's when my rub got worse.
I am still trying to find the exact problem .
Pushing the tires out with spacers, or negative backspace gives you a larger arc, which creates a whole new set of rubbing problems .
what is exactely that you don't like in wheel spacers when wheeling? I'm interested to know as this is when I'll be needing them mostely to fit larger tires.
If 35x14.5" are such a headach, I think I'll stick with my 33x12.5" and spare money on re-gearing, new tires and wheels. I don't see much advantages for a 35" with same width other than a small benefit in ground clearance. What hurts most is the look:mecry:
I would still need your advise guys on something that realy works ( I don't mind doing some internal body shop, cuting and welding to get a good result )
 

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These guys have given you sound advise.

I run a 35 x 10.50 x 16 and can stuff the rear to the factory bump stop with minimal rubbing in the fender well. The front will never "flex" well due to the spring rate needed in order to get the "lift". Softer springs flex better but lower the front, with enough spring rate to raise the front to be "level", the rate won't allow for full compression to the factory bump stops.

The bottom line is that the front end geometry and space constraints limit using a tire with much more than a 12.50. This is all assuming you want to wheel your rig hard and not have any other issues. Can one "fit" (my definition of fit is: such that there is no rubbing at full compression, wheel lock to wheel lock) a tire larger than that, of course but the word fit seems to be a definition that is quite variable. Either of your tires would fit without issue if you follow sbechtold's build (I'm sure a search will find his build thread), but that is a horse of another color.

Hope this helps...
 

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what is exactely that you don't like in wheel spacers when wheeling? I'm interested to know as this is when I'll be needing them mostely to fit larger tires.
If 35x14.5" are such a headach, I think I'll stick with my 33x12.5" and spare money on re-gearing, new tires and wheels. I don't see much advantages for a 35" with same width other than a small benefit in ground clearance. What hurts most is the look:mecry:
I would still need your advise guys on something that realy works ( I don't mind doing some internal body shop, cuting and welding to get a good result )
Referring to my last post . It's the arc. Since I have createdd a larger arc, my rubbing got worse near the body mount. Not that my body mount isn't already chopped back pretty far already, but I may need to do more surgery to make it not rub. In addition I will be clearncing the inner fender above the body mount . If you want to play at the edge. Be ready to make some serious adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here is a good article regarding tire size / width consideration for off road:

Expeditions West: Tire Selection for Expedition Travel

I've always been a proponent of tall and skinny vs wide tires.

A 34" tire may be a good compromise
In my case I need the wide ones for flotation. 80% of my wheeling is in winter on all kind of snow where airing down and width of tires are very important. We do a lot of challenges with friends and new comers, and although tall tires are important for a bid more clearance, it's always the lightest truck with widest tires that sets himself apart.

I wanna thank all of you guys, and I think I'll go with a 35x12.5 Hankook RF10 Dynapro for DD and 33x13.5 Pitbull Rocker for wheeling(lighter and wider).
Suspension front: Icon coil over 2.5 extra travel with Allpro UCA
Suspension rear: Fox 2.5 springs ; fox shoks + allpro bumpstop
 

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I'll illustrate my issue when I stuff the rear tire. I currently run the General Grabber 315/75/16 with 2.5" spacers to accommodate my RC 6" lift because I wanted to keep my TRD wheels. I had to do a big body mount chop in the front and will need to do some work here in the rear. My mud flaps are removed. I agree with the previous posters, but in the end get what you want while understanding what you may have to deal with in cost, fabrication, or modification.

 

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Discussion Starter #14
35's are a challenge at normal width. Adding the extra inches wide will be difficult to overcome. Changes in steering geometry will make for some interesting places to rub.
I still have challenges at normal width. I am running 3" lift and a 1 inch body lift with 16x8 4.5 backspace. I put the spydertrax 1.25'" spacers on, to make it look more full with bushwackers. I've found that removing the spydertrax, for wheeling, was my best bet, so far. I still rub without the spacers. It's going to take a little more messing around with, to make them work without any rub. The difference in tires, has showed me different behavior
. The General Grabbers, seem to be larger. That's when my rub got worse.
I am still trying to find the exact problem .
Pushing the tires out with spacers, or negative backspace gives you a larger arc, which creates a whole new set of rubbing problems .
Could you please tell me your experience with wheel spacers and why is it better not to have them while wheeling.
 

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what is exactely that you don't like in wheel spacers when wheeling? I'm interested to know as this is when I'll be needing them mostely to fit larger tires.
If 35x14.5" are such a headach, I think I'll stick with my 33x12.5" and spare money on re-gearing, new tires and wheels. I don't see much advantages for a 35" with same width other than a small benefit in ground clearance. What hurts most is the look:mecry:
I would still need your advise guys on something that realy works ( I don't mind doing some internal body shop, cuting and welding to get a good result )
Referring to my last post . It's the arc. Since I have createdd a larger arc, my rubbing got worse near the body mount. Not that my body mount isn't already chopped back pretty far already, but I may need to do more surgery to make it not rub. In addition I will be clearncing the inner fender above the body mount . If you want to play at the edge. Be ready to make some serious adjustments.
Could you please tell me your experience with wheel spacers and why is it better not to have them while wheeling.
I thought I had answered this in the previous replies. Maybe further explanation is required
It's not that I don't like wheeling with spacers, it's the clearance issues .
Larger arc= more rubbing. At full stuff, I have found new areas to rub. Even into the body area, above the body mount. when I know I have to wheel hard, I remove them to have less problems with rub. At least until I Isolate the exact problem. The only other drawback is track width. Sometimes trails get tight , less track width is always better in those situations . I think your turning radius suffers a little bit too. I don't know this for sure, but it seems that way .
 

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In my case I need the wide ones for flotation. 80% of my wheeling is in winter on all kind of snow where airing down and width of tires are very important. We do a lot of challenges with friends and new comers, and although tall tires are important for a bid more clearance, it's always the lightest truck with widest tires that sets himself apart.

I wanna thank all of you guys, and I think I'll go with a 35x12.5 Hankook RF10 Dynapro for DD and 33x13.5 Pitbull Rocker for wheeling(lighter and wider).
Suspension front: Icon coil over 2.5 extra travel with Allpro UCA
Suspension rear: Fox 2.5 springs ; fox shoks + allpro bumpstop
From what I've seen on the forum running 35s for daily driver and no re-gear may not be the best idea. I've never done it so I'm far from an expert, but from what I've read you won't be able to use cruise control on the highway anymore, and even small grades will downshift you to 4th gear. Even with my 33s I get frustrated on the highway with all the downshifting. I think running 4.11 gears would be perfect for 33s, but it's not worth the money to just go from 3.73 to 4.11. If you do most of your driving around the city this may not be an issue, but if highway is where you spend most of your time I think you'll be hurting with 35s and no re-gear. Just my 2 cents.
 
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