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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So yes I know, if I want amazing MPG I should go get a yaris but...
I have been driving 4runners and older toyota pickups since I was 14, and despite the fact that at 6'2" and 210lbs I dont like the cramped and tight feel of the small cars so!
I am not looking to get crazy mpg just a little better when I go buy my 2011 FJ 2wd

Here is what I plan to do,
1st- find one that has at least 5000-10000 miles but no more or less. Seems weird but will be explained later.
2nd- When I buy it run the tank as close to E as possible, (which means 50-60 miles more then the light coming on from what I have read) then switch to premium(more cause I want to :lol: )
3rd- switch to full syn in everything! Engine, diff, etc.
4th- JBA headers, stock cats welded back on, trd exhaust, trd intake!
5th- go get a custom Carbon fiber hood made

and after that I am not sure...any thoughts?

Oh and before I forget, in a 2WD is there anything besides the engine and diff that I should switch to synthetic?

Thanks to all who can help! :bigthumb:
 

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remove spare tire .. roof rack .... back door made out of carbon fiber ....
put smaller tires .... make rig more aerodynamic (front grill,wings,bumper,est)......
lower rig more to ground and install carbon fiber under entire car....
 

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Cut weight from FJ where ever you can. On trips, pack light.

Use narrow low rolling resistance tires filled towards the high pressure side. Lighter wheel & tire weight improve mileage. Smaller contact patch lowers friction loss (also ability to stop, turn, and climb so you must balance desire for better mpg with these desired safety functions).

Accelerate slowly, drive slowly (go the speed limit, not 5-10 mph over), anticipate stops and then coast toward the stop so you do not have to apply brakes much to complete the stop. NOTE: People behind you will not like this approach, but they are not paying for your fuel.
:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
basically everything that yuryz said, plus... remove radiator cap, replace everything else with a toyota yaris, then retighten radiator cap.
haha:lol:

but i am noy trying to get 36mpg...just the claimed 22mpg or so...
i want to keep the rear hatch as is just because, unless i have $3k+ laying around then i will have a custom on with a sub hooked in+a bigger back window so i can see better!
And I am gonna strip the roof rack off, and if I can find a light weight bumper that has a more angled skid plate on the front to help direct air and cut threw the wind better I will swap that as well...

But i was thinking 18's with some M/T's, they last longer and make it look better to me. I can find real nice light weight rims, but whats a good solid MT tire to go with?
Toyo, Yokohama, Goodyear?
 

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Probably the best advice would be to leave everything alone (IE no mods).

Do not exceed 65 mph

Take a long time getting up to that speed.

Doc
 

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HMMMM...Wasn't April Fools Day yesterday?
 

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So yes I know, if I want amazing MPG I should go get a yaris but...
I have been driving 4runners and older toyota pickups since I was 14, and despite the fact that at 6'2" and 210lbs I dont like the cramped and tight feel of the small cars so!
I am not looking to get crazy mpg just a little better when I go buy my 2011 FJ 2wd

Here is what I plan to do,
1st- find one that has at least 5000-10000 miles but no more or less. Seems weird but will be explained later.
2nd- When I buy it run the tank as close to E as possible, (which means 50-60 miles more then the light coming on from what I have read) then switch to premium(more cause I want to :lol: )
3rd- switch to full syn in everything! Engine, diff, etc.
4th- JBA headers, stock cats welded back on, trd exhaust, trd intake!
5th- go get a custom Carbon fiber hood made

and after that I am not sure...any thoughts?

Oh and before I forget, in a 2WD is there anything besides the engine and diff that I should switch to synthetic?

Thanks to all who can help! :bigthumb:
You really don't need to do anything you mention above! I hope the MPG that your looking for is the highway and not in the city. I drive my 08 4x4 auto all stock FJ 60 mile round trip daily and usually average about 21mpg. I do drive at the speed limit and my trip is 90% is at highway speed, 65mph around here. As you start doing more research on this board an note when most of the FJ on here start adding weight and height to your FJ that is when MPG starts decreasing, example steel bumpers, lift kits, and larger tires.
 

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My 2007 was one of the original tire recalls and I had some Yokohama's AT/S installed. When I did I noticed a 1-1.5 MPFG loss. It only got back to the original values once the Yoke's were pretty much worn out. Then last week I read a tire thing that mentioned the Dunlops used as OEM were shallow tread to give lower rolling resistance and better MPG. They are only rated 300 for tread wear whereas the "normal" Dunlop AT20's are rated 500 for wear. So tires are very important.
Next I would avoid using cruise control if there are any hills. It's too aggressive and will burn more fuel. It's OK to use it in the flats. Don't worry about loosing a few miles per hour climbing hills it's better than pushing it to maintain speed.
Accelerating slowly is good (keep it below 2000RPM) but almost as important is to try to use the brakes as little as possible. Everytime you use the brakes you convert all the momentum you gained by burning gas to heat in the brakes so get off the gas much earlier and let it coast down as much as possible before braking.
When Idling, keep it in gear. Don't shift into neutral because it will rev higher and burn more fuel.
If you have a roof rack, remove the cross bars until you really need them.
Tailgate as much as possible on the highway. Choose a semi to do it with. That way you don't have to be too close to get the benefit plus they don't get as nervouse as smaller vehicles. In addition, you can always stop faster than them but will stinck of diesel when you get home.
If you do these you will easily approach or match the fuel mileage ratings for highway driving unless weather conditions are factors like wind or rain.
 

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Simple.

Take THIS


and strap it to the front of THIS

:lol:
 

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I run a mixture of city/highway putting about 60 mile per day driving to work. My '08 was getting about 19.5mpg until I put the lift and bumper on then I dropped 3mpg to 16.5 on average.

My 2011 stock was only getting a about 17.5mpg which surprised me. After putting a lift and 285's on, I am now on average about 15mpg. Have to say I was expecting better mileage with this "better" engine, but as you mentioned this is not a vehicle that gets great mileage. My suggestion is to keep stock or near stock. And save your money on the carbon fiber hood. With a truck that is this heavy, loosing a few lbs isn't going to help with the mileage that much and isn't really worth the cost. (think about it, $500 for a hood that increases mileage by say 0.2mpg isn't really noticeable nor worth the cost compared to a lite foot and $500 in gas - IMO). :cheers:
 

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Probably the best advice would be to leave everything alone (IE no mods).

Do not exceed 65 mph

Take a long time getting up to that speed.

Doc
Actually I experiment with my rig and I notice with speed under 55 it get best mileage in town .... (if use cruise control on highway its get even better)
 

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I have heard many times of getting a Scanguage II and using the realtime mpg function. No it won't save you fuel per se but having that number in front of you can certainly teach you to have a lighter foot. The Ultraguage will do the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Very good stuff,

BTW-yea I only expect to get the 22mpg on the freeway. When I buy the FJC I will live in texas and 95%+ from mon-fri will be freeway.

Just trying to see if mabey there was something that could help, but the CF hood is more for looks then anything:rocker: Just want mine to look different...

@LaFJDude-was your's a 4x4 or 4x2? Also did you have any other mods like CAI, exhaust, etc?

@Apexbasher-I might actually do that!:rofl:

@csitracadie-Do you know which yoko's were on it? I was hoping for the geolander mt's...but I have only ever ran toyo mt's so...
 

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keep the rpm under 2k. It seems to work pretty well for me, although when I head for the mountains I run about 3k.

Best run I had was 23mpg and I was traveling about 55 on back roads most of the time.
second best run was 19mpg but I was running in the foot hills and running between 65 and 70. RPM was right around 2k.

Mike
 

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@LaFJDude-was your's a 4x4 or 4x2? Also did you have any other mods like CAI, exhaust, etc?
4x4 for both my '08 and my new '11.

Estimated mileage of 17 city and 21 hwy per sticker. Performance wise, she is all stock. I had thought about a CAI on my '08, but there is a lot of debate about whether or not they actually work since they don't really use cold air. A snorkel is the closest thing to a true CAI, but I don't really like the look of them.

She's about a month old and I have driven 1900 miles. I also have been checking my mileage on each fill-up. Only had the lift/tires on for a week, but had my worst mileage after at around 15mpg.

I haven't researched it much, but from what I have seen, I am not sure some of the performance mods will fit the 2011. From my understanding, the supercharger, for example, was only for the '09 and below. It does not fit the new engine nor from what I saw are there plans for one that does. Also saw a post about the intake being in a different location and concerns about the snorkel fit. Like I said, I have only briefly read post but not done in-depth research.

I used premium gas last time to see if that helps and will be switching to syn at the first oil change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Yea I am hope'n that syn will help a little but I really want a TRD intake, and exhaust just to have that extra sound and such but I am not expecting a crazy amount of performance from them if any.

I am hope'n that with just mabey a 1"-2" It wont effect it much, I wanted to get the upgraded shocks from toyota as well and just want to clear 275/70R18 tires at most.
 

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I to am thinking this is an April Fool's thread.

If your serious about putting MT's on, then your not serious about getting better miles per gallon. MT's have a more aggressive tread that creates more rolling friction and hurts your mpg's. And, if you go to a larger than stock size then you are hitting your mpg numbers with a second negative strike since it will take more throttle opening to move the larger, heavier tires/wheels. If your looking for economy, then headers will likely hurt your low rpm torque as well, and low rpm is where you want to stay if you want to travel more miles per gallon.

DEWFPO
 
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