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Would like to try and help out but I left my crystal ball at home 500 mile away, can you give a hint of what your question is.
 

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Or maybe turn the key ALL the way. Usually that fixes the problem.
LoL. I have had my wife go start my car for me and walked out to a well lit dash only to see she hadn't started it. Quite scary

Louisana Land Krewesers
 

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LoL. I have had my wife go start my car for me and walked out to a well lit dash only to see she hadn't started it. Quite scary

Louisana Land Krewesers


My girl:

1. Thinks my FJ is a Hummer
2. Tried starting my car with the key from her Saturn (and got pissed at me cause it didnt work)
3. Does not understand "why I play with the shifter so much when I drive my automatic"(...i have a 6MT)
4.Is hot as hell (justifies the before mentioned :rofl:)
 

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Looks like in the picture the rpms are around idle speed so maybe it is running with all those warnings on. Could be a big problem.
 

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Tachometer reads like the engine is running. Voltage gauge is WAY low so test the battery and alternator and see which is bad. PM me your address so I can send you my bill.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ty for your replies guys, It was a bad ALT "as I and my mechanic think", got ALT, battery and the belt replaced, went well the second day, charging at 13.7 volts on the 3rd day I noticed the volts dropped to 12v, removed the -ve clamp from the battery, the engine went off "the battery lamp on the dash is off", tried to check the wires and cables, look fine to me, still digging for whats going on!
any thoughts will help so much..
 

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ty for your replies guys, It was a bad ALT "as I and my mechanic think", got ALT, battery and the belt replaced, went well the second day, charging at 13.7 volts on the 3rd day I noticed the volts dropped to 12v, removed the -ve clamp from the battery, the engine went off "the battery lamp on the dash is off", tried to check the wires and cables, look fine to me, still digging for whats going on!
any thoughts will help so much..
It's too late here but maybe someone will see this and save themselves a lot of grief in the future.

NEVER pull the neg clamp while a modern fuel injected, computer controlled, CAN bus car is running. I know it's an "old school" trick to check the Alt but it's a no, no for new cars. Hope there was no damage done....

YMMV RON
 
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Yeah it is good to remove the neg battery cable when the truck is OFF...let it sit a while and see if it "clears" the lights. Works sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Update:

It appeared the cause was bad connections, the +ve copper terminal at the fuse box had some scales on it, so I removed the 10mm bolt holding it, used a sandpaper to clean it properly, now the new ALT is charging at 13.7v constantly, now, I'm wondering if this was the problem from the beginning, and not a bad ALT at all...
The mechanic did this to check on my ALT when I 1st came: removed the -ve terminal then the engine went off, also while engine running he took a wrench put it next to the pulley of the ALT, no magnetic effect at all, now after cleaning that terminal there is a strong magnetic effect at that pulley, now I'm guessing that my old ALT is still working...
 
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