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Did you guys rotate or remove your tires several times before they broke? Are you using the same stock wheels and lug nuts?

The only thing I can think of... is the wheel wasn't installed correctly and the hub was rubbing on the bolt. I know I have to always recenter my hub sometimes before putting my wheel back on.

Of course there are manufacturer defects.... just seems odd with so many of us not having any issues at all.
This was the first time I had removed the wheels on mine. They are the stock wheels and stock lug nuts. When I put the wheel back on I tightened all the nuts by hand before putting any torque on them at all so it definately wasnt an alignment issue.

Like I said before, from what I could see the other 5 studs looked perfectly fine. The one that broke however, was visibly thinner at the back of the stud where it broke, and on the thinner part was discolored black as opposed to silver like the rest of the studs in the hub.

Just to put size into perspective I just measured the broken stud, and a replacement stud. On the replacement, measured from the point of the thread I got .467" in diameter the entire length of the stud. On the broken stud, measuring from the point of the thread .467" (.25" from the tip of the stud), .437" (.25" from the stopping point of the threads). That's almost .030" of deviation in diameter throughout the length of the stud.
 

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This was the first time I had removed the wheels on mine. They are the stock wheels and stock lug nuts. When I put the wheel back on I tightened all the nuts by hand before putting any torque on them at all so it definately wasnt an alignment issue.

Like I said before, from what I could see the other 5 studs looked perfectly fine. The one that broke however, was visibly thinner at the back of the stud where it broke, and on the thinner part was discolored black as opposed to silver like the rest of the studs in the hub.

Just to put size into perspective I just measured the broken stud, and a replacement stud. On the replacement, measured from the point of the thread I got .467" in diameter the entire length of the stud. On the broken stud, measuring from the point of the thread .467" (.25" from the tip of the stud), .437" (.25" from the stopping point of the threads). That's almost .030" of deviation in diameter throughout the length of the stud.

I guess that totally dismissed my crazy theory. :rofl:
 

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One of my responsibilities when I first started working (i.e. 1976.. LOL)in engineering (university research) was the tensile lab. We had great tensile machines that that did just that (pull samples a part) to the tune of several thousand per class/semester. All it takes is a neck of a few thousands to propagate a clean neck/break exactly where it's predicted. You design a bolt/pin/sample for a given load and then machine a slight neck. For a hardened bolt to neck (stretch) it has to be too ductile and/or see excessive load. I would say that the lugs that failed in the fashion shown here were alloyed/hardened improperly and necked/stretched at the factory. Cheers.. Ron

PS: Don't hammer the broken studs out of the hub/rotor, it'll warp. Use a press instead..
 

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Agree. I was a Mechanical Engineering major - 1980.


One of my responsibilities when I first started working (i.e. 1976.. LOL)in engineering (university research) was the tensile lab. We had great tensile machines that that did just that (pull samples a part) to the tune of several thousand per class/semester. All it takes is a neck of a few thousands to propagate a clean neck/break exactly where it's predicted. You design a bolt/pin/sample for a given load and then machine a slight neck. For a hardened bolt to neck (stretch) it has to be too ductile and/or see excessive load. I would say that the lugs that failed in the fashion shown here were alloyed/hardened improperly and necked/stretched at the factory. Cheers.. Ron

PS: Don't hammer the broken studs out of the hub/rotor, it'll warp. Use a press instead..
 

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I have changed quite a few studs out and i always used the closed end of a combination wrench and a cheap replacement lug. Good luck. Harbor freight has cheap punch sets to hit out the old ones if you dont have access to a press.
 

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Wow... I can't believe this issue is still unresolved! Take a look at my experience regarding this matter that I posted on 1/11/2007!

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/problems-dealer-service/18460-careful-when-changing-flat-2.html

At 92 miles on the odometer, which was the day after I purchased the truck, I decided to check the wheel torque using a recently calibrated 1/2" snap-on torque wrench. The wrench was set to the factory specified 85 ft.lbs. The lug nuts on the first wheel were all loose... they all turned very easily so I backed off the wrench to 50 ft.lbs. I went through all 6 of them using a star pattern to evenly torque them. At 50 ft.lbs., they really felt like they took much longer than it should have to achieve that spec. Once torqued to 50 ft.lbs., I set the tq. wrench to 65 ft.lbs. and again, did the good 'ol star pattern for even torque. Once 65 ft.lbs. was achieved, the wrench was set to 85 ft.lbs. and again, the good 'ol star pattern was used to evenly torque the lug nuts to spec. Having worked in a high-end automotive shop for 8 years, something definitely did not feel right. My thought was that perhaps the studs were not fully seated and that they were still drawing up onto the axle flange as I was tightening them... hence requiring so many more turns to achieve the torque spec.

I moved on to the other wheels and they were ALL loose as well. The previously mentioned procedure was used to torque the wheels. On the 4th wheel, the very last stud broke just as I was doing the final torque sequence to 85 ft.lbs.

At that moment, I realized that there was a serious issue with the studs. I went back to the first wheel and loosened up the nuts and retorqued them. At only 65 ft.lbs., two more studs broke!

So... now what? The time was about 4:30pm, and what should have been a simple procedure to check the wheel torque became a nightmare! I needed the FJ to go to work the following morning and I knew that it was way too late to go grab a rental car. Driving the FJ knowing that this serious safety problem existed was not an option. I could have the FJ towed to the dealer and have them fix it under warranty, but my fear was that they'd only replace the broken studs rather than replacing the entire set of the damaged/fatigued studs.

I immediately got on the phone and called several local Toyota dealers. Between three dealerships, I was able to locate 24 wheel studs. A good mechanic buddy and I hit up the dealers and got the studs in our posession.

Three hours of bustin' ass later, all 24 studs were replaced with brand new ones! When we torqued the wheels, they torqued up just the way they should have in the first place. 85 ft.lbs. came up almost right away... unlike the originals that kept turning and turning.

So, having replaced all studs definitely brought peace of mind... knowing that the wheels were not going to fall off, and that the R/R of the studs were done properly.

The following day, I spoke to the fleet manager whom I had dealt with to purchase the truck. He was very helpful and was very eager to help. I explained to him the situation with the wheel studs and told him what had to be done to remedy the problem. I asked him if it was part of PDI (pre-delivery inspection) to check wheel torques before letting a customer drive off with a new vehicle... turns out that checking wheel torque is not part of PDI! I supposed the factory is responsible for the final wheel torque. When he asked me what I wanted, I told him that I wanted Toyota to make sure this never happened again because lives are at stake with this type of fault. Other than that, I just wanted to be reimbursed for the cost of the wheel studs.

This problem that I had with my FJ may have been an isolated incident... but it has been brought up to Toyota and they are aware of what I had to deal with. It does worry me every time I hear of wheel stud issues on these FJ's... whether they're too tight, too loose, or breaking during a spare tire change.

As for why the original wheel studs were defective/fatigued, I will never know the answer to that. My guess would be that there may have been a bad batch of studs from their supplier, or someone overtorqued and stretched the hell out of them for whatever reason.

I will be filling out the 'survey' from Toyota soon, you know, the one that the they want 100% on? Honestly, the service from the fleet manager was outstanding, but I will be sure to remind them again in writing of what I had to go through.
 

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I had a wheel stud break today. It started when I found out that the dealer forgot to put my wheel lock key back in the fj after the service. It is also my fault for not before I left. Anyway, I went to Discount Tire to have the wheel locks removed. It turns out the dealer really over-tightened the lugs. I could stand on the tire iron and it wouldn't budge. I weigh 230 lbs. So when they removed one of the locks they found out that the stud was broken. While I was driving home, the lug must have fallen into the rotor because it started making a really bad grinding sound. It got to the point where it was really loud and I don't want to drive it because I have a feeling it will do a lot of damage to something. Has anybody else had this problem and can I fix it on my own or should I have it towed to the dealer tomorrow? Thanks
 

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I had a wheel stud break today. It started when I found out that the dealer forgot to put my wheel lock key back in the fj after the service. It is also my fault for not before I left. Anyway, I went to Discount Tire to have the wheel locks removed. It turns out the dealer really over-tightened the lugs. I could stand on the tire iron and it wouldn't budge. I weigh 230 lbs. So when they removed one of the locks they found out that the stud was broken. While I was driving home, the lug must have fallen into the rotor because it started making a really bad grinding sound. It got to the point where it was really loud and I don't want to drive it because I have a feeling it will do a lot of damage to something. Has anybody else had this problem and can I fix it on my own or should I have it towed to the dealer tomorrow? Thanks
You can fix it, but if it is truly the dealer's fault and you have a little free time then they should be the one to do the deed. The hardest part for me was freeing the seized rotor.
 

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just broke 2 wheel studs on my 2010. WTF! they didnt feel right when tightening them, just like a couple others posted. kept turning at 85ft lbs, i knew something was weird right away. never had a stud break in my life, and i used to put them on tight before i knew any better. these have to be defective. i have the butthole pucker going on when driving this thing now. is there some stronger studs to replace them with? not all that impressed with toyota at the moment!
 

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I have a 2010 4Runner Trail Edition so I'm on the 4Runner 5th Generation forum alot . There's alot of people over there complaining about lugs snapping off when rotating their tires the first time on their 2010's .
 

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I recently picked up an '07, retorqued all the lugs to 85 a few nights ago...had no idea about this problem with the studs. No, nothing broke...but seeing as how it's happening to the 2010's as well, I guess anything's possible.

Now, the broken spare tire stud that I still can't cut/grind/hammer/tear out of the bracket...that's a whole other story.:flame:
 

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The factory repair manual for the 2010 4Runner that I have states .......
FRONT WHEEL
Torque: 103 N·m (1050 kgf ·cm, 76ft·lbf )
REAR WHEEL
Torque: 112 N·m (1142 kgf ·cm, 83f t·lbf )

This is straight out of the Toyota repair manual from Toyota TIS.
Should be the same for the FJ's .
Anybody have the repair manual for the FJ to clarify?
 

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The factory repair manual for the 2010 4Runner that I have states .......
FRONT WHEEL
Torque: 103 N·m (1050 kgf ·cm, 76ft·lbf )
REAR WHEEL
Torque: 112 N·m (1142 kgf ·cm, 83f t·lbf )

This is straight out of the Toyota repair manual from Toyota TIS.
Should be the same for the FJ's .
Anybody have the repair manual for the FJ to clarify?
Front and rear wheel:

Torque: 112 N*m (1137 kgf*cm, 82ft*lbf )
 

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If you guys are breaking wheel studs, you are doing something wrong....Why does everyone think its a faulty part, when THEY break something. you obviously have NO idea how to use a tq wrench, OR, the tq. wrench is junk.

its not rocket science
 

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just broke 2 wheel studs on my 2010. WTF! they didnt feel right when tightening them, just like a couple others posted. kept turning at 85ft lbs, i knew something was weird right away. never had a stud break in my life, and i used to put them on tight before i knew any better. these have to be defective. i have the butthole pucker going on when driving this thing now. is there some stronger studs to replace them with? not all that impressed with toyota at the moment!
85 ftlbs is NOT a lot, you shouldnt have to be exerting to much force to get to that.
 

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85 ftlbs is NOT a lot, you shouldnt have to be exerting to much force to get to that.
no ****. lugs should not be twisting off at 85 foot lbs, i dont care what anyone says. the tq wrench is not defective, and i am pretty sure they would have twisted off at 50 ft lbs, just as others have had happen.

If you guys are breaking wheel studs, you are doing something wrong....Why does everyone think its a faulty part, when THEY break something. you obviously have NO idea how to use a tq wrench, OR, the tq. wrench is junk.

its not rocket science
well, maybe because the friekin lugs are snapping off at the tq they are supposed to be set to? i would classify that as a faulty part, no?
 
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