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I was at the store and was looking at a buffer machine. The kind a detailer would use. After a harsh winter I am thinking of buffing the FJ out. Any suggestions as to what products work best or what to be careful of. The last thing I would want to do is burn a hole in the already soft VooDoo Blue. I do have a Tacoma to practice on.

TIA
Andy S.
 

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you need to claybar it first to remove the sediments on top of the paint so that the buffer doesnt grind that stuff in to the paint. there is a systematic way of really buffing a car out to make it last the longest and look the best. i suggest you read as much as you can about all the different kind of pads, chemicals, and techniques before you attempt it on your pretty FJ, or taco for that matter.
 

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all buffers can burn your paint, but it isnt the buffer that does it. it is the operator.
The Porter Cable 7336 is a random orbital, and I have mashed the foam pad down as hard as I can on both the FJ and my old 4Runner, no harm done.
That is the beauty of this system when using the Griot's foam pads or equivalent ones.
 

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The Porter Cable 7336 is a random orbital, and I have mashed the foam pad down as hard as I can on both the FJ and my old 4Runner, no harm done.
That is the beauty of this system when using the Griot's foam pads or equivalent ones.
a DA (dual action or random) will still burn the paint. its all about friction and there will still be friction. it just helps cut down on swirls left by the inexperienced user.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cory,
Nice job and the vid and the page !
I think it's time for a trip to the store.
Andy S.
 

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Avoid anything that spins in circles!! The cheap ones at the auto-parts store are underpowered, and the pro-end ones can overheat and burn the paint. Go with RANDOM ORBITAL - they generate far less heat and, if used properly, carry practically zero risk, even on delicate single-stage paint. On a clear coat like our FJs, you can get some phenominal and long-lasting results with a RO polisher.

I can't recommend the Porter Cable RO enough - it's a really safe tool for making your car look FANTASTIC, as the photos below show

I recommend getting a PC bundle pack with the device, a velcro backing plate and an assortment of pads - ones like the one from Detailers Paradise are the best deal, and this merchant is totally reliable and friendly to boot:

Detailers Paradise: Premium Car Care Products, Auto Detailing

I also recommend their detailing products - I use DP Swirl and Finish on my PC, and it makes even my soft BMW/MINI paint shine like a mirror. Even my classic Mini's paint was VASTLY improved after using DP products. For sealent, I recommend AMigo followed by Epic synthetic wax, and DP SLick as a detail spray - all are available in bundle deals on DP's site.

My classic Mini before/after polishing with a Porter Cable and DP products:

Before - not bad, but you can see the hazing in the paint very clearly:






After - check out that wet-looking shine!:







 

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I could not agree more. The porter cable r/o unit is one of the best products out there. I belive the edge wave foam pads in different grits with the pinacle xmt series polishes and waxes and glazes with the edge pads are some of the best and easiest to use on the market and with there little arbor that screws right into the porter cable unit it is so easy to use. You would have to put some extreme pressure with staying in the same place for minutes to burn the paint. I got this stuff at autogeek.com and It is some of the best products and the price is not too bad either.
 

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The short version:

For beginners, stay away from rotaries. Go with either:

A PC random Orbital (About $125) Good for beginners. They do bog down under pressure. If you plan on making a life long investment, go with one of the ones below. The PC doesn't have the torque the ones below have but will get the job done.

a Cyclo (About $250)

or a FLEX random orbital (About $275)

Def reco some clay. I prefer clay magic. Use car soap and water for lube 10 parts water 1 part soap.

Polishes: The best polishes I have used are Menzerna SIP and Menzerna PO106FF. They are the best and very user friendly. Expensive but worth it. RIght now Auto Detailing and Car Cleaning Products, Tools, and Tutorials - Detailed Image has the combo on sale. Good guys there, they ship fast and can give you plenty of advice.

Pads: Get a cutting pad, light polishing, and a finishing pad.

That should get ya started.
 

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Good Idea. I use a high speed buffer with McGuier's (spelled it wrong) high speed glaze. I'll use a cleaning wax to get rid of surface scratches. I've burnt the paint off my side view mirror in one spot but the high speed buffers do a nice job once you get the hang of it.

Good video Corey.
 

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If you hit the pawn shops you may be able to score a high speed buffer. The Voodoo Blue paint is NOT soft (I've wet sanded mine twice), but you still have to be careful about the edges, keep the speed on the lowest setting and make sure the spinning edge of the buffer is running off the edge of the panel and not into it.

Read the directions on your compounds, or even better, find a good detailer and ask if you can watch. Maybe even pay him to detail your truck and ask if he can show you how to do the work the best, if you get a good one, they won't mind.

Just like off roading, when buffing, speed kills...paint.
 

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If you hit the pawn shops you may be able to score a high speed buffer. The Voodoo Blue paint is NOT soft (I've wet sanded mine twice), but you still have to be careful about the edges, keep the speed on the lowest setting and make sure the spinning edge of the buffer is running off the edge of the panel and not into it.

Read the directions on your compounds, or even better, find a good detailer and ask if you can watch. Maybe even pay him to detail your truck and ask if he can show you how to do the work the best, if you get a good one, they won't mind.

Just like off roading, when buffing, speed kills...paint.
This is true - speed DOES kill (paint).

Rotary polishers can do some amazing things, don't get me wrong, but they can easily overheat and burn the paint if not used properly. Bottom line - for NON-PROS, Random Orbital polishers are many, many times safer and are generally cheaper to boot - it's completely win/win for people that only plan to ppolish their car 1 or 2 times a year.

It's not impossible to damage paint with a RO, especially if you're using a "cutting" pad (a pad with a fairly high abrasive rating), but with a medium or fine pad, you really have to TRY to damage the paint surface. getting a polisher in a bundle pack like I linked to in my reply is a good way to go - you generally get a medium and a fine pad (one for polishing, one for waxing) and those will be your main-stays.

If you have any other questions about RO polishing, just ask!
 
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