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I have an RV and plan to travel/wheel next year. After tons of research and many questions, I bought a trailer.
Remco said yes to flat tow,gave their part #'s and prices, however my question was, " how strong can the driveshaft disconnect be?"
It seemed to me that I would be adding a weak link to my 4X4, that I spent so much money to up grade from stock. :thinkerg: ummmmm NO!
 

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In the 2010 Toyota FJ CRuiser 4x4 auto transmission owners manual it states:
in an emergency you can tow with all four wheels on the ground:
putting the transfer case in 2H .( this is the normal 2 wheel drive position. In this position the ADD disconnects the front differential drive system. As there are no locking hubs the front wheels will always turn the axles, drive shafts and the diff either when towing or when driving 2 wheel drive )
the transmission shift lever in neutral.
the ignition switch in ACC or RUN (so the steering wont lock up)
The question I have is whether the prop shaft from the rear wheels will turn the gears inside the gear box to lubricate the parts . If not then one answer would be to leave the engine running while towing like freewheeling in neutral. OR install a Remco shaft disconnect at the rear differential and you are good to go.
Installing locking front hubs will eliminate the front drive system from turning all the time either towing or under normal 2 wheel drive. This would save wear and tear and save some gas.
 

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In the 2010 Toyota FJ CRuiser 4x4 auto transmission owners manual it states:
in an emergency you can tow with all four wheels on the ground:
putting the transfer case in 2H .( this is the normal 2 wheel drive position. In this position the ADD disconnects the front differential drive system. As there are no locking hubs the front wheels will always turn the axles, drive shafts and the diff either when towing or when driving 2 wheel drive )
the transmission shift lever in neutral.
the ignition switch in ACC or RUN (so the steering wont lock up)
The question I have is whether the prop shaft from the rear wheels will turn the gears inside the gear box to lubricate the parts . If not then one answer would be to leave the engine running while towing like freewheeling in neutral. OR install a Remco shaft disconnect at the rear differential and you are good to go.
Installing locking front hubs will eliminate the front drive system from turning all the time either towing or under normal 2 wheel drive. This would save wear and tear and save some gas.
What about putting the TC in neutral?

Leaving the key ON will drain the battery, depending on how long you tow it.

DEWFPO
 

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I have a friend who says the rear output shaft lubricates the transmission. He flat tows his FJ 4x4 auto 1000's of miles with transfer case in Neutral and transmission in Park.
He had to run 12 volt to the FJ as ignition in ACC runs battery down on long day.
 

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I'm thinking just remove the rear drive shaft when towing, it's only 4 bolts on each side.


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For a 4WD automatic, yes!

Hook FJ to tow vehicle.
Mark rear plates for reassembly.
Remove 4 nuts and bolts from rear end of driveshaft.
MARK DRIVESHAFT AND FRONT YOKE FOR REASSEMBLY.
Pull driveshaft from yoke.
Put bag over yoke and bungee it to underside.
Put bag over end of driveshaft and throw in back.
Leave FJ in park, key turned one click.

To reassemble:

Put FJ in Neutral.
install front of driveshaft, noting index marks.
Rotate driveshaft to allow alignment of rear marks.
Install four nuts and bolts.
PLACE FJ IN PARK BEFORE UNHOOKING FROM TOW VEHICLE.

Takes about five minutes in and five minutes out. This works the same as the Remco kit - disconnects the driveshaft.

I have done this dozens of times. Given the cost of the Remco route, I have paid myself about $200 an hour to twist my own nuts!

Matt B
 

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Put transfer case in 2H This is the normal 2 wheel drive position. The front diff and axles are disconnected ONLY in this position
Put automatic transmission shift lever in NEUTRAL .
Start engine and leave it running while you tow.
It sips fuel and keeps gears lubricated so you don't need a shaft disconnect .

Matt you are wrong In 4H towing you will wreck the transfer case.

I have been advised that you can also flat tow a Toyota FJ Cruiser 4x4 AT with transfer case in NEUTRAL and transmission in PARK. Move from neutral to park after switching engine off and visa versa.
 

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Put transfer case in 2H This is the normal 2 wheel drive position. The front diff and axles are disconnected ONLY in this position
Put automatic transmission shift lever in NEUTRAL .
Start engine and leave it running while you tow.
It sips fuel and keeps gears lubricated so you don't need a shaft disconnect .

Matt you are wrong In 4H towing you will wreck the transfer case.
You are correct. I mis-typed and have corrected my post. I leave the transfer case in 2HI.

I can see leaving the FJ running for an emergency tow, but it is not difficult at all to remove the driveshaft. We take the FJ with us 3-4 times a year, and that would be 100-150 hours of idling. Also, with the engine running, the vacuum brake booster would be activated, making our supplemental brake system unusable.

You guys are using supplemental brakes, right?

Matt B
 

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Brake buddy I was wrong that the TC needs to be in 2H.
I have a friend who says the rear output shaft lubricates the transmission. He flat tows 1000's of miles with transfer case in Neutral and transmission in Park.
He had to run 12 volt to the FJ as ignition in ACC runs battery down on long day.
A Toyota mechanic in Utica NY today confirmed that the automatic transmission FJ can be flat towed with transfer case in NEUTRAL. The rear wheels will drive the transfer case chain and splash lube the case
The actual transmission oil pump is at the front of the transmission and is driven when the engine is running. He said that as the transmission is not spinning the transmission will come to no harm when flat towing .
 

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I have a 2007 fj automatic 4x4. I just flat towed my FJ over 1200 miles. From Orlando to Oklahoma City with no issues. The easiest 1200 miles my FJ has ever seen. I didn't buy any oil pump system or remove or buy a drive shaft disconnect. All I did was shift the transmission into neutral,then shift the transfer case into neutral then shift the transmission into park position. then I turned the engine off and left the key in the accessory position so the steering wheel would not lock. And to insure that the transfer case didn't drift out of neutral and into gear I made a plate out of plastic with a slot in it to fit over the transfer case shifter tower to keep it from moving out of the neutral position. Follow these steps and you will have no problems towing your FJ. The only problem I ran into was finding a RV center to install the tow bracket alone without oil system and brake syetem. So I bought my Blue OX tow bracket online and installed it myself. Saved $400 at least just to install the bracket.
 

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The answer is yes. You can flat tow an automatic 4x4 FJ with no problem. I just flat towed mine over 1200 miles with no issues what so ever. The easiest 1200 miles my FJ has ever experienced. No oil pumps or drive shaft removal or disconnect system. Here is the procedure.
Start the engine and shift the transmission into neutral.
Then shift the transfer case into the neutral position.
Shift the transmission back into the Park position and turn the engine of leaving the key in the ignition in the accessory position (This will keep the steering wheel from locking).
VERY IMPORTANT! There is a high risk of the transfer case shifter drifting out of the neutral position and grinding against or engage into 4wheel high position. this happens it will destroy your transmission and tc. I found a simple remedy to insure that doesn't happen. What I did was make a plate 5"x8" with a slot cut out of the plate and fit it over the shifter tower,so the shifter lever cannot move.
The only other issue that I encountered was finding a RV center to install a bracket alone without all the oil pump and other crap. So I bought one online that came with installation instructions from Blue OX and installed it myself. took 3 1/2 hours and save a ton of money.
 

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I have a 2014 FJ with AT. I've read just about everything on line about towing with an automatic tranny. I went to the Toyota dealership where I live and talked with their long time driveline tech. He told me to put the TC in neutral and the tranny in neural, tow, and don't worry about it.

Then I read on a forum that the front end was locked in every TC position other than H2, including neutral.

So now, I'm back in the worry mode.

Sailor James, you are the latest post on this.

Worry wart.......
 

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I did a tow to an RV park, about a 20 mile round trip from home, with the FJ in tow. Good temps with a laser temp gun and found the tranny and TC at around 105 dogs. It was a pretty warm day. Took temps at the cases and the drive shaft connections.

On the return trip a couple days later the weather was a bit cooler. The temps were in the 75-80 deg range.

Tranny was in park and the TC was in neutral. Key was in the ignition at the 12 o'clock position.

The one concern I have is the way the FJ front wheels seemed pretty lazy when following the coach turning. The MotorHome is 42 ft and has a 6" drop hitch extension, so that adds length to the geometry. The worse is in a 90 deg turn where the front tires seem to be sliding a bit in the turn.

I am concerned about the comment that the front end is NOT unlocked unless the TC is in H2 and tranny is in neutral, Maybe that is why the front tires aren't turning with the coach....?

Any comments?
 

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I did a 1015 mile tow with my FJ behind our 42 ft coach. Stopped about a dozen times to take temp checks on input and output shafts, tranny and TC cases and pans with my laser temp gun. The highest temp seen was 154 deg on the TC output shaft housing. That was constant on checks. Others were in the 95 deg range probably affected by road temps.

I had the tranny in park and TC in neutral. Unhooked several times for going places. The FJ had no noticeable issues; vibration, noises, etc. Drives straight, no issues.

If I only knew how to unlock the front end for towing with the TC in neutral I would feel a lot more comfortable.

So, not having the means to do that I bit the bullet and ordered the REMCO disconnect to be on the safer side. I will tow with the driveshaft disconnected and the TC in H2.

As I posted before, my Toyota tech said to put the tranny and TC in neutral, and tow and not to worry about it. I cannot find out for sure if the TC is unlocked only in H2.

Maybe manual hubs down the road.
 

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Seems to me an easy way to test if the transfer case differential locks the front and rear driveshafts together is to put the TC in neutral, turn the front wheels all the way over in one direction or the other and try to push the vehicle.

If the drivetrain binds up, you have your answer.
 

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Just ran a test; Placed FJC on a down hill slope, placed TC in 'N', Placed transmission in 'N', turn steering all the way over left and let it roll. It bound up indicating front axle was indeed locked up with the rear axle. Redid test with TC in '2H' and no binding was found. I think you must tow in '2H' to release front axle. For me we use a tow dolly and not 4 down therefor we will placed TC in '2H', Transmission in neutral and run engine while towing to lube transmission. We will probably lock steering wheel with a couple of straps from the steering wheel down to driver seat front mounting bolt brackets as our Demco SS tow dolly asks for the steering lock to be engaged while towing. I got to tell y'all how great it is to have this resource for the FJ, thanks so much for your participation and sharing your knowledge with newbies like me. See you out there!
 
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