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Ball joint separator OR, small sledge and pressure. There's a flat spot on the spindle you can hit. Loosen the castle nut, but don't take it off. Hit the flat spot on the spindle with the sledge, it should come free.
 

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A good penetrating oil sprayed on tonight will help tomorrow. And cussing helps. You can even make up your words.
 

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I use the hammer method in removing the tie
rod ends, and or ball joints, to keep from
damaging them with a fork type deal... Then,
you have the RIGHT way as Valk' shows below...

bandi said:
I guess I use the "monkey" way myself... HAMMER...

I loosen the retaining nut, but leave the nut on a few
threads so I do not damage them... Then a WAM with
the hammer, and the pop right out...

Like this photo illustrates on the upper ball-joint...
notice the "strike" area... (but nut must be loose)


You can see the strike area in for the tie rod in this photo...


Use a puller, not a pickle fork. Hammering a pickle fork is only if you are replacing, as it not only damages the boot, but usually scores the rod end.

Also goes by tie-rod end puller, pitman arm puller or just end puller. The TRE's will need a pitman arm puller (just slightly bigger). You can usually rent these at auto parts stores for $5-$10, sometimes loaned free with a deposit put down.

 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok I have used every tool and that kit, nothing. I am beating the crap out of it with a 5 pound sledge hammer. I am about to go buy a torch and heat the spindle and try and hammering it. then all I can think of is to cut the UCA bold off on top of the spindle (cant really go back since the bottom of the bolt it bent) and drill it out from the top.


And I mean If I really cant get this, I will just buy a new spindle and replace everything.... cause its not really drivable. Or I could trailer it to my local 4wps (ugh).


I am really running out of Ideas and my car is pretty much stuck where it is.
 

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tie rod puller. just did this yesterday installing a lift. takes maybe 1 minute each.

Loosen castle nut but do not remove.
Place tie rod puller on with driving bolt under the UCA bolt. Similar to this:



Tighten down until a good bit of force is needed to turn wrench.
Tap spindle with hammer in spot pictured below. Like this:



Try spraying PB Blaster all around the ball joints bolt. It will seam in and probably loosen the fit enough for it to come loose.

The only other thing i can suggest is for you to take a picture of exactly what you are trying, because something must be wrong. I have done this three or 4 times and never had it fail to work. Pickle fork will work too, but rips apart the ball joint boot on the UCA.
 

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Easy way..
1) remove balljoint nut
2) remove lower shock mount nut and thread onto balljoint until bolt and nut are flush.
3) do not remove lower shock bolt!
4) place jack under spindle and raise it up until the uca balljoint isn't binding. About 11/2"-2"
5) spray balljoint with wd-40 and give the nut (step 2) a love tap with a 3 pound hammer. Try and hit it square so you don't mushroom the bolt.

I know it's not the best way but it works fine. I've done 5-6 lifts on fjc.
 

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Are you anywhere near any Other fj'rs that may be able to help you ?
 

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Like most of you have posted above...it's difficult to use any type of joint seperator without causing some damage to the boot. I have broke my suspension down several times and have helped many others...I have always been able to use a 3 or 5lb mini sledge to break em' free. It hasn't always been easy and sometimes I've used some good ole backwoods ingenuity....torch...hydraulic rams and some anchor tie downs with welded attachment points. That was in some extreme cases where the front end had damage.
 

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Wd-40 is great for stuburn joints. I'll spray the balljoint shaft with wd before I even remove the tires then squirt it a few more times so when I'm ready to remove bj from spindle it comes out easy and like I said earlier place a jack under spindle and lift it up a little.. At full drop there is more pressure so it's way harder to remove.. To much binding
 

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I just did mine for the LR UCA swap. As with any other ball joints and tie rod ends, I used the hammer method on them. The trick is to use two hammers, hitting each side of the top of the spindle right at the ball joint bolt at the same time. You don't need to beat on it very hard. The way it works is that you create just enough percussion on two sides of the mount to pop the bolt free. This way you're not hitting the end of the bolt or the UCA, but tapping relatively gently on the heavier castings of the spindle.

If you can't master the knack of the 2 hammer method, the nice thing about the FJ spindles is that there is a solid flat section on the top, where you can rest a crow bar and get some good leverage on the underside of the UCA. I call this "PLAN B". Again, no heavy bashing involved.
 

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When I replaced my UCA's, I actually rounded off the castle nut connecting it to the spindle. I tried your standard bolt splitter,

but it didn't work because the nut is flared towards the top of it,

so the splitter kept moving around. After trying for a short while, I got fed up and just took my sawzal and 2 blades lator, presto! I just used a picklehammer to separate the UCA from the spindle. I only had to do this on the DS, PS was a relative piece of cake.
 

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^^^:werd:
 
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