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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
3 quick ones for you experts out there...

1. I'm running (when it gets here) an alpine PDX-5 (1200 watts total--4x75 and 1x300). Alpine Type R 6.5 components in front, Alpine Type R 6.5 coaxials in pods, and the dual 10 setup from wickedcas 10w1v3 (I think). Do I need a capacitor? Would it help my system stay cleaner sounding?

2. I don't have a million dollars for dynamat, so I was thinking about putting strips here and there as opposed to covering the entire door, cargo area, etc. My thoughts are that this will work simply based upon the "stereo shop" display with a single small piece of dynamat on the "customer service" bell. The whole bell doesn't need to have it to be damped... Opinions please.

3. To avoid noise getting to my amp... I plan on running the shortest 3 pairs of RCAs that I can (from my AVIC D3 to the amp under the seat) basically direct path out the bottom of the center console to the amp. I'll run my power and grounds on the driver's side as far outboard as I can. Is there anything else out there that might help me out?

Thanks in advance. Feel free to help on one, two, three or NONE of my questions, but I thought I'd put it out there.... My goal is installation over Memorial Day Weekend when I'll have plenty of time to pull the FJ apart. I want to order everything I need online so I can do a full install at one time instead of piece by piece.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
You're using PDXS...NO need for a capicator. I'm pushing 1400 watts, they are incredibly efficiently and clean amplifiers. I'm not a fan of caps either...
will the lights dim every time the bass drops? I don't care, I just want clean sound. Not competition, but clean. I'm looking forward to the install... what do you think about the dynamat?
 

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You're using PDXS...NO need for a capicator. I'm pushing 1400 watts, they are incredibly efficiently and clean amplifiers. I'm not a fan of caps either...
you say it as though your word is the law. why arent you a fan of capacitors? 1400 watts doesnt mean jack. current draw is what you need to look at. and when a capacitor is used for its intended purpose, they work great. its people that use them instead of upgrading the charging system that complain that they dont work right.
 

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will the lights dim every time the bass drops? I don't care, I just want clean sound. Not competition, but clean. I'm looking forward to the install... what do you think about the dynamat?
i was drawing a considerable amount more than you would on a peak, and i had no major dimming issues. you will be just fine with the stock electrical system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks Briman. My plan was to run without a Cap for awhile and if I need it later, add it in... since you're on here, and we've discussed it before... will baffles behind my speakers (the foam kind) help or hurt my sound? I was thinking of using them for protection from the elements, but if it makes it sound like a speaker in a way-too-small box, then I'll skip them...
 

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Take a fully charged 50 or larger farad cap. Strap a M80 to it. Roll it under a car that is on and running. Light said fuse. Run like hell. And you just made your first ever EMP bomb. It will knock out the entire cars computer controlled electrical system(s) and render the car unfixable and will be totaled out via the insurance co. I know this cuz I did it on a dare back like 15 years ago and it worked. No physical damage will be done to the car. Just a cool thought if your looking for a really cool science project for school anybody.:bigthumb: BTW this will have blast radius of about 6 to 10 feet. If you do this make sure your cell phone and ipod are turned off. If not the joke will be on you as well.
 

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Seems like a interesting thing to do in a hospital ER...:bandit:
Oh Man that is so F'ed up. This is not ment to kill people. A lot of people depend on computers to keep them alive. I know this cause I was hospitalized 2 days ago on heart complications. :king: But your comment was funny at best.:lol:
 
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