Me likey. I like that you can use the cargo mat and can access the jack and outlet.
I might make something like yours this weekend. It would be nice if the legs could extent to 3 or 4 time the length. I would also want some more tie downs on top to secure anything up there.
What he said. If anyone finds/knows where extending legs are, post up!
I really like your new set-up with your refrigerator, Woodsman, but for me, since I don't have a shop right now, this one would work perfectly. I can go to Home Depot and have them cut everything I need on their panel saw. I kinda' like the OP's table idea as well as the ease of removal, versatility, and simplicity.. and I like the way your's has the platform extending out over the fenderwells. That could actually eliminate the need for the legs on the OP's version, depending on the height of the containers... one could even just make some wooden containers (drawers) at a specific height with handles (cut-outs) on both ends. Your divider would add enough rigidity for anything you'd want to load as well as providing the lateral security needed for the containers. If you wanted to put screw-in legs on it, the divider could even be installed with a hinge so it could be folded up while using as a table. :clap: :cheers: I'm glad you guys presented your ideas.. I've been contemplating a simple storage solution. Thank You!I used Psychlone's idea as the basis for my first storage setup but I did several things differently. The overall weight of the wood deck and two plastic tubs was less than 30 pounds. I used this setup from '08 until summer '11 and it did a great job.
1st, my plywood deck was scribed and tapered to fit tight on the left and tight under the subwoofer.
2nd, I have one vertical support placed to allow two tubs to the left and my compressor and tool bag on the right while still allowing access to the jack and the plug.
3rd, my CO2 tank is securely fastened to the left rear panel and then attached down to the deck.
4th, my plastic drawers were sourced from Global Industrial and can be pulled out like a drawer and left open without fear of falling out.
Yes, I did cut a "scallop" in the back to accommodate the MPAC. It was causing me headaches though because those few lost inches would prevent me from carrying my luggage, tent, sleeping pad, etc in a front-to-back orientation. It would have made more sense to buy longer plastic tubs and forget the MPAC and that is the direction I am moving now. I have removed the MPAC as I no longer consider them to be an efficient use of space. For example, I now have everything that was in the MPAC bags in one old Ridgid rechargeable drill case (the kind everyone throws away) and put it in the drawer or behind the front seat or wherever it fits best.So is anyone using the MPAC for the rear door with any of these drawers or cargo solutions? I may get an MPAC in the future and want to know how many inches I need to leave between the rear door and the shelf to clear the standard bags that come with the rear door MPAC. Or if someone is using a shorter Maxpedition set of bags, please post a pic.
Woodsman, it almost looks like you cut out a slight curve in your shelf. Is that to accomodate the MPAC?
It was "cabinet grade" 3/4" birch plywood (7 ply) and I used the roll-on bedliner stuff you can pickup at your local auto parts or home improvement place. Baltic birch is also a great choice but stay away from melamine and MDF (heavy) and building grade plywood such as AC and CDX grades which is lower quality and won't be flat.Woodsman, thanks for the quick reply! Since you seem to be in a generous mood with your responses, what type of sheet material did you use. From the pics, it looks like it might be a piece of black melamine. Or is it just painted black. In hindsight, is there any other material that you might have used.