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I'm not familiar with how these work, from the toyota build site it seems the MT will come with this standard. Also, I understand how a locker works in a straight axel but can you get a locker for the front, independent-type suspension. Thanks in advance, my current 4x4 is a '53 willys p/u so I'm not to up on this "modern stuff"
 

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With the center diff, the one in the transfer case not locked the truck is in AWD mode. The front and rear driveshafts can spin at different speeds. With that diff locked is like 4x4. The front and rear driveshafts are always spinning at the same speed.
 

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the ability to lock the center gives you the power to distribute the power 50/50 front/rear. without locking the center, it will flux between 30/70 - 70/30 or something like that (being very general here). Also when you lock the center, it disables the VSC (vehicle skid control).

rear locker is standard for mt but if you get the at, you can add the ARB rear locker (part number RD23) - This component is an air locker compared to the Toyota electric locker.

front locker is also available now thru ARB. They are the only one that I am aware of at this point. If you plan to keep gears under 4.10 then you can use the part number RD121 but if you plan to get gears over 4.10 then make sure you get the RD111 locker.

Good luck
 

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Good Times said:
the ability to lock the center gives you the power to distribute the power 50/50 front/rear. without locking the center, it will flux between 30/70 - 70/30 or something like that (being very general here). Also when you lock the center, it disables the VSC (vehicle skid control).

rear locker is standard for mt but if you get the at, you can add the ARB rear locker (part number RD23) - This component is an air locker compared to the Toyota electric locker.

front locker is also available now thru ARB. They are the only one that I am aware of at this point. If you plan to keep gears under 4.10 then you can use the part number RD121 but if you plan to get gears over 4.10 then make sure you get the RD111 locker.

Good luck

So does that mean that if you add the lockers to the AT, then there is no 'advantage' to having the MT?

Not being a hardcore offroader but more of a winter in the mountains camper, I sort of assumed the MT was the 'truer' version of the FJ and would therefore also keep a higher resale value. Also thought the full-time 4WD might be city safer in rain and the like. And finally, just more fun to drive

Any thoughts on this?

If I pull the trigger, I would at least like to know if there are techincal advantages to one tranny over the other.
 

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Once you add a rear locker to the AT, it'll be no different from the MT w/ the Toyota electric rear locker.

Now how much will make a diff on the trails? AT, MT it really doesn't make a big difference. It just boils down to preference. As for the full time 4wd system you ask? Well just keep your part time in 4HI all the time and it's now a full time system. The part time system is the same one found on the 03+ 4runner v6 model and 05+ tacoma. The system is already geared so that you can drive in 4hi year round as tested by many owners so once in 4HI it's no different from the full time version.

So basically full time or part time it really doesn't matter. auto or manual, it's just up to the user. rear locker? no problem just get the arb if you didn't get the electric toyota rear locker.

With many accessories available, you can get whatever vehicle you want and jsut customize it accordingly :)

Good luck!
 

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Doesn't the 4Hi system on the Taco's bind up if you drive it on pavement? I have not heard of a 4WD system that could be driven in 4Hi like that (like you are suggesting the AT system can.) It is a part time system, not intended to be locked in unless the driving surface offers enough give that the transfer case won't bind up. Please correct me if I am wrong though.... I am leaning towards the MT AWD system with the locking center differential for this reason. Winter driving.
 

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They told us at SEMA that you can shift this puppy into 4-hi at 85mph... I think you're good.
 

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makarov said:
Doesn't the 4Hi system on the Taco's bind up if you drive it on pavement? I have not heard of a 4WD system that could be driven in 4Hi like that (like you are suggesting the AT system can.) It is a part time system, not intended to be locked in unless the driving surface offers enough give that the transfer case won't bind up. Please correct me if I am wrong though.... I am leaning towards the MT AWD system with the locking center differential for this reason. Winter driving.
I'm far from the level of off-road and techie knowledge as many here, but I think you are exactly correct.

I'd appreciate more clarification on this if someone feels MAKAROV's comments are not correct.
 

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the only time the binding will be noticeable is in tight turns. for the most part.
 

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You just can't lock the rear differential above 15 mph.
 

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I knew it was low, I didn't realize it was that low....

crazy.
 

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Percy said:
I knew it was low, I didn't realize it was that low....

crazy.
On my '96 BigFJ, I have the optional factory front & rear lockers. If I recall correctly from the owner's manual, they can't be used above 5 mph either. As I understand it, they're basically there only for when yer really stuck. Otherwise they recommend 4LO where the center is locked.
 

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Percy said:
I knew it was low, I didn't realize it was that low....

crazy.
they do that so your not spinning one tire and hit the button to lock the rear... kaboom!!!!
 

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Ah, dirka, dirka, dirka....
 

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once it's locked you can go upto 62mph. thats max speed in 6th in L4
 

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I for one, would *not* reccommend driving a vehicle in 4Hi on pavement. Maybe the binding will be minimal, but it is still really hard on the transfer case. I have accidentally left my rigs in 4Hi and felt it binding when turning a fairly easy corner. The big Landcruiser has a different kind of 4WD system than the 4Runners or Taco's. Drive an FJ Cruiser AT in 4Hi all the time if you want to, but I really don't think it is a good idea. Being able to shift on the fly up to 85mph does not mean it is OK to drive on pavement with it.
 

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Percy said:
Ah, dirka, dirka, dirka....
lurka sherpa geehawd.






are you in my head???
 

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makarov said:
I for one, would *not* reccommend driving a vehicle in 4Hi on pavement. Maybe the binding will be minimal, but it is still really hard on the transfer case. I have accidentally left my rigs in 4Hi and felt it binding when turning a fairly easy corner. The big Landcruiser has a different kind of 4WD system than the 4Runners or Taco's. Drive an FJ Cruiser AT in 4Hi all the time if you want to, but I really don't think it is a good idea. Being able to shift on the fly up to 85mph does not mean it is OK to drive on pavement with it.
Listen to makarov! Just because YOU don't notice binding (wheelhop, weird sounds from your diff, etc.) does not mean that your DRIVELINE does not notice binding. You do not have to take tight corners in 4WD to provide damage to your vehicle. Driving at reasonable speeds with your 4WD constantly loaded but not over-loaded wears diff. gears down much faster and transparently to YOU! Not to mention that inspection of your transfer case/diff(s) (and Toyota techs will if you have catastrophic damage done) will show what you have done and Toyota will opt to void your warranty for abuse/mis-use. If you plan on a lot of snow/pavement winter mix, buy good snow all-terrains or if you like the manual tranny get the full-time open center (toyota released full-time power ratio specs, it's 60f/40r to 50f/50r) Also, check into the specs for the torque-converter and transmission cooling system before stating that the auto and manual trannies are no different. Autos get damaged from heat build-up during long-duration low-speed tranny slippage. First gear is also much lower on the manual allowing for better off-road low-speed climbing/crawling.
 
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