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What mileage is on your '07 with the sludge oil issue?
Timing chains usually last a very, very long time, unless they've been abused by poor oil change frequency. In that case there are also other things to start worrying about (stuck piston rings, how to clean the sludge out without causing new issues / blocked drain holes, clogged CATs if too much of the gunk gets burned through the exhaust, etc.).

Before paying for a new chain, though, it would be wise to open the inspection ports on the sides of the heads to confirm the status of the chain tensioners (there are threads on here with that explained in detail). Only if the tensioners show excessive wear would I jump from the possibility of bad aftermarket sensors (even if they do check ok by bench test) to $6k of labor and parts.
 
Wouldn't you expect a P0016 to appear with the P0340 if the main timing chain were elongated or jumped? Without that, the sensor and its wiring seem more likely, or maybe the camshaft timing gear. Without the P0016 also present, it doesn't seem like there is a constant timing error that would come from a stretched chain and other things should be checked first. It would be a lot less expensive to fix without doing the whole timing chain.
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What mileage is on your '07 with the sludge oil issue?
Timing chains usually last a very, very long time, unless they've been abused by poor oil change frequency. In that case there are also other things to start worrying about (stuck piston rings, how to clean the sludge out without causing new issues / blocked drain holes, clogged CATs if too much of the gunk gets burned through the exhaust, etc.).

Before paying for a new chain, though, it would be wise to open the inspection ports on the sides of the heads to confirm the status of the chain tensioners (there are threads on here with that explained in detail). Only if the tensioners show excessive wear would I jump from the possibility of bad aftermarket sensors (even if they do check ok by bench test) to $6k of labor and parts.
Right now i have just under 163K miles on theboke girl. I got her witb 142K. I ran another bottle of detergent through which cleared the codes for a year or so...but theyre back now with an intermittent struggle to start. I am toyota now for an oil change and diagnostic...i have an inside guy lol...so hopefully i will have an update for yall soon.
 
Right now i have just under 163K miles on theboke girl. I got her witb 142K. I ran another bottle of detergent through which cleared the codes for a year or so...but theyre back now with an intermittent struggle to start. I am toyota now for an oil change and diagnostic...i have an inside guy lol...so hopefully i will have an update for yall soon.
Welp. Cant clear the codes but narrowed it down to the large center timing chain. That saves a little bit i guess.
 
Well son of a bitch...on a hunch i flip flopped the cam sensors and it moved the error code from bank 1 to bank 2. Bought a $20 cam sensor feom amazon to reolace the bad one and BOOM...no more codes and it sounds smooth. Next step is get some toyota oe cam position sensors and hope i got nomo problems.
 
What mileage is on your '07 with the sludge oil issue?
Timing chains usually last a very, very long time, unless they've been abused by poor oil change frequency. In that case there are also other things to start worrying about (stuck piston rings, how to clean the sludge out without causing new issues / blocked drain holes, clogged CATs if too much of the gunk gets burned through the exhaust, etc.).

Before paying for a new chain, though, it would be wise to open the inspection ports on the sides of the heads to confirm the status of the chain tensioners (there are threads on here with that explained in detail). Only if the tensioners show excessive wear would I jump from the possibility of bad aftermarket sensors (even if they do check ok by bench test) to $6k of labor and parts.

Correction of my post #23 above: the timing chain inspection port is on the front, upper RH side of the engine (painted black in this photo, usually silver zinc chromate plated, so probably it will have a grey/crusty appearance on most engines):
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Here is what a healthy timing chain adjuster looks like at 120k miles, oil changes every 5k miles (the engine inside looked spotlessly clean):
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...and here's what a really, really bad one looks like (180k miles, poorly neglected oil change intervals). Note the lines on the plunger which indicate where it sat for a while each time. Probably that last line is about 2x the amount shown in the photo above:

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