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2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser
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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a manual 2007 FJ. 140k, transmission last serviced at 90k.

Last few days it feels off when shifting. The pedal action feels normal. When I shift the rpms seem to rev a little higher (but not much) without a corresponding increase in speed at the same time. It still accelerates but is slower than it should be. Lower speeds its less noticeable but much more on the highway. There are no burning or clutch smells.

One of the guys doing the oil change said it felt like it was enaging late but didn't have anything else to say.

I've read things from checking the transmission fluid (its sealed and there are no leaks apparent and was serviced regularly). Clutch may need an adjustment (but I can't find info about that online), or sign of the clutch starting to go out, or possible transmission issue.

Anything I should look at before I take it to a shop?

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You have to understand a slipping clutch. Not something somebody sitting behind a keyboard can do for you. Put the thing in high gear at about 50 mph and pop the clutch while accelerating. If the rpm takes off with minimal acceleration from my keypad I'd say slipping. You, the one behind the steering wheel need to tell us it is slipping. There is no adjustment for a slipping clutch.


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Discussion Starter #3
That sounds like what I'm experiencing. 50-60mph when I let off the clutch and hit the gas it revs up from about 2k rpm to 3k but it only accelerates very slowly. Not how it normally feels. My only experience with a clutch going out was on another car 30 years ago when the clutch went out all at once and vehicle wasn't driveable.
 

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Have exact same issue didn’t take to mechanic but assumed clutch slipping


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Discussion Starter #6
What are good options for a new clutch if that is what is needed? For normal road driving 50% and backcountry forest roads the rest. Not stop and go city driving and not towing, racing or rock crawling. I'm seeing the run of the mill ones like the OEMs, ceramic, and the rest seem to be high performance/racing.
 

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I replaced my clutch with the URD Stage 2 clutch but if I had to do it all over again, I'd buy the OEM Aisin from Rock Auto and save my money. No real beef with URD but if your truck isn't supercharged, stock is plenty sufficient.
 

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+1 on what voodoo said. Now I do have a question about what’s the life expectancy for a URD or any of the high performance clutches out there vs OEM?


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IMO clutch life expectancy is very dependant on the driver. My friend toasted his OEM clutch on his FJ in 60K mi, I am at 180K mi on my OEM.
 

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+1 on what voodoo said. Now I do have a question about what’s the life expectancy for a URD or any of the high performance clutches out there vs OEM?


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Clutch life (like synchro life) is almost 100% defined by driving technique.

It's entirely possible to get 250K+ miles out of a typical automotive clutch, including the TO bearing, by using the appropriate shifting technique.

On the other hand, I have seen morons completely burn out a clutch, and destroy 2nd and 3rd gear synchros, in 40K miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yep, watched some youtube videos on clutches last night and makes sense how driving habits are connected to the clutch life. Riding the clutch and driving with your foot on the clutch especially will wear out the pads on the clutch much faster. I don't personally drive like that and got 140k out of this one. And I can see now how the slipping is happening and how that connects to the higher rpms and slow acceleration and a burning smell of the clutch. I'll go with an OEM Aisin then.

I would like to see the higher performance version of the OEM Aisin that someone mentioned earlier but searching for it online I seem to only find the stock one. The kits run about $300 if that's it.

When replacing with a stock OEM clutch do you have to get a full kit or can you just replace the clutch pad? I'd assume if its just the pads that wore out you wouldn't need to also replace the diaphragm part.
 

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If you going there at 140k then you might also want to change the flywheel. I recommend OEM which is heavy flywheel.

The issue with replacing a clutch is how much you gonna pay for a mechanic todo it


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Discussion Starter #15
I'm stuck having to take it to a shop, doesn't look like a job I can do at home in the carport. I'm more prepared now though.
 

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Clutch disc and pressure plate (diaphragm)must be replaced as a set if you want to get another as new life out of it at that mileage.
Also pilot bearing and release bearing should be replaced as well.
Flywheel should also be refinished as well.

Also replace clutch fork if it shows any uneven wear.
Not a bad idea to replace transmission input shaft seal as well as rear main seal if there are any sign of weepage.
Also replace shifter ball seat.

All of this should guarantee that you will see at least another 140k if you use as you did the first 140k

I have had multiple other vehicles attain 300K (and counting)miles on orig clutch.

Most times on a well driven standard , the pilot bearing and/or release bearing will fail before clutch disc is worn out.




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