Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

I am looking for knowledge and advice on what to use to wire in some cowl lights. I live in a rural area and periodically have to do night time traffic inspections and other night time activities. The deer are thick right now and last week in a 30 mile round trip I had 3 encounters including 1 where I had to come to a complete stop to let young deer pass. The extra light will be hugely beneficial in these areas and helpful in keeping myself and the deer safe.

I ordered the brackets, 4" led side shooter lights, 2 lead harness, T taps, and aftermarket switch from Chi 4x4(The FJ hood spot light one that I thought was cool.) I have plenty of tools, plastic/HDPE pry bars, tap in add circuits for fuse box, fuses, and a decent understanding of home electrical, but a rudimentary knowledge of automobile electrical. Meaning I have replaced fuses, tried to trace and fix problems in other used cars we have had in the past, and most importantly---wired my own amp and sub woofer in high school and helped some friends do some wiring for hick-a--ed spot lights. It was a long time ago and we were not to concerned with fit and finish.

After ordering what I thought I needed, and then doing the research, I found that there might/probably is some factory wiring attached to the blanks in the switch panel. I have 2011 NSSE with one owner before me. It has front bumper mounted Fog/Spot Lights. She said they were factory. I think they were installed at the port or the dealership. They seem to be wired into the factory wiring and only are activated when the high beams are on. See attached photos.

Tried to find a guide to where factory wiring behind the blanks went to, but not so successful. I have attached photos. Would like to know if anyone can tell me where the wiring behind the blanks goes to and if I should use them and buy the toyota oem harness to do it. Would be nice if there is one that is in the engine compartment and I don't have to pass through the firewall myself.

I labeled the switches to make it easier to communicate which one we were talking about. Any advice about the best way to go about it will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
774 Posts
I used the blank on the left side of the steering wheel. Recommend you run your own wiring sized to the power draw for the lights you choose.
And while you are at it, sounds like you are a candidate for an aftermarket front bumper to mount those lights and keep the deer off your hood. Lots of advice here, but go with the ARB.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Lights are 4in led. Only going to draw 2-3 amps. Most of my miles are back and forth to work. It is my DD. Not sure I want to add the weight. With a 10 and 8 yr old and bills might be a while before I get a bumper. I am having some aluminum skids fabricated, but will be Christmas ish until they are done.
Opened it up. 6 and 7 do have factory wiring. 6 must go to the power outlet in the back that everyone says is worthless. 7 on the older models was the rear parking assist. Did 2011's have that as an option.
Wiring harness should get here today. What is the best way to get through the firewall? I see the main entry point behind the fuse box and steering wheel. Best way to do the least amount of damage to it and seal it back up? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
144 Posts
KamikazeBoy,
#9 is a blank, nothing behind it
rear park assist, YES, my '11 has it
The fog light harness is in the D/S "A" pillar you should b able to tap into it there for the ditch lights, or run separate wiring for independent operation to #9 or whichever slot you choose.
HTH!

D :cowsmile:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
360 Posts
Wish I could help you, but mine was a base model and didn't even have A-Trac installed.

Switch wiring through a relay means small gauge wiring in the cabin - mine has been all 18ga and no issues with the 9 relays I used.

That being said, I have hit my second deer this year. Last year it was 3 of them and a hog.

If you are in the thick of them, the weight of a decent bumper with a good approach angle will save you thousands in animal damages.

If you have a roof rack, that let's the lights shine farther than your bumper mounts. You might try a light bar there and just pop some cheap HO chinese LEDs up there. Mine have been working solid for over a year at this point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Thanks. Yep. I popped the #9 . Just a blank. Probably didn't even need to remove that trim to get to it. Oh well. Now I know how it comes apart. Seems like it will be easiest and most logical to put it there.
For now I plan to put as small a hole as possible in the rubber plate, fish the wires from the relay to the switch through it and silicone it back up. Going to run straight off the battery and not tie into the fuse box unless the relay has an auxiliary wire coming off it. Was hard to tell from the description. I ordered this one.
https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Wiring-Harness-Waterproof-Warranty/dp/B074GXRBJG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=nilight+2+lead+harness&qid=1571504741&sprefix=nilight+2+lead+&sr=8-4

If there is any reason anyone knows why it won't work or advice...bring it.
If I want to add a light bar up top then I will tie into the fuse box and or get a second battery. For now I think these will be enough. Mainly looking to widen my field of vision on the dark country roads. Thanks again.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Now just waiting for the harness to get here. Come on USPS or UPS or Fed Ex or WHATEVER!!
Just show up please.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
123 Posts
Thanks. Yep. I popped the #9 . Just a blank. Probably didn't even need to remove that trim to get to it. Oh well. Now I know how it comes apart. Seems like it will be easiest and most logical to put it there.
For now I plan to put as small a hole as possible in the rubber plate, fish the wires from the relay to the switch through it and silicone it back up. Going to run straight off the battery and not tie into the fuse box unless the relay has an auxiliary wire coming off it. Was hard to tell from the description.
That will work. Do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
360 Posts
Now just waiting for the harness to get here. Come on USPS or UPS or Fed Ex or WHATEVER!!
Just show up please.
Just a small note ofc aution - when you pull your wires through that big firewall grommet, pull from INSIDE the cabin. If you pull from under the hood, you are pulling in the direction most likely to pop the grommet out if you get in a bind.

And siriusly...think about that bumper? My son is a park ranger and drives up near our farm daily. He hasn't hit one yet this year, but it is NORMAL for us to hit 1 or 2 during rutting season. He crashed his TJ into one last year before he got the bumper on. He just put a bull bar on his Toyo camping minivan strictly for deer and hogs.

Now if you are in moose country...just drive S-L-O-W-L-Y...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
use the same harness worked perfect.. i didnt get a switch with mine though.. i found some toyota switches for about $5 each though, were not the color i wanted but could not refuse the price..
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top