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Discussion Starter #1
Alright I need some help brain storming. I need to change my harmonic balancer and I'm leaning towards going with the lightweight one The xrunner guys rant over or OEM. Here's a link to the lightweight one.

https://www.shopnonstoptuning.com/store/p90/2005-2015ToyotaFJTacomaXRunnerPulleyKitNST06150K.html

I have an 08 MT with 135k. I drive it on trails quite a bit and this is just another item on my truck that has done it's time and needs to be replaced. I figure since I'm in there might as well upgrade right? I've heard the weighted crankshaft pulley is useful for AWD applications as it helps transfer torque more appropriately compared to say a RWD application that tends to benefit from the light weight pulley. I'm on a mad goose chase for information all over Google right now but I could use a tid bit of advice from anyone who's ever messed with them on the 1GR. Thanks
 

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Don't worry guys, I ended up getting an OEM replacement
I am curious about this. Are both pulleys in the picture Toyota parts? Is the new one a changed-up part number replacement? What were the symptoms while running that the original was disintegrating?
Thanks.
 

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Oh boy, the symptoms were pretty significant but it took MONTHS for me to realize it. About eight months ago I had shredded one entire rib off of my serpentine belt. Less than a month and a half later I shredded another serpentine belt.... at that point I changed all the idler pulley’s and tensioner. For some reason I had developed a legitimate power steering fluid leak from the pump (this is four or five months later) so I changed the PS pump. Mean while, I changed two more SERP belts due to random shredding. Three months ago I experience serious serpentine belt shredding (thankfully no failure) and I start doing some hard core digging. Between visual inspections, and some remove and reinstall of idler pulleys I was clueless as to why my serpentine belts were getting absolutely shredded. THEN I take a six and a half hour trip north and on the way home my AC light in the cab randomly starts blinking, with the AC on and recirc off. I didn’t think much of it, I figured I just needed a shot of refrigerant on my way home from my trip, no biggie. Fast forward two months and I turn my AC on either recirc or recirc off and the AC light blinks within 20 seconds of me turning it on. Mind you, whenever the AC light blinks, it stops putting out cold air. I found a trouble shooting tree in the engine manual that talked about checking the magnetic clutch relay (of which mine was completely good) but I noticed my AC clutch was starting and stopping very abruptly whenever I turned the AC on. When I shut the engine off, I noticed my serp belt was F’ed. It looked like a mountain range. I started the engine again and stood on the passenger side of the engine bay and watched the belt running and noticed my harmonic balancer was wobbling like a freshly born calf. Upon visual inspection of that pulley I realized the rubber material inside it was done for. It took me eight or so months and six serpentine belts to realize that was the problem, but I changed it and GOOD LORD has it made a difference. The pulley I got was Dayco brand. If it fails prematurely I’ll probably replace it with the aftermarket one but for now I’m glad to just have properly replaced the pulley. It was a ghost gripe I finally figured out.
 

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Whigglets,

I enjoyed reading your story. Good information to keep in the back of my mind in case I ever experience the same situation. Like you, my first first thought would have been the idler pulley and tensioner.
 

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I'm just rebuilding my engine after a few problems but could not figure out why my last fan belt broke. Just looked at the crankshaft pulley and sure enough the rubber on the back side of it was bored out almost completely.

Also the broken belt left a big gouge were the front seal is....

Thanks for the heads up whigglets!
 

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Oh boy, the symptoms were pretty significant but it took MONTHS for me to realize it. About eight months ago I had shredded one entire rib off of my serpentine belt. Less than a month and a half later I shredded another serpentine belt.... at that point I changed all the idler pulley’s and tensioner. For some reason I had developed a legitimate power steering fluid leak from the pump (this is four or five months later) so I changed the PS pump. Mean while, I changed two more SERP belts due to random shredding. Three months ago I experience serious serpentine belt shredding (thankfully no failure) and I start doing some hard core digging. Between visual inspections, and some remove and reinstall of idler pulleys I was clueless as to why my serpentine belts were getting absolutely shredded. THEN I take a six and a half hour trip north and on the way home my AC light in the cab randomly starts blinking, with the AC on and recirc off. I didn’t think much of it, I figured I just needed a shot of refrigerant on my way home from my trip, no biggie. Fast forward two months and I turn my AC on either recirc or recirc off and the AC light blinks within 20 seconds of me turning it on. Mind you, whenever the AC light blinks, it stops putting out cold air. I found a trouble shooting tree in the engine manual that talked about checking the magnetic clutch relay (of which mine was completely good) but I noticed my AC clutch was starting and stopping very abruptly whenever I turned the AC on. When I shut the engine off, I noticed my serp belt was F’ed. It looked like a mountain range. I started the engine again and stood on the passenger side of the engine bay and watched the belt running and noticed my harmonic balancer was wobbling like a freshly born calf. Upon visual inspection of that pulley I realized the rubber material inside it was done for. It took me eight or so months and six serpentine belts to realize that was the problem, but I changed it and GOOD LORD has it made a difference. The pulley I got was Dayco brand. If it fails prematurely I’ll probably replace it with the aftermarket one but for now I’m glad to just have properly replaced the pulley. It was a ghost gripe I finally figured out.
Im glad I saw this, I have been fighting with serp belt issues for a while now. Mine was wearing out the back of the belt quick, as well as chewing the inside rib off. I checked and replaced all of my idlers and it helped a little, but I'm still getting wear very quickly.( carry 2 belts in the vehicle at all times!)
I do see a very small amount of wiggle in the crank pulley and actually posted a video in the facebook group.
I guess my question is two part.

1- how much wobble did you have in yours? clearly more than I have because i haven't sprung any leaks yet..

2- how difficult was it to remove? I assume you have to pull some furniture off in front of it? any tips or tricks?

I currently have a full set of idlers and a new tensioner that I cannot return, Id love to actually fix the problem!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Flyguide83,

Super glad my post could be of some use to you. Hopefully I can help you further in your situation. Trust me, I know the headache. I too travel with extra serp belts, just one for me though. Actually right now my only issue (considering i'm using a belt that s not too damaged from the whole previous ordeal) is that I get some belt chirp on start-up when the engine, and belt, is cold. The belt warms up and expands much quicker than the engine warms up and the belt ultimately stops chirping maybe two minutes into my cold start drive. Only reason I haven't changed it is cause it that upon visual inspection the belt looks completely fine. I'll change it when it starts chirping consistently after it gets warm, but for now it's not an issue for me. I actually have a 1GR-FE 4Runner buddy who's started down the same journey as you and I too, I'll probably end up helping him out with his accessory drive system here in the next few months.

Anyways, to answer your questions:

1: I didn't formally measure the wobble as you would probably imagine, but I'd say it was greater than 1/8th of an inch but less than 1/2 of an inch. I hadn't necessarily realized it till after I'd changed almost everything else.

2: I'm not sure how versed you are on your garage mechanic skills, but I'd put it in the same bracket as changing a wheel hub assembly, but definitely doesn't require as much force- so ultimately easier than that in my opinion. I bracket them together because if I could've gotten a slide hammer into the space of my engine bay, it would've made the job move a little quicker than the pulley removal kit I used. The only "difficult" part was installing the new pulley. Take your time and be extra meticulous and firm when installing the new pulley. Before you pull the bad one, measure at various points on the pulley to the block and find some sort of clearance reference, and find consistencies. When you go to install the new one, it is imperative you install it as flat against the block as possible. Depending on how nice the pulley installer tool you use is will kind of help determine how easy it is to get a consistent push on the pulley to get it installed flush. I used a dinky spirit level to ensure mine was flush but it took me a few off and back ons to get it on right. If I was more meticulous my first couple times around I probably wouldn't have had that issue but I'm also super apt to learn about all these things as I go and I'm glad I can help people like you later down the road! As far as removing things is concerned, It sucks but you're gonna have to remove the radiator fan shroud and potentially the radiator fan. I believe the maint manual suggests removing the fan as well as the fan shroud. I tried accessing the pulley with the fan still on and it was a royal pain. I ended up removing the fan- which was another royal pain- but I believe I was able to properly access the pulley (physically with all the tools and whatnot) and get the bad one off and the new one on in better time than if I tried the entire process with the fan still on.

Know that as you go about changing pulleys, though you may find one that is obviously bad, if you just change that one, it's going to bring out the discrepancies in all the others. I firmly believe this is part of what caused my crank pulley to go ultimately, but I'm not a mechanical engineer... that's just my honest opinion about my observations as well as those of others. It's helpful because ultimately it'll help you properly diagnose bad pulleys sooner but it's kind of fatiguing to be working on the accessory drive system every weekend or so. As i started changing my pulleys out it got to the point where I was shredding serp belts and changing bad pulleys every weekend or so for about two and a half months straight. Good thing now is I don't have any more issues other than my cold start chirp due to what I believe is a prematurely worn belt but I've accepted my fate and have a backup serp belt for when my chirp becomes way more consistent.

Hope this reply was more helpful than it was long winded HAHA!

Feel free to shout at me as you continue on, I'm more than willing to help you out as best I can.

- whigglets
 

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G'Day,
Upside to pulling the shroud off the fan.... give the Rad a good clean while you are at it...you will be amazed how much junk is captured in the lower corners ...blocking the Rad and creating more heat..

Cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
 
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