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Discussion Starter #1
Installed in my garage using my hand and air tools. One jack, and two of my 4SUV (tall) jackstands, one $11 harbor freight spring compressor, and one 7$ harbor freight 3 way puller. (for upper ball joints)
Also, no help. Nadda. Just me and my two hands.

Front install went smoothly, sure, its a pain in the butt, but it went fine. Took 3 1/2 hours.

Rear, yea... it gave me problems. How the heck are you suppose to get that spring back in there with no pry bar? EVEN IF you had a pry bar, I cant see how it can be done with that new spacer. I couldnt push the axle down far enough, and the spring is just too dang long with the spacer. MAJOR pain in the arse.

I havnt read of anyone doing this, so I thought I'd mention it. If your doing this install in your garage, do this for the rear end:
Disconnect the rear brake line bracket on the drivers side (one 12mm bolt).
On the pass side there is a few wires running inside a plasic protector probably for the rear lock or ATRAC, just pull down on the upper metal bracket to give a little more play.
Place the flat bottom of your shiny new bottle jack on the drivers side axle, and crack that sucker up so that the top contacts the upward bump stop. You can even crank the little jack enough with your FINGERS to get the axle low enough so that the spring and spacer just slip right into place. Lower bottle jack making sure spring is seated properly.
Repeat on passenger side. (pass side axle needs to be cranked a little lower, still a piece of cake)

The springs go in with little effort with the assistance of the little bottle jack your FJ came with to push down on each side of the axle. Works like a charm and took me about 10 minutes to finish once I did this.

I know people have done this method before for similar applications, but Its just a good reminder that it can be done for a very easy installation of the rear spacer/spring.

FJ looks awesome! Its so dang dirty from Pismo beach, it just looks mean with the roof KC's and lift, and mud terrains and all the filth all over it....:roller:

edit> total installation time including a 10 minute dinner was 5 hrs and 40 minutes.
 

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Great tip. When I installed my OME I disconnected the rear sway-bar and the rear axle dropped down far enough to install the new springs. I did have to use a crowbar, but only to move the spring into place.
 

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I use a similar philosophy, except I refrain from using a jack on the axle- they can slip out.

What I do is when I take the tire off the side I'm working on, I lay it underneath the tire on the other side, then simply jack the truck up enough to slip the jackstand out, then lower it.

As the vehicle lowers, the mounted side flexes up and opens the side you are working on so much that usually the spring just falls out. (Obviously one loosens lines and disconnects the swaybar first)

No prying or compressing needed!
 

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Glad you are back...that is why you are the master! Can't wait for BMRA, the FJ is shaping up and ready to wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Valk, that might have been safer. Also a good tip.

unfortunately for me, my roofrack was hitting my garage opener with the tires about 3 inches off the ground, so I could go no higher!! I was forced to remove both tires to allow the axle to drop fully!

Anyhow I just snapped a few pictures of where it sits right now.
Edit> and no... it no longer fits in my garage with the KC's. I had to disconnect the cross bar they are mounted too and lay it down in order to get it out of the garage after the front was lifted...



 

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For the non-"gearheads" out there, 4 Wheel Parts Wholesalers charged $245 to install the Daystar kit which I thought was very reasonable so it became their task and not mine. Their price for the kit was $150 so for $400 and half a day it was done.
 

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Holy Crap! $400 just to cram spacers in? You could have simply pulled your coilover assemblies and gone to Pep Boys- $40 and an hour later both would be done and that's it.

There is nothing gearhead about stuffing spacers in... it's about the cheapest, simplist hack you can do. I'm surprised Walmart doesn't sell them... :rolleyes:
 

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Spacers went in front and back, I would expect a supporting vendor to know that? I guess "gearhead" is a relative term. Simply pulling coilovers is not so simple when one does not have the tools like a floor jack, jack stands, pickle fork, spring compressor, torque wrench, etc. The cost to rent all of the tools needed added to the cost of my time (which ain't cheap) and an alignment far out weighs the $245paid for the installation for me. Different strokes for different folks, I guess.
 

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Easy tiger, I do know that, and I also know that no tools are required to stuff spacers in the rear, so accordingly the front is the only part that requires specialized tools if you choose to do the whole thing yourself.

No worries, I realize not everyone enjoys working on vehicles... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Valkyrie said:
Easy tiger, I do know that, and I also know that no tools are required to stuff spacers in the rear, so accordingly the front is the only part that requires specialized tools if you choose to do the whole thing yourself.

No worries, I realize not everyone enjoys working on vehicles... :)
Well, I must say that I have always loved working on cars and trucks, I havnt always had the opportunity.

(i.e. living in an appartment with no garage.. etc) I do live in a house now, and have all the tools BTW...
 

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No worries. Same here regarding tools, space and such. I spent many years restoring mid-60's Corvette's and used to do it all. Since then and after 5 corporate relocations in teh States and currently here in Alberta the tools have been in storage and my time at a premium. Give me 8 years to retire and the MIG will burn once more.
 

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how's the kit holding up?
 

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My spacers(aluminum front only) were bought and installed for under $300.....Money well spent in my world.
 

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just an added tip for working the rear install, I too installed this by myself, in my garage, I found that lifting the opposing side and allowing the vehicle to push the opposing open side down gave me the space I wanted to just slide the spring in.

If you are working the passenger side, simply place the jack on the passenger side and slowly lift the jack up, I found (i have a 3ton rolling jack), as I lifted the passenger side the drivers side started to lower, and inturn allowed for more travel of the passenger side to free up that crucial, 1/2 inch needed to get that spring in.



 

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Just had a wild thought......Anyone ever heard of someone putting their lift kit on while the truck is in the garage, and then couldn't get it out of the garage? It might be one of those times where you would have to "dispose" of any witnesses. :rofl: :rofl:
 

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I wonder how the lights were working in that location?
 
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