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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Many of you may recall that in the spring, I did a suspension overhaul that removed spacers from my 6112 setup. My alignment cam bolts were also seized so I replaced the lower control arms as well. I also replaced the tie-rod ends as one had play. UCAs and brakes were untouched. I had a shop take the coil-overs apart to set the springs on a higher perch after removing the spacers but did all the disassembly and re-assembly of the suspension myself, save for the alignment... all torqued to spec. I also removed the anti-roll bar at this time.

Here are three noises I'm experiencing, which may or may not be related...

1. Clank, like a hammer hitting metal or two pieces of metal coming together abruptly, when the suspension is suddenly compressed, like hitting a pot hole or a speed bump. It sounds like both sides have this. It almost sounds like something is loose, but I've looked at all the bolts/connections on the suspension and they are good. I'm wondering if the lower shock bushings are gone and when the shock compresses under a certain force, the shock sleeve hits the retaining bolt. Not sure.

2. While driving both sides seem to make a subtle but audible continuous ticking sound. This can really only be heard driving with the windows down and next to a concrete barrier on the side of the road (to reflect the sound). It happens after a short drive - not when cold. I wonder if this is the wheel bearings?

3. Grinding sound from passenger side when coming to a stop. This only happens after the brakes get hot after doing several stops in a row at streetlights or coming down a series of hills. The grinding sound only happens as the vehicle is almost stopped... so maybe for the last rotation or less before it comes to a complete stop. The brakes seem to work fine otherwise, so I can't understand what might be causing this.

Any ideas on any of these?

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I have a couple questions / ideas for you. You stated those shocks are 6112, are those stock springs, the foam bumper and dust sleeve aren’t reused, is the spring rattling around on that lower spring rest? How many miles on your FJ? It might be time for new front wheelbearings. You can get bearings that have been pre - pressed ( assembled ) with new hubs from yotabearingsandhubs.com for a reasonable price versus dealer parts price.
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For item #1 have you inspected the sway bar links and sway bar bushings? I had a problem with one of the bolts coming loose on a link and it made a similar sound. As soon as I tightened the bolt the sound would go away. I could turn the sound on and off by rocking the truck in the driveway and by tightening or loosening the bolt. I’ve also heard of worn out bushings causing the bar to bang on the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks all... some specific responses...

I have a couple questions / ideas for you. You stated those shocks are 6112, are those stock springs, the foam bumper and dust sleeve aren’t reused, is the spring rattling around on that lower spring rest? How many miles on your FJ? It might be time for new front wheelbearings. You can get bearings that have been pre - pressed ( assembled ) with new hubs from yotabearingsandhubs.com for a reasonable price versus dealer parts price.
My FJ has 110K miles. The 6112s have the Bilstein springs in them. I'll double check that there's no play in there, but I can't imagine how that's possible as they are under a lot of tension. I did replace the top hats after taking out the spacers.

Most videos I've seen on YT for wheel bearing noise seem to indicate its a low pitch growl or howl sound. Mine is more like a high pitch squeak.

For item #1 have you inspected the sway bar links and sway bar bushings? I had a problem with one of the bolts coming loose on a link and it made a similar sound. As soon as I tightened the bolt the sound would go away. I could turn the sound on and off by rocking the truck in the driveway and by tightening or loosening the bolt. I’ve also heard of worn out bushings causing the bar to bang on the frame.
I don't have the sway bar or links installed, otherwise that would be a good potential culprit.

I got the complete bearing assembly from my local Toyota dealer. Not sure why folks are getting separate and pressing the bearings in themselves.
Interesting... Do you have a part number? And what do they charge for the complete assembly?
 

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Like I always say, anybody can be a parts changer but troubleshooting and get to the part that has the issue is the real thing. Im no mechanic by the way and I had to change many parts on my wife's Rav4 before getting to the problem that made me think and investigate how to troubleshoot before buying and changing any part. Man I hate suspension sounds because its no easy. But here is my 5 cents.

For number 1 and 2. I dont think this problem is the bearings. When my bearings failed I could hear a high pitch continuous sound like "geeeeeee" since the bearings are not rotating properly they get really hot and they damage your ABS sensor. So if your ABS sensors are OK then it might not be your bearings. My bearings were Toyota Original OEM so if you already installed different bearings Im not sure if they will behave the same but still I dont think is your bearings.

I have seen videos where the CV Axles make the sound you are describing in number 2. Even if they are new. It seems that some brands dont make them properly. This can also be the sound you hear when the suspension compresses. Check on internet how to troubleshoot the CV Axles so you can properly diagnose before buying new ones. Toyota OEM are 700 USD each, so its better to make really sure if they are the problem.

For number 3. I would revise the break calipers if you have one stuck. If you havent changed the calipers or re-build them and only changed the break pads (like I did). The grease in your pistons inside the calipers dries and the cylinders get stuck having your brake pad always towching your disc brake making the noise you describe. The recommendation is to re-build the calipers every new brake pads (I think it can handle wearing down two sets of pads). If your calipers/pistons are OK. Then you can buy for 25 USD anti-squeal shims at the stealer ship with disc brake grease. If its only noise when breaking and everything is ok with the calipers/pistons these shims can prevent noise when breaking.

I hope I was able to give you more ideas on where to look for. Good Luck




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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So in consideration of a seized calliper possibly causing one of these noises, I got myself an IR thermometer and then did a test where I drove for about a mile and then rolled to a stop without using the brakes. All discs were at ambient temp... so I don't think there's an obvious caliber issue. Maybe I'll try it for a longer distance and see what happens with temps. And maybe also try reproducing the grinding noise from #3 and measuring temps then to see what's going on.
 

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So in consideration of a seized calliper possibly causing one of these noises, I got myself an IR thermometer and then did a test where I drove for about a mile and then rolled to a stop without using the brakes. All discs were at ambient temp... so I don't think there's an obvious caliber issue. Maybe I'll try it for a longer distance and see what happens with temps. And maybe also try reproducing the grinding noise from #3 and measuring temps then to see what's going on.
Sure, do that. The caliper re-build kit costs 25 USD at your nearest Toyota stealership, but it requires a lot of time to do all work. It took me a day to re-build each. Its simple but its very time consuming. Especially when you are married, "Honey, lets go get the kids". "Honey, lunch is ready". "Coffee is ready". I probably spent more time chating and on the phone playing chess than working on the calipers. But it was worth it. With the time the seals of the pistons get hard and the piston seal is the thing that retracts the piston. Its very minimum but thats all it needs to prevent from touching the brake disc.

You can also lift the truck on the front and check if the tires rotate freely. Remember for the temperature laser to test the outer disc side and the inner disc side as the caliper has 4 pistons. Im not sure if you can do the inner side as there is the guard plate. Anyway is a good try.

Good luck.
 

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For sound No 1, have you checked your bash plates? I have an issue where any slight flex in the font end, causes the plates to clang metal on metal even though the bolts are tight. If I undo the bolts or remove the plates, the noise doesn't occur
 

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Sound #1
Given your description of the noise as a "Clank" I'm not sure if the following is what would cause that.
I had a groan/knocking noise when rolling over somthing like a speed bump. It turned out to be that the alignment adjuster bolts in the LCA had lossened slightly. I torqued them and the noise went away.
 

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Yeah, I'd check your skid plates for sand and gravel in them.... I had a weird noise and it turned out to be the skid plates clicking/twanging whenever the frame flexed even a little bit.

The grinding noise when braking.... do you have a rust ridge on your rotor? (seems like your FJ is pretty rust free so I'm doubting this, but ya never know).

To replace wheel bearings I just got my mechanic to replace them when needed.... I think it was around 3-400 bucks.

Good luck!
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah, I'd check your skid plates for sand and gravel in them.... I had a weird noise and it turned out to be the skid plates clicking/twanging whenever the frame flexed even a little bit.

The grinding noise when braking.... do you have a rust ridge on your rotor? (seems like your FJ is pretty rust free so I'm doubting this, but ya never know).

To replace wheel bearings I just got my mechanic to replace them when needed.... I think it was around 3-400 bucks.

Good luck!
I just put new skid plates on (ARB) and the clank sound was there with the old stock plates and new plates, and it started after I did the front-end work, so I'm pretty sure its not the skids.

Do you know what wheel bearings you got? I assume the mechanic just got them from Lordco or something?

Sound #1
Given your description of the noise as a "Clank" I'm not sure if the following is what would cause that.
I had a groan/knocking noise when rolling over somthing like a speed bump. It turned out to be that the alignment adjuster bolts in the LCA had lossened slightly. I torqued them and the noise went away.
I will check those... good idea... thanks!
 

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Did you tighten the UCA when it was on the ground? I think it needs weight on it to be proper.

Not sure what wheel bearing they used ... I can find out if needed though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Did you tighten the UCA when it was on the ground? I think it needs weight on it to be proper.

Not sure what wheel bearing they used ... I can find out if needed though.
I did tighten the LCA bolts when on the ground. I never touched the UCA. And then the alignment shop did the alignment with the weight on the wheels. But it's worth double checking all the bolts to be sure nothing is loose. No need to check on the source of the wheel bearing... I'll check around with my local auto parts stores to see what they carry.
 

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I did tighten the LCA bolts when on the ground. I never touched the UCA. And then the alignment shop did the alignment with the weight on the wheels. But it's worth double checking all the bolts to be sure nothing is loose. No need to check on the source of the wheel bearing... I'll check around with my local auto parts stores to see what they carry.
The first time I had the issue with the loose LCA adjuster bolts was not too long after I had it aligned.
 
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