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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi to all you Gurus.

First of all: I'm new to the board. It's overwhelming. You folks rock, really. Never seen such a useful board before. I mean it!

Second: Yep, I DID search the board and spent hours reading. In case I didn't find the thread answering my question, please be gentle - I really tried...

My Rig: '07 FJC TRD SE 6 speed manual transmission

My Prob: I am seeking a solution to disable ABS and/or VSC and having only the lights in my dash lighten up that show this state and not lighten up the lights for the locked center diff or rear diff although they're not locked. I find it confusing to tell me states of the vehicle that are not real...

What I tried so far: I started with the unplug hack (Thread: how to disable VSC (it works)). As my reading wasn't thourough enough I missed the point that ABS is still active with this solution. Anyway, I installed a switch. I cut the purple wire on connector A14 as described in the Thread Install of VSC cancel switch. When throwing the switch (which cuts the connection of the purple wire) the following lights on my dash fire up:

Slamming the brakes on a dirt road proofed that ABS is still working with this hack (as I said before, I could have read it :thinkerg:)

So I progressed to the hack described in Thread http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/4x4-off-road-tech/50341-2008-vsc-disable-info.html?highlight=vsc.
When I ground the blue wire w/ yellow stripe and silver bars on connector A4, the following fires up:


Grounding the grey wire on connector A14 I see this on my dash:


To my understanding, this behaves correct and as expected. ABS will be deactivated only in 4L (locked rear diff or not), right?

As I'm not willing to do donuts and burnouts (need more hp for that with full time 4wd) I don't care too much about disabling VSC. My focus lies on that f***ing ABS. I encountered a situation in Libya this year where I was doing about 85-90 mph on a gravel road that almost led into wreckage of my rig. I spotted a ditch and wanted to brake. ABS kept me from slowing down b/c all 4 wheels tended to lock. Of course!!! I needed to lock them. Anyway I decided to push it and let my suspension do it (had no other choice because ABS' attempt to save my live made the car unstable as hell). Wasn't too bad though. But there will be a situation where I really need to stop and I don't know why, but I really like my car do what I wan't to do...

So here's the question:
Will there be a solution that lets me switch of ABS (in combination with VSC will be O.K.) that doesn't fire up lights on my dash not representing the real state of my FJ? Any help or hint is highly appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hi @all again!

I'm continuing my investigations. Maybe I stumbled across something that could be useful.

The holy Workshop / Repair Manual says the following on page BC-50:
FAIL-SAFE CHART
1. FAIL SAFE OPERATION
  • If there is a problem with any sensor signals or hydraulic brake booster systems, the skid control ECU prohibits the power supply to the actuator in the hydraulic brake booster and informs the ECM of VSC system failure.
    The hydraulic brake booster turns off solenoids and the ECM shuts off the VSC control (traction control signal) from the skid control ECU accordingly, the result of which is as if the ABS, TRAC and VSC systems were not installed.
    ABS control is prohibited, but EBD control continues as far as possible. If EBD control is impossible, the BRAKE warning light comes on to warn the driver (See page BC-41).
  • If system components have any malfunctions before starting control, the operation stops immediately. If system components have any malfunctions during control, the control stops gradually so as not to trigger
    a sudden change in vehicle conditions. If it is impossible to control the systems, the warning light comes on to inform the driver of the malfunction
    in the systems (See page BC-41).
HINT:​
  • If the ABS, BA, TRAC, A-TRAC, VSC and AUTO LSD systems malfunction, the brake system will operate normally without ABS, BA, TRAC, VSC and AUTO LSD controls.
  • If the hydraulic brake booster malfunctions, a gradual loss of brake performance is expected, and ABS, BA, TRAC, A-TRAC, VSC and AUTO LSD system controls are prohibited.
So, any of you Pro's please chime in and tell me if this is a way to go. One needs to just unconnect one of the speed sensors on the wheels and the whole system goes down, right? As the EBD (Electronic Brake Force Distribution) remains working the whole thing seems pretty safe. One can expect braking like in the old days. Lock those wheels!!!:rocker:

Has anyone been :flame:vil enough to do it? If so, please let us know!

Alternetively I thought about those fuses stated on the pic below (Repair Manual page BC-3):

Any ideas what happens if one just pulls one of them out?
Same question: Has anyone been :flame:vil enough to do it?

Another question: What about error codes / freeze frame data? Do we fill up the memory with trouble data? How about thoses other hacks? Do they generate errors as well? Actually I don't care, b/c warranty is over, I just like to know. So I can tell my workshop when they check my FJC for the next time that they don't need to worry about ABS / VSC or whatsoever related errors b/c I generated them ;-)

DISCLAIMER: All I want is knowledge / hints related to those systems. I do NOT encourage anybody to switch off very helpful safety systems on their cars. I buckle up, leave all those helpers active when driving on public roads. I don't drink and drive. You shouldn't either! Peace!
 

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The only real way to do this is to fool the ecu that the rear locker is locked. This disables all traction controll and abs. The lights would all be accurate with the exception of the indicator light showing the rear locked,where in reality it is not.
 

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I had a 96 4 runner, that I just pulled the abs fuse. It worked but the light was always on because the servo couldn't cycle itself on start up. I just pulled the light from the dash.Not going to do that to the FJ. ABS on pavement is good.It is scary in dirt as you know. I am going to do the cut the blue/yellow wire but am going to put a switch on it. That way I can still have ABS and all that other stuff when on the highway. Then turn it all off when I hit dirt.This fools the ecu that the rear locker is locked. The ECU automaticly shuts down all traction and braking aids. On the 2008 model the A Trac can still be used, and there is a hack for that on the 2007. As far as lights go all the lights in your second set of lights are accurate, with the exception of the locker light. But you know your locker isn't on when your going 80 down a dirt road anyway. Cut it throw a switch on it, ignore that locker light, and enjoy the best of both worlds.
 

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Put my switch in and it works perfectly. The locker light didn't come on either as I expected. No check engine light or anything weird.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The only real way to do this is to fool the ecu that the rear locker is locked. This disables all traction controll and abs. The lights would all be accurate with the exception of the indicator light showing the rear locked,where in reality it is not.
Put my switch in and it works perfectly. The locker light didn't come on either as I expected. No check engine light or anything weird.
Good news, cnckart! Only Problem is, I didn't have the time to play around with it...

I assume you're talking about the one shown on the picture as "REAR DIFFERENTIAL LOCK INDICATOR SWITCH", right?



Where's that wire running to? Or better question: where's a good position to find it and cut it for the switch? I don't want to run wires all the way across my rig...

Edit / part of the answer: All of those wires need to run into the 4WD ECU, right?



So, this might be closest to my switch. Please let me know witch wire to cut...

THX!

:cheers:
 

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This is very interesting. I can't wait to see what you end up doing. Like someone else said, I had '96 Ford Explorer that all I had to do was remove the ABS fuse before going off-road. Nice and simple.
 

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iPhone bump
 

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Man a blast from the past. I guess I forgot to confirm which plug it was. Anyways, it's been a long time since I've done this and can't remember what plug it was. Here is a pic though. This shows the blue/yellow wire that I put the switch on. This is located behind the driver side kick panel. Hope that helps.:cheers:


IMG_0139 by cnckart, on Flickr
 

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Referenced over here.

Hope as is still relevant.
 

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OK - Old thread revival...
Does anyone know if this works on a '14?

I have the rear difflock, and I know I have the VSC/TRC disable switch, which works fine. I just want to disable ABS as well when I'm offroad. If anyone has any better way of disabling ABS with a switch on the fly (no unplugging reservoir plugs, no fuse removal) and keeping ATRAC without having to reboot the car to toggle ATRAC, then I'd love to hear it (I've searched high & low).

Thanks in advance!
 

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Glad you revived it because I'm not having any luck adding a switch to disable VSC to my Superstar555 ATRAC+DIFF lock hack.

Are these geniuses who figured out all these hack still around?

Many of the threads I read have dead links to the accompanying photos in that thread which stops me dead in my trails.

I know that we are encouraged to search first, which is what I do most of the time but this mod has me searching nonstop and I'm still searching because I don't want to start a new thread to ask. Hmmm..


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There's a few hacks on that but I think this will do it. I'm going to pull the pin tonight & see what happens.... wish me luck

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It's an '07 my friend.


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If you do the no cut atrac+diff lock hack, and you remove the +12V you will have vsc/trac/abs all off. I simply ordered a switch to toggle it. Mine is an 07 as well.

On top of that you can do the diff lock on demand cut and ground and it wont effect the mod above.
 
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