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About to tackle this in my garage this weekend, wish me luck. I ordered a prebuilt from ECGS and I hope this is the only problem when I crack her open.

After reading the OP's redo, it looks like I don't have to separate the calipers. I'm assuming I just have to unbolt the break like to flex the few inches the shafts have to come out.

Should I pull the shafts? could debris from the gears get past that?
No need to pull the shaft, but be sure to disconnect the wheel speed sensor cable...it's easy to forget/miss and you don't realize you didn't till you have no speedo or odo. I learned this the hard easy way.

Also, locking the diff prior to starting helps with removal too.

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No need to pull the shaft, but be sure to disconnect the wheel speed sensor cable...it's easy to forget/miss and you don't realize you didn't till you have no speedo or odo. I learned this the hard easy way.

Also, locking the diff prior to starting helps with removal too.

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Thanks. I might try to do video of this if I can get some extra hands.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
That was an oversight on my part. I should have labeled the P/N as 06-09. Sorry about that. Other than the gasket how did it go for ya?
 

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It was as big as of b!7ch as the front. LOL.

When you mentioned that you should install the locker in the position that you took it out, well that only works if you didn't bump it into the locked position with the pass. side axle while your monkeying around pulling it out. Apparently I did this because it was in (locked) when I took it out so that's how I reinstalled.... Enter a Christmas tree of dash lights when I started the truck. Luckily I decided to check it before I put the oil in the diff, so removing the locker actuator and using a flat head screwdriver to unlock it wasn't too big a deal. In fact I'd recommend that everyone just install the 3rd with the locker in the locked position since it's a tad smaller and thus easier to get into the axle housing. Then with the wheels off the ground slide the locker gear over.

Still though this this and the clamshell DIY were a huge help to see and understand whats going on. Muchas thank yous :cheers:
 

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Just ordered the 3rd from ecgs. I was recommended to use non-synthetic 85w 140 gear oil because they've had better success with it on their gears.

Can anyone chime in on this?

I've always used synthetic Mobile 75w90 on rear diff, front diff, and transfer case. Anything I'm not aware off?
 

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Hmm, hadn't heard that before. I've heard it's best to use dino oil for the break-in, but haven't heard anything about using only dino oil or using a heavier weight. Are they Nitro gears? I'm using Amsoil 75W-90 in both diffs with Nitro gears from ECGS and haven't had any issues so far.
 

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I think the debate still continues on Dino versus Synthetic for gear oil.

Currie says Dino only and looks like ECGS agrees

I went with Dino on my last change. No problems but only 2K miles
 

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This is what I would go with.....

They built your third and will stand behind it if you use that oil.
Word.


That's what the recommended to me too and those were my same thoughts so it's what I'm using.
 

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So after 5 knuckle-busting hours later the new shiny ECGS 3rd is in. Followed the recommendation for 85w140 and it sounds 1000 times better than when I got it!

And weird enough, my drive shaft donkey kick went away. Maybe disconnecting the driveline and kicking it 100 times while trying to get all the "12" bolts loose, somehow re-balanced it?
 

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So after 5 knuckle-busting hours later the new shiny ECGS 3rd is in. Followed the recommendation for 85w140 and it sounds 1000 times better than when I got it!

And weird enough, my drive shaft donkey kick went away. Maybe disconnecting the driveline and kicking it 100 times while trying to get all the "12" bolts loose, somehow re-balanced it?
Most likely it was that you compressed the slip yoke when you took it down and moved the grease around/repacked it. If you didn't get it replaced under the TSB the original driveshafts were known to do that unless greased well.
 

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75/140 is going to give you your best protection. 75/90 is "ok"

I build differentials and am fairly well know around for my work:wink
PuddyMod
 

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Just have to say thanks for this write-up. My buddy and I tackled the rear 3rd on my 2007 this past weekend. A few "duh" moments but overall it went great. Going to stick with the 85w140 - it's what ECGS sent with the 3rd and their note with the shipment said to only use that.
 
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