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MOAB SUPERSTAR
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6,237 Posts
Just have to say thanks for this write-up. My buddy and I tackled the rear 3rd on my 2007 this past weekend. A few "duh" moments but overall it went great. Going to stick with the 85w140 - it's what ECGS sent with the 3rd and their note with the shipment said to only use that.
Congrats on the swap! I recently installed an 8.2 third/rear axle off a '13, and ECGS front, regearing to 4.56 and found the 85w140 recommended by ECGS was incredibly stiff in our subzero weather. Convo with them about it - they said ok to go lighter even during break-in given the local temps. So went to Lucas Dino 75w90 and much easier shifting. Gonna stick with that for front, rear and TC, as I've been hearing more and more people agreeing about non-synthetic for gears. But I may go back to 140 in the diffs for hard wheeling this summer in Moab - extra protection :rocker:
 

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Forum Beer Miester
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4,076 Posts
First off I want to thank the OP for a hell of write up, this helped me tremendously last weekend in my gear swaps. :rocker:

Also wanted to see if anyone else out there runs the Sprint Booster? You see since the swap I've turned my Booster off and noticed this thing is peppy as can be without it on and almost dangerous in sport mode. Can't wait to see how it pulls in the steep rocks!
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Haven't checked in here in a looooong time but I'm glad to see it is still getting some use.
Probably old news for the forum but per recommendations from both ECGS and Currie I'm no longer using synthetics in the diffs and have switched to heavier 75w140 oil.

No comment on the SB but I have been interested since catching wind in the now shutdown GB.
 

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MOAB SUPERSTAR
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6,237 Posts
First off I want to thank the OP for a hell of write up, this helped me tremendously last weekend in my gear swaps. :rocker:

Also wanted to see if anyone else out there runs the Sprint Booster? You see since the swap I've turned my Booster off and noticed this thing is peppy as can be without it on and almost dangerous in sport mode. Can't wait to see how it pulls in the steep rocks!
Look out Moab here we come! :rocker::rocker:
 

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Thank you, OP, for this article and pics. Dunno if this was mentioned already, but if you're swapping a rebuilt unit - make sure the diff lock motor is setup in total accordance with the FSM. Had to do the job twice - one for swapping the faulty diff and two - just to get the diff lock correctly. It's pretty easy, but the amount of work you need to do to get there... ugh!

So if your diff won't unlock after the swap - 99% that the motor was not rotated as it should have been.

I believe it's possible to adjust without pulling the diff again, but I also forgot about the liquid gasket, so only way for me was the hard one.
 

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Premium Member
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136 Posts
Just installed a new ECGS diff in my 07 6MT. Thanks for the write up, it definitely made it straight forward.

If you only raise the vehicle up just enough to get the wheels off the ground and detatch the elocker harness in three places you can leave the elocker in place and unbot it on the ground. After 137k I took the time to remove the calipers and replace the pads while I was there.

I did the removal one afternoon and the install the following morning. For some reason the axles must have slid back in so if if you're struggling to slide the diff all the way in, double check the axles are out. The only other mistake I made was to leave the e-brake on. This definitely needs to be disengaged if you want to get the axles back in :)
 

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I just completed a 3rd member swap. I can’t say enough about East Coast Gear Suppley (ECGS). Their customer service and price were pretty awesome. The Toyota dealership quoted me $3550 to do the swap. My coast was ~$750 (after the core charge). It was a lot of work, but so worth it. Here are some notes for my install on an ‘07:

I support via the frame and allowed the rear diff to hang freely. This allowed me to leave the rear sway bar in place. I did have to remove the ELocker before removing the 3rd member.

I replaced the rear bearings, seals, brake pads, rotors, and brake hardware.

When I cranked it up the first time, the diff was stuck in the locked position with the ABS, VSC, and other lights on. I could not disengage the lock. I then jacked up the rig again with the same setup and removed the locker motor only. While juggling the right wheel back and forth, I was able to put a screw driver into the differential and move the lock gear (or whatever it is called) to the unlocked position inside the diff. Whew. I reassembled and started the rig.....all was well.

What a difference! My old diff was screaming, and now it’s a smooth as silk ride.
 

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I just completed a 3rd member swap. I can’t say enough about East Coast Gear Suppley (ECGS). Their customer service and price were pretty awesome. The Toyota dealership quoted me $3550 to do the swap. My coast was ~$750 (after the core charge). It was a lot of work, but so worth it. Here are some notes for my install on an ‘07:

I support via the frame and allowed the rear diff to hang freely. This allowed me to leave the rear sway bar in place. I did have to remove the ELocker before removing the 3rd member.

I replaced the rear bearings, seals, brake pads, rotors, and brake hardware.

When I cranked it up the first time, the diff was stuck in the locked position with the ABS, VSC, and other lights on. I could not disengage the lock. I then jacked up the rig again with the same setup and removed the locker motor only. While juggling the right wheel back and forth, I was able to put a screw driver into the differential and move the lock gear (or whatever it is called) to the unlocked position inside the diff. Whew. I reassembled and started the rig.....all was well.

What a difference! My old diff was screaming, and now it’s a smooth as silk ride.
So when you order a new 3rd member from ECGS does it come ready to install? By that I mean you dont have to do anything to it besides just bolting it in? Just curious. Any info would be great. :)
 

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So when you order a new 3rd member from ECGS does it come ready to install? By that I mean you dont have to do anything to it besides just bolting it in? Just curious. Any info would be great. :)
Sorry for the delay.
It’s comes ready to Bolt on with the exception of the ELocker motor. That will need to be removed from the old 3rd and placed on the new. In my case, I had to remove it before removing the old 3rd from the rig. Hope that helps.
 
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