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I'm coming up on 70k, so I have the usual service to handle and in addition I want to flush out the tranny..
I have the fluid (16quarts) and am not afraid to tackle this chore.

My intent is to:
Disconnect a line up front (at my tranny cooler) since it's easy to get to.
Open the filler plug on the side of the tranny and stick in a filler tube and funnel.
Put a drain bottle under the open line.
Start it up to pump out a couple of quarts at a time.
Shut it down
Add new fluid in the amount pumped out.
Repeat until I use up all the fluid that I have.

Check the level and top off as required.

Has anyone done this already?
Is my procedure going to work?
What am I missing? I've read that I should reset the ECU so it will re-learn the shift patterns. What else..

Thanks for any feedback (please don't tell me to take it to the dealer).
 

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I'm ready to do the same, I can't believe the dealerships say it's a sealed unit to last the life of the truck. I want to flush out the system also and seems the best way as I can figure is the way you describe above.

Come on all you experts! Let's hear it from you :bigthumb:
 

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I've done it already. You've got it exactly right, except that there's no need to reset the ECU. Keep flushing until all the ATF coming out of the cooler line is fresh clean sweet and new. The easiest way is to put all four corners of the truck up on jack stands and put an empty 5 gallon bucket under the cooler line so you don't have to empty it during the procedure.
 

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Sounds like a great way to flush out the entire system. I would probably want to drop the pan to replace the transmission filter as well.

What are your thoughts on installing a remote oil filter on the return side? A good flowing unit like a K&N oil filter should work right?

Thoughts?
 

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I've done it already. You've got it exactly right, except that there's no need to reset the ECU. Keep flushing until all the ATF coming out of the cooler line is fresh clean sweet and new. The easiest way is to put all four corners of the truck up on jack stands and put an empty 5 gallon bucket under the cooler line so you don't have to empty it during the procedure.
Hi 1911 :wave: Do you think 5gl of fluid is enough to flush the system out with starting the engine draining a few quarts then adding a few quarts and keep doing this procedure? When you do this does the Old fluid keep mixing with the new fluid added? Meaning that half is new and half new is emptied into the Bucket?
 

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Hi 1911 :wave: Do you think 5gl of fluid is enough to flush the system out with starting the engine draining a few quarts then adding a few quarts and keep doing this procedure? When you do this does the Old fluid keep mixing with the new fluid added? Meaning that half is new and half new is emptied into the Bucket?
I think you're right.

Best way may be to:

1. Drain the pan. Note how much fluid was drained.
2. Remove the transmission pan.
3. R/R the transmission filter.
4. Install transmission pan.
5. Refill the transmission with fresh WS fluid (refill the same amount that was drained).
6. bartt's procedure as outlined in the first post.
7. Transmission fill procedure per FSM.

This might also be the perfect time to add a good transmission cooler as well. Crap, this is getting expensive! :)
 

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I think you're right.

Best way may be to:

1. Drain the pan. Note how much fluid was drained.
2. Remove the transmission pan.
3. R/R the transmission filter.
4. Install transmission pan.
5. Refill the transmission with fresh WS fluid (refill the same amount that was drained).
6. bartt's procedure as outlined in the first post.
7. Transmission fill procedure per FSM.

This might also be the perfect time to add a good transmission cooler as well. Crap, this is getting expensive! :)
Have fun removing the pan on that transmission. It may give you a hard time!
That's if you can find it!:)
 

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I would probably want to drop the pan to replace the transmission filter as well.
There is no replaceable filter, only a metal "strainer" for the valve body. Waste of time to drop the pan IMO.


What are your thoughts on installing a remote oil filter on the return side? A good flowing unit like a K&N oil filter should work right?

Thoughts?
You'd have to be real careful about doing that; modern auto trannies are sensitive to the correct hydraulic pressure and I would be hesitant to introduce any back pressure into the system.


Hi 1911 :wave: Do you think 5gl of fluid is enough to flush the system out with starting the engine draining a few quarts then adding a few quarts and keep doing this procedure? When you do this does the Old fluid keep mixing with the new fluid added? Meaning that half is new and half new is emptied into the Bucket?
You won't need anything like 5 gallons of new fluid, IIRC a couple of gallons was all I needed. According to the FSM, refilling the system including a new (dry) torque converter is only 6 quarts, so 8 quarts should give you a little extra to flush everything. The empty 5-gallon bucket for a drain pan is just for convenience and less mess; the fluid comes out under pretty good pressure and if you use a regular oil drain pan you will likely splash ATF all over your floor. You still need to run the engine for about 60 seconds at a time, shut it off, and add more ATF and repeat. The auto tranny oil pump is very efficient and it will pump ATF out pretty fast. You don't want to run it dry, just low then refill every iteration. This procedure does a pretty good job of pushing the old fluid out with the new, and not mixing very much if at all. It is pretty obvious when all the old ATF is out because the fluid coming out of the cooler return line will turn bright red (new fluid) pretty much all at once. I always run it for at least another cycle after that just to make sure.

Does this answer your question?


2. Remove the transmission pan.
3. R/R the transmission filter.
4. Install transmission pan.
Not to belabor the point, but again, there is no transmission filter.


Have fun removing the pan on that transmission. It may give you a hard time!
That's if you can find it!:)
The pan is pretty easily accessible, but again there is reason to remove it unless you need to service the valve body underneath it.
 

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There is no replaceable filter, only a metal "strainer" for the valve body. Waste of time to drop the pan IMO.

Not to belabor the point, but again, there is no transmission filter.

The pan is pretty easily accessible, but again there is reason to remove it unless you need to service the valve body underneath it.
It's my understanding that the strainer has a filtration media built into it. I have one on order so I'll confirm as soon as it's in my hands.
 

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I'm coming up on 70k, so I have the usual service to handle and in addition I want to flush out the tranny..
I have the fluid (16quarts) and am not afraid to tackle this chore.

My intent is to:
Disconnect a line up front (at my tranny cooler) since it's easy to get to.
Open the filler plug on the side of the tranny and stick in a filler tube and funnel.
Put a drain bottle under the open line.
Start it up to pump out a couple of quarts at a time.
Shut it down
Add new fluid in the amount pumped out.
Repeat until I use up all the fluid that I have.

Check the level and top off as required.

Has anyone done this already?
Is my procedure going to work?
What am I missing? I've read that I should reset the ECU so it will re-learn the shift patterns. What else..

Thanks for any feedback (please don't tell me to take it to the dealer).
This is exactly what I am planning but without the TCM/ECM reset. No need to IMO. I have not done this yet on the FJ but I have done this exact procedure on other AW transmissions and it works great.

I am not planning on dropping the pan. I'll drain ~2 qts at a time because you can't fill it as fast as it pumps out and you don't want to run it dry.

If the ATF coming out is dark brown, then it will take about 12-16 qts to get the new fluid coming out to be cherry red. Make sure you use a CLEAR output hose so you can monitor the color of the ATF coming out.

You can jumper the OBD port to get the ATF dash light to come on when it is time to verify the fluid level but you should be pretty darn close if you put in exactly what you take out.

DEWFPO
 

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It's my understanding that the strainer has a filtration media built into it. I have one on order so I'll confirm as soon as it's in my hands.
Good deal, I would like to know what it is like. The FSM does not ever mention any R&R of the strainer, even in a complete rebuild.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the feedback guys.
Experience is always the best teacher, if only I could learn to listen more often.

The clear tube is a great tip!
I figured that I would run the old fluid out into a an old 5Qt motor oil jug so I would know pretty acurately how much was pumped out each time. Then I could drain that for the next cycle.
 

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You won't need anything like 5 gallons of new fluid, IIRC a couple of gallons was all I needed. According to the FSM, refilling the system including a new (dry) torque converter is only 6 quarts, so 8 quarts should give you a little extra to flush everything. The empty 5-gallon bucket for a drain pan is just for convenience and less mess; the fluid comes out under pretty good pressure and if you use a regular oil drain pan you will likely splash ATF all over your floor. You still need to run the engine for about 60 seconds at a time, shut it off, and add more ATF and repeat. The auto tranny oil pump is very efficient and it will pump ATF out pretty fast. You don't want to run it dry, just low then refill every iteration. This procedure does a pretty good job of pushing the old fluid out with the new, and not mixing very much if at all. It is pretty obvious when all the old ATF is out because the fluid coming out of the cooler return line will turn bright red (new fluid) pretty much all at once. I always run it for at least another cycle after that just to make sure.

Does this answer your question?

Thank You so much! :cheers: I wonder how discolored the fluid will be with almost 75K onboard.
 

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The total atf capacity of the A750F is between 11 & 12 qts.

DEWFPO
 

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The way to know that you have the correct amount of fluid in the tranny is to remove the overflow bolt on the passenger side. The fluid should just trickle out when the motor is idling.
cruzrman
 

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Anyone have a picture of the trans line going to the cooler? I`m planning on doing this myself and just want to get the general idea where this line is. Don`t want to chance undoing the wrong one. Thanks Steve
 

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It's my understanding that the strainer has a filtration media built into it. I have one on order so I'll confirm as soon as it's in my hands.
Please let me know if there is a reason to drop the pan.

This is exactly what I am planning but .... use a CLEAR output hose so you can monitor the color of the ATF coming out.

You can jumper the OBD port to get the ATF dash light to come on when it is time to verify the fluid level but you should be pretty darn close if you put in exactly what you take out.
DEWFPO
Can you tell me what pins to jumper? This will help do what is being described below...

The way to know that you have the correct amount of fluid in the tranny is to remove the overflow bolt on the passenger side. The fluid should just trickle out when the motor is idling.
cruzrman
I believe the ECU will blink a code on the dash when the temp is correct and THEN you check the the fluid. Mine was a little low when I first got it and the level made a serious difference depending on tranny temperature.

This is perfect info guys, thanks much! Dealer wants $299 to do it!!
 

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1911 posted these instructions a while back in another thread and I have just reposted and added my 2 cents :

You can short the terminals on the OBD plug between CG (4) and TC (13). CG is pin #04 (top row, 4th from the left). TC is pin #13 (bottom row, 5th from the left), and the "A/T OIL TEMP" light in your dash will turn on when it reaches 115 F and will blink if it exceeds 130 F.



After reaching the correct ATF temp, run through all the gears a few times, remove the level-check plug from the bottom of the tranny oil pan, and add the correct ATF through the side fill port with a hand pump until it just barely trickles out of the level-check plug hole. Put the level-check and fill plugs back in and you are done.

Or, you could measure every single drop you took out and every single drop you put in and make sure it balances out.

DEWFPO
 

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Hi all

Just an Ideal?

- Have two buckets, one filled with clean trans oil and one empty.
- Hook a line from the trans cooler to the bucket with clean trans oil.
- Hook a line that went from trans to the trans cooler into the empty bucket.
- Run the FJ till all the clean oil has been sucked up.

Conclusion:
No issue with pump going dry and trans oil system should be flushed out as much as possible.

What do you guys think of this?

George
 
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