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Just a quick follow up on my transmission flush. Its been a week now since the flush and I noticed something maybe others can confirm. The truck seems to shift smoother but at a lower rpm with no loss in performance. My cruise rpm is lower in all gears. Which should translate into lower mpg.

I cannot make a 1:1 correlation because I also changed my MAF at the same time. My last fill up rendered 19.5 mpg whereas I was getting 18.3 mpg prior to that. So a few more fill ups should confirm the fuel improvement and for the record I use 87 octane 2nd tier gas like Pilot, Family express, Flying J.

:wave:

BTW I just added a Magnefine inline filter 3/8" size two days ago and have seen no ill effect on proper shifting / slower shifting. Its $25 well spent to clean the ATF all day long to prolong the tranny's life. The next step will be to add a cooler before the summer to prolong the ATF life. Now in the the winter, my autometer gauge shows a running temp of 125-130 F*

*Am I the only one who writes the "in" mileage on the oil filter? That way I cant forget to change the oil.

206K
 

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It's my understanding that the strainer has a filtration media built into it. I have one on order so I'll confirm as soon as it's in my hands.
If you plan to replace the pan filter, use only an OEM toyota filter. Some aftermarket filters dont mate to the valvebody properly and do not seal. Then peolpe wonder why the transmission does not shift correctly.

So let me also add that the "filter" in the pan is nothing more than a screen whether its fiber or metal screening. Think about it. If the "filter" actually was a true filter it would clog and starve the transmission of fluid. Unlike the engine oil filter where oil is pumped thru the filter, a transmission sucks oil thru the screen. If it ever filled with grime, it would stop the transmission from functioning. So even the best "filter" is nothing more than a screen and does not need replacing unless you have had a catastrophic failure and chunks of metal are flowing thru the trans. Also, the pan magnets are marginally effective in catching metal debris in the ATF. Let me show you what the magnefine filter caught on my daughters RX300. Gee, if the pan magnets did such a good job, the magent in the Magnefine filter would be clean.

https://youtu.be/f6QeXRMp53Y
 

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So I just got done re-reading this entire thread and I have a question or two.
My FJ has about 60k miles on it and the transmission has about 10k on it, (yeah, I should have put the cooler on sooner). Now I am wanting to add the transmission cooler and am wondering if there are any concerns or precautions to take when doing the full fluid replacement with the low miles on the transmission. The cooler I am considering is the Long Tru-Cool LPD Transmission Oil Cooler 4454.


Since I changed the diffs and transfer case with Amsoil at 30k my plan was to stick with the same brand and go with ATL.

So in short:
Are there concerns or precautions to heed when replacing fluid or strong reasons not to do it in a transmission with around 10k miles?
Is the AMsoil ATL the best severe duty variant?

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread!
 

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Anyone have a current link with pictures? All the threads I've searched the picture hosting is all down.

Trying to do this over the weekend. Thanks in advance!
 

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So in short:
Are there concerns or precautions to heed when replacing fluid or strong reasons not to do it in a transmission with around 10k miles?
Is the AMsoil ATL the best severe duty variant?

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread!
It's really unnecessary at this low mileage (10k) unless you beat the crap out of your trans, overheated it or have money to burn.

I can't say which ATF is best but the ATL is what I've been using in mine. I did the first full fluid exchange at ~60k (I should have done it at 40k or 50k) and I've been just pan draining the 3+ qts every 35k miles thereafter. The trans still shifts and feels like new. I'm at 136K now.

DEWFPO
 

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So in short:
Are there concerns or precautions to heed when replacing fluid or strong reasons not to do it in a transmission with around 10k miles?
Is the AMsoil ATL the best severe duty variant?

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread!
I have completely changed all the fluid in my trans twice at 50K intervals. The first was almost black when it was changed. The second at 100K and the fluid still had a lot of red to it. At 130K I did just the pan drain and the fluid was really red still. So I just do the pan drain now at 30K intervals and call it good.

10K intervals would just be a waste of money :)
 

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Absolutely agree with Sanderhawk. Once I got my shuddering trans under control which took 2 drain and fills in a month?
If I remember correctly. I plan to do this once a year from here on in. I do about 25k to 30 k a year. It's an easy job that takes very little time and cost and is very noticeable to the performance of the FJ trans.

The FJ trans is so finicky I used and plan on using Toyota OEM fluid.
 

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Just because the W/S transmission fluid costs twice as much doesn't actually mean it is twice as good...
Toyota dealerships have charged absorbent prices for their parts and have all of us believing that if we don't use them we're likely getting defective parts...all part of their sales pitch..
Thanks for your post on transmission fluid change..
 

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Its not a matter of which is the best. Amsoil may be hands down 10x better. The problem is the manufacturers design their transmissions around certain fluids with specific properties. If Amsoil or royal purple or Redline dont have the friction modifiers that Toyota WS has, the clutches will engage differently And performance will be affected. Its not an oil, its a fluid. I dont subscribe to that with motor oil, but for ATF I use only OEM.
 

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Its not a matter of which is the best. Amsoil may be hands down 10x better. The problem is the manufacturers design their transmissions around certain fluids with specific properties. If Amsoil or royal purple or Redline dont have the friction modifiers that Toyota WS has, the clutches will engage differently And performance will be affected. Its not an oil, its a fluid. I dont subscribe to that with motor oil, but for ATF I use only OEM.
I replaced my tranny fluid with Amsoil and it definitely affected performance....it was way better. Much crisper shifts and it felt like a new vehicle. I did it with 190k and drove it another 30k and it was much better performing then when I bought it at 167k.
 

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I replaced my tranny fluid with Amsoil and it definitely affected performance....it was way better. Much crisper shifts and it felt like a new vehicle. I did it with 190k and drove it another 30k and it was much better performing then when I bought it at 167k.
Not doubting your resolve but from a pure scientific perspective you don't know if you might have gotten the same result from simply changing to new fluid.
 

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Not doubting your resolve but from a pure scientific perspective you don't know if you might have gotten the same result from simply changing to new fluid.

Correct but if you read what I quoted they implied even if Amsoil was better it might not work as well as the Toyota WS. So my point was it worked at least as well. Maybe if Toyota WS actually lasted "the lifetime of the car" as Toyota claims then it would be worth the money. However as many of us can attest to it does not. Sadly they took the same approach in my Sequoia (sealed tranny) so I will have to do the same replacement in it as my FJ.
 

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Correct but if you read what I quoted they implied even if Amsoil was better it might not work as well as the Toyota WS. So my point was it worked at least as well. Maybe if Toyota WS actually lasted "the lifetime of the car" as Toyota claims then it would be worth the money. However as many of us can attest to it does not. Sadly they took the same approach in my Sequoia (sealed tranny) so I will have to do the same replacement in it as my FJ.
Most manufacturers have now gone to what is known as a "sealed tranny". What this really means is that they removed the dipstick. They did this for several reasons including ease of assembly on the line, cost savings of the part itself, but most importantly taking away the dipstick means you have to go to the dealer for any transmission service because you can't check your own fluid anymore. In the old days, sales profits ran the dealership and service was a necessary evil. Nowadays sales profits are not enough to keep the ship afloat and the service department profits are needed more than ever. thus the dipstick disappeared.
As far as lifetime fluid is concerned, if you read the fine print, lifetime fluid needs to be changed under severe conditions. If you use your truck at all off-road, you are operating under severe conditions. I have worked in the transmission industry for over 50 years and if I have learned one thing about transmission longevity it's this. Changing your fluid on a regular basis is the key to a real lifetime transmission.
 

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Most manufacturers have now gone to what is known as a "sealed tranny". What this really means is that they removed the dipstick. They did this for several reasons including ease of assembly on the line, cost savings of the part itself, but most importantly taking away the dipstick means you have to go to the dealer for any transmission service because you can't check your own fluid anymore. In the old days, sales profits ran the dealership and service was a necessary evil. Nowadays sales profits are not enough to keep the ship afloat and the service department profits are needed more than ever. thus the dipstick disappeared.
As far as lifetime fluid is concerned, if you read the fine print, lifetime fluid needs to be changed under severe conditions. If you use your truck at all off-road, you are operating under severe conditions. I have worked in the transmission industry for over 50 years and if I have learned one thing about transmission longevity it's this. Changing your fluid on a regular basis is the key to a real lifetime transmission.
I know it's just a pain since they are sealed. However I call BS on the fine print being accurate. I would bet my FJ never went off road or anything serious before I bought it and it definitely needed changing. Sounds like a CYA measure on the part of Toyota. Thankfully you and others gave great instructions on how to fairly easily exchange the fluid and it did a world of good. I'm hoping I can apply the same technique to my Sequoia.
 

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I'm pretty sure Amsoil is $13-15/qt. I recall paying about $8/qt for Toy WS. Sure hope Amsoil feels better after spending that much lol. After reading this thread, reminded me that I need to get on my trans flush and cooler install.
You might want to switch dealers as it cost me $7.15 a QT. Even pure retail it was $10.
 

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You might want to switch dealers as it cost me $7.15 a QT. Even pure retail it was $10.
I had to research it but my mistake, I thought it was the performance line which is more expensive. At that point, I'm glad it worked out for you, it gives people more options for replacement to the Yota WS.
 

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