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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Tools
  • 3/8 and 1/2 drive sockets, ratchets and extensions.
  • 35 mm socket
  • 10 mm allen
  • E14 reverse torx
  • cheater bar
  • hammer
  • small standard screw driver
  • large standard screw driver
  • catch pan for diff fluid
  • jack and 4 stands
  • torque wrench
  • URL to service manual for torque specs and anything I missed
Parts
  • FIPG or suitable RTV. FIPG can be purchased at your local dealer but http://trdparts4u.com can get you a better price.
  • rebuilt or re geared clamshell
The standard DIY disclaimer applies, don't blame me if you break something or hurt your self doing this, know your limits. If possible having an extra set of hands is very helpful however this can be done solo.

Drain clamshell - remove the fill plug (top) first then the drain (bottom), the plugs are 10mm allen. If possible drive for a few minutes in 4WD to warm the gear oil.

Loosen Lugs on Front Tires

Lift and support front of the vehicle - chock rear tires, lift and support with jack stands, then remove wheels and set aside.

Remove Skids - unbolt the factory skid plates, 12mm bolts.

Remove Spindle Cab and Axle Nut
  • use a standard screw driver and a hammer to drive out the spindle cab. go slow and work your away around the cap to drive it our evenly and prevent damage as we will reuse this part.
  • remove the cotter pin and nut lock from the axle nut and loosen the nut. 35mm socket.
  • free the CV splines from the hub. with the nut threaded on a few turns strike the end of it with a hammer to loosen up the splines.
Disconnect Wheel Speed Sensor - unhook the plastic clip on the wiring harness.

Disconnect Tie Rods Ends
  • remove the cotter pin and loosen the tire rod nut at the outer end, 19mm nut.
  • thread the nut on a few turns and strike the end with a hammer to separate the tie rod from the spindle.
Lower Ball Joint Carrier - loosen the bolts from the underside of the spindle, 19mm two per side.

Disconnect Sway Bar Links - loosen and disconnect the sway bar from the spindle, 17mm nut one per side.

Separate the CV from the hub - you should now be able to swing hub assembly off the end of the CV and towards the rear of the vehicle. support it with a stand to help keep it out of your way.




Drive out CV Axles - the inner CV is held in by a snap ring and will need to be driven or pried out. i was able to get by with a large screw driver and a hammer. a few good wacks on the slide hammer notches and they began to slide out. pull them out and set aside. be sure to wear eye protection when hammering on your drift. you can also follow the procedure outlined here


Disconnect Drive Shaft - loosen the 4 drive shaft nuts and bolts, 14mm and suspend it from the bracket above.

Disconnect Clamshell Hoses - disconnect the vacuum line from the A.D.D. unit and if you can reach it the diff breather from on the top side of the clamshell. it's ok if you are unable to reach it at this point, you will be able to shortly.

A.D.D. Harness - disconnect the black wiring harness for the A.D.D. unit. there is also a grey harness above that will also need to be disconnected. unbolt the bracket holding the harness to the clamshell, 12mm bolt.

Left Diff Support Bracket - loosen the 3 19mm bolts on the drivers side support bracket. to loosen the bracket at the front you will most likely need to hold back up on the nut above. remove and set aside.


Right Diff Support Bracket - loosen the passanger side bracket at the front but leave it connected. you will most likely need to hold back up on the nut above. this will allow the carrier a bit of room to move around.

Disconnect Breather /Vacuum Bracket - there is a single bolt on the top of the clamshell holding the breather bracket. with the side support out you should be able to get a wrench in there, i had best luck accessing it from the drivers side.

Center Diff Support - you are now ready to unbolt the 2 17mm bolts on the center support. Place stands under the clamshell to prevent it from falling out and smashing you. one of the bolts is top side the other can be accessed from the bottom. alternatively you can unbolt the single allen bolt from the bottom side. it is some where between 11-13mm with these out you should be able to swing the unit forward and down to get it out.


Transfer parts -
UPDATE ECGS is no longer shipping the front diff with a clamshell stub shaft, you will need to transfer this part from your existing clamshell.
They have hosted a quick write up outlining the process. http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/files/PDF%20Files/toyota-clamshell-stub-shaft-removal.pdf

separate the E14 reverse torx bolts holding the A.D.D. carrier. clean all the old gasket material from the side and prep the replacement clamshell mating surface. i used a razor, brass brush and brake cleaner. take care not to gouge the surface.




give the surfaces one more spray with brake cleaner then when dry apply a thin layer of FIPG and assemble the carrier to the new clamshell within 15 minutes. torque the 4 bolts to 81 lb/ft.


Right Diff Support Bracket - clean and re grease the passenger side seals if necessary. get the bushing bolt and nut ready, you will use them in soon.

Center Support Bracket - if you disconnected the center support from the frame use the allen bolt to reattach it to the frame. torque to 64 lb/ft. this will give you a nice surface to rest the clamshell on when you swing it back in.

Re-install the clamshell - the unit will be significantly heavier with all the extra hardware (carrier assembly and support mount) bolted up but I chose to seal with FIPG on the bench rather than on the truck. using the passenger side bracket as a handle position your self under the truck while holding the diff. this part is doable by yourself if you can manage to make it on the creeper while holding the clamshell over your chest. press assembled unit up and onto the center bracket and attach the right side support bracket at the bushing up front. once this is done you can let go of the clamshell and take a well deserved break. when ready the bushing bolts and nuts should be torque to 101 lb/ft.


Reattach Breather /Vacuum Bracket - with the diff not fully locked in place you should have room to get a shot at the top breather bracket. remember it is a bit easier to access from the drivers side. reinstall the breather hose and route the vacuum line down a toward the A.D.D.

Left Diff Support Bracket - install the 3 19mm bolts on the drivers side support bracket. torque to 137 lb/ft. reattach the bracket at the front you will most likely need to hold back up on the nut above. torque to 101 lb/ft.


Center Support Bracket - bolt up the 2 17mm center support bolts, one top side on from the bottom. torque to 80 lb/ft.

A.D.D. Harness - reconnect the black wiring harness for the A.D.D. unit and the grey harness above that. reattach the bracket holding the harness to the clamshell, 12mm bolt.

CV Axles - from here on out you will be doing the following steps twice, once per side. CVs should go in back in the same side they came out of, although i believe they are a non side specific part. apply some oil on the splines and c-clip to help them slide into position. feed them in though the space between the upper and lower control arms. you will be able to feel if they have meshed with the internal splines of the diff, it's hard to describe the feeling but you will know when you are there. make sure they are in the right spot before trying to press them in any further. i used the same method for install as i did for removal, a hammer and a screw driver. cover your eyes or preferably use a brass drift. drive them in until the metal ring on the CV is flush with the flange on the diff housing. repeat for the other side.

Hub and Spindle Assembly - with the CVs in place you are ready to re install the hub/spindle assembly. clean and re grease the seals on the back of the hub. grease the internal splines and or on the CV to aid installation or removal for when they require replacing in the future. swing the assembly up and off your stand and position the CV through the center of the spindle.


Ball Joint Carrier - line up the lower ball joint carrier with the spindle and insert the bolts. 2 per side 19mm torque to 119 lb/ft.

Tie Rod - run the tie rod bolt through the spindle assembly and attach the nut on top, torque to 67 lb/ft if you can, if not we will come back to that when the truck is on the ground.

Sway Bar -reattach the sway bar link to the spindle and tighten the nut.

Install Spindle Cab and Axle Nut
  • thread the 35mm nut on the end of the CV that is now through the spindle. if you have one available have an assistant press the brake petal to keep the hub from spinning while you tighten the spindle nut. it's a big one, torque to 180 lb/ft. or until you feel like you are going to pass out. cheater bar is a must here. re-install the nut lock and insert the cotter pin, bend the tabs on the cotter pin.
  • evenly hammer the spindle cab back into place.
Semi Final Check - double check all of the bolts/nuts you removed during this procedure, see manual for torque settings.

Reattach wheels - install and wheels and tight and torque to 85 lb/ft when back on the ground.

Tie Rods - if you were unable to torque the tie rods above apply pressure directly under the ball joint while tightening the nut, 19mm. torque to and re-install the cotter pin.

Fill Diff - wait a minimum of 1 hour before adding fluid, the longer you can wait the better but when you are ready to fill the diff clean the drain and fill plugs, be sure to get all metallic particles off the magnet on the drain plug then install and torque to 48 lb/ft. with the wheels on and the FJ back on level ground fill with a quality gear oil 75w90 or 75w140 (API), GL-5. 80w90 can also be used. add oil until it begins to ooze out of the fill hole. torque fill plug to 29 lb/ft.

Final Check - turn the wheel from lock to lock and check for binding or unwanted noise. you want smooth quiet travel.

Gear Break In - there are a couple techniques for breaking in a new gear set. i chose to follow the heat cycle method where you drive at varying speed under 60 MPH for 15-20 miles then stop and let the diff cool for at least 15 minutes, i waited 30. repeat the process another time and then take it easy for the next 500 miles, no towing. when you hit the 500 mile mark change the fluid to remove any metal from the break in process. The 5MT guys are going to be hard pressed to log 500 miles up front on the street. i figure a handful of wheeling trips should be sufficient.
 

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werd. very nice work!
 

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Just wanted to add that this is a b!7ch. lol

And that in the step "transfer parts" this doesn't just mean the ADD carrier as a hole. You need to also transfer the stub shaft from the old clamshell to the new one. I wasn't aware when I started that, that was necessary and just happened to get lucky looking for something on ECGS website and saw that this was mandatory. Here they are, be sure to swap them or 4wd will not work.



Exact directions are on ECGS website.


Also if your CV shafts won't slide out when you pull the hub, don't be afraid to hit it with a dead blow or rubber mallet. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just wanted to add that this is a b!7ch. lol

And that in the step "transfer parts" this doesn't just mean the ADD carrier as a hole. You need to also transfer the stub shaft from the old clamshell to the new one. I wasn't aware when I started that, that was necessary and just happened to get lucky looking for something on ECGS website and saw that this was mandatory. Here they are, be sure to swap them or 4wd will not work.
Interesting, I didn't swap the shaft on my '07, it truly was a simple transferring a few pieces and some RTV.
Is this perhaps 10+ specific? Ratio dependent or locker related?
 

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Interesting, I didn't swap the shaft on my '07, it truly was a simple transferring a few pieces and some RTV.
Is this perhaps 10+ specific? Ratio dependent or locker related?
It is not a 10+ specific part; I have an 07 and forgot to transfer this and didn't realize till after I sent my cores back to ECGS. Luckily they had one that they could send me and was only without 4wd for a few days.

In your 6th pic down, you can see that both of your units have this part in place.

This part is what the actuator slides the "sleeve" over to connect the front diff.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I wonder why ECGS stopped shipping them with. Perhaps. A shortage with the cores. I apologize for any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Because my intention was to gather a quality set of notes then share with the forum so others wouldn't feel intimidated about tackling this or the rear.
I wasn't aware that the shaft was a required swap part as it was included from ECGS when I did mine however I feel especially bad that someone put their rig back together without it based on the write up.
Not labeling the rear gasket PN as <2010 was an oversight although in my defense they had only been out a limited amount of time when this was put together.
I'm glad you and others have found these useful despite in not being 100% up to date and complete.

:cheers:
 

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Because my intention was to gather a quality set of notes then share with the forum so others wouldn't feel intimidated about tackling this or the rear.
I wasn't aware that the shaft was a required swap part as it was included from ECGS when I did mine however I feel especially bad that someone put their rig back together without it based on the write up.
Not labeling the rear gasket PN as <2010 was an oversight although in my defense they had only been out a limited amount of time when this was put together.
I'm glad you and others have found these useful despite in not being 100% up to date and complete.

:cheers:
Dude dont feel that way at all. IMO you wrote up a dam* good how-to based on your experience, with the knowledge you had at the time. No one should ask for more, which is why I added the new info to compliment yours based on my experience on a newer truck.

People have to realize that as good as these things are they are guides, not gospels. Information should be referenced and it should be understood that these are YMMV how-tos and be thankful for the extra info, so dont be so hard on yourself, no one else is :cheers:
 

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I must thank the time and effort of the OP for this write up. I was able to knock out my clamshell swap in 6 hours with no real issues.
The only issue I had was replacing a lost center mount bold that ended up not being lost at all. A.D.D. can be a biatch!

Thanks Again!
 

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Interesting, I didn't swap the shaft on my '07, it truly was a simple transferring a few pieces and some RTV.
Is this perhaps 10+ specific? Ratio dependent or locker related?
Some vendors chose to include it, and you will pay for it if they do.
Mine wasn't included. Bottom line, anyone choosing to swap a clamshell should know enough to compair the new shell with the old if they have not done it with an IFS. It would then be obvious, or it was to me. In terms of the ADD gear it uses a snap ring. I just hit the other side with a long screwdriver and it will promptly exit. I also transferred the bearing over too. I had to move the ARB air line to be sure it sat snugly against the seat.

Anyway, like i said before the write up is Awesome!
 

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Was this done because of damage or an upgrade?
 
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