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The brake light wire in my 2007FJ was accessible at the brake master cylinder. It’s a green wire with a yellow stripe and a white or silver ring. It’s along the bottom of the large wiring harness leading into the master cylinder.
 

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I came up with an easy sollution to the 7 pin plug clearance problem. Using the stock mount causes the new plug to hang down too low.




I know it wouldn't last long while out wheeling. I was trying to mount it in the bumper but didn't like the idea of cutting into the steel cross bracing. I decided to remove the plug from the mounting bracket and remove the bracket still attached to the stock 4 pin mount. Then I bent the new bracket down from 90 deg to about 60 deg. I reattached the whole thing upside down and sidways up behind the bumper cross member. I bolted the plug back on and here is the result.





Nothing shows from the rear of the truck. The only disadvantage is connecting the trailer pig tail is more difficult, I usually just crawl under.


I just picked up a new trailer and the Prodigy worked great. It's great having the brakes.
 

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Jeff,

Thanks for the tips & pictures; I'm sure they will help me when I tackle this shortly.

Quick question, where to I tap the reverse/back-up lights from? Everything else has been covered (the 6 pins of the RV hitch Connector), but no one has mentioned anything concerning the reverse signal.

Kpj
 

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Jeff,

Thanks for the tips & pictures; I'm sure they will help me when I tackle this shortly.

Quick question, where to I tap the reverse/back-up lights from? Everything else has been covered (the 6 pins of the RV hitch Connector), but no one has mentioned anything concerning the reverse signal.

Kpj

I wandered that myself. I'm not sure , my trailer doesn't have the backup lights. I just doubled over the purple wire in the conduit. I would think the best place would be to tap the reverse wire some where in the back by the lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Jeff,

Thanks for the tips & pictures; I'm sure they will help me when I tackle this shortly.

Quick question, where to I tap the reverse/back-up lights from? Everything else has been covered (the 6 pins of the RV hitch Connector), but no one has mentioned anything concerning the reverse signal.

Kpj
I am planning on adding some backup lights to my trailer. My plan is to tap off of the left reverse light and use that signal to drive a relay which will drive the reverse lights. You need to do something like that because the wiring on the FJ is not thick enough diameter to carry the current needed for the extra lights.

My trailer has a battery so I plan to drive the reverse lights from that battery. The relay will be on the trailer. I will connect the reverse signal to the 7-blade connector (CTR) on the FJ and on the trailer side I will connect it to the relay. I have not chosen a relay but when I do I will post the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
I have been very busy with Spring Break and Tax Time so I am only now just getting around to installing my Electronic Brake Controller. So far it has been pretty easy with all of the tips that have been posted on this thread but it seems with every step I am back to the store to buy more stuff. After working on it most of the day I am not finished but very close.

Here is how I started:

1) I took a trip to the local RV shop to buy wire, 30 amp circuit breakers and some plastic conduit. As expected the shop did not have what I needed/wanted. I purchased two 30 Amp circuit breakers (not what I wanted but the only ones they had) and some plastic conduit. I stopped off at a Tractor Supply Company on the way home and ended up buying the brake controller installation kit (Hopkins P/N 47275). It had the proper size wire and at a good price. I also picked up some tie wraps, heat shrink tubing for splices and misc crimp connectors.



2) I started the installation by mounting the breakers to the drivers side inner fender. I was able to use 3 of the existing holes and had to drill one extra. The existing holes had backing nuts that were 6M dia x 1.0 thread. I bought 4 6M x 1.0 x 12mm cap screws and a 6M nut from Lowes for the installation. I needed to use a 6M x 1.0 tap to clean up the threads on the existing holes. Luckily I had one of those in my tap and die set.



3) For the next step I installed the Prodigy mounting bracket on the circuit breaker cover. This required a trip to Home Depot to buy (4) 8-32 x 1/2 inch screws, nuts and washers. I marked the location of the holes and then drilled and mounted the bracket.



4) I plugged the connector into the Prodigy, installed the Prodigy into its mounting bracket, threaded the wires through the hole in the circuit breaker panel and then used zip tie wraps to bundle the wire 20 inches away from the connector. I precisely installed the tire wraps at 1.0 inch intervals (lessons learned from American Air Lines -ha ha ha) and then installed the bundle in an 18 inch section of conduit (not really needed but I had extra so I used it).



5) Next step I grabbed and Awl and poked a hole in the side of the rubber grommet where the main wire bundle passes through the firewall. Then I took some thin bailing wire and folded it in half and poked both loose ends through the grommet from the engine compartment into the cab. Then I took some 3/16 nylon rope and threaded it through the loop of bailing wire and pulled the doubled rope from the engine compartment into the cab. I routed the Prodigy wires along the left side of the circuit panel and installed the Prodigy. I taped the wire to the rope and wound the bailing wire along the wire for extra pulling strength. Then I pulled the 4 wires from the Prodigy into the engine compartment.



6) The next step is to splice the 4 wires so that they are long enough:

- I cut about 12 inches of white wire and added a crimp-on ring terminal large enough for a the body bolt that grounds the negative terminal to the body at the battery to one end and a crimp-on butt splice to the other end and joined the other end of the splice to the white wire leading to the brake controller.

- I cut about 12 inches of black wire and butt spliced it on to the end of the black wire and then added a crimp-on ring terminal to the other end and connected it to one end of a 30 amp breaker.

- The red wire from the brake controller was long enough to reach the Skid Control ECU mounted on the brake master cylinder so I decided to tap into the brake switch signal at that point. There was enough slack in the cable bundle to attach a Quick Tap connector to the Green-Yellow wire. The Green-Yellow wire is attached to pin 45 at the A4 Connector on the Skid Control ECU. Pin 45 is the second pin from the right on the top row of pins.



The rest of the circuit looks like this:



It is a fused line that is always hot. At this point you can test to see if you have a brake signal at the 4 pin Brake controller connector. Connect a DC volt meter to the middle two terminals of the 4 pin brake controller connector. The white wire on the center-left is Ground and the red wire center-right will be the brake signal. You should measure 0 volts normally and 12 volts when you press the brake pedal. If not, most likely the Quick Tap did not pierce the Green-Yellow wire. You might want to trim away some of the Green-Yellow insulation just to make sure the copper wire contacts the Quick Tap (I had to do this to get a brake signal).


- I butt spliced about 15 feet of blue wire to the blue wire leading from the brake controller

- I put a ring terminal on 15 feet of black wire and attached it to the second 30 amp circuit breaker.

- Then I put the blue and black wires in some 1/2 inch spit tubing and routed the wires to the tailgate along the divers side frame rail. I used Zip ties along the rail to hold the split tubing.

- I attached the blue and black wires to the respective wires on the back of the 7-pin connector using butt splices.

- I took about 12 inches of red wire and attached it to the remaining end of one of the 30 amp breakers with a ring terminal

- I took about 3 inches of red wire and added a ring terminal to each end, creating a loop wire, and connected one end to the breaker with the 12 inch red wire and the other end to the second breaker.

- I added a 50 amp fused link to the other end of the 12 inch red wire and then attached the other end of the fused link to the positive battery post...

The wiring is done...time to start checking out the trailer.
 

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A couple things to help those out looking to do this...

First a location for all the pieces needed, plus a wiring schematic for the basic 7 pin plug harness and brake controller to compliment the Toyota trailer hitch wiring schematic posted at the beginning: How To Install A Electric Trailer Brake Control On A Tow Vehicle



This is my proposed location for the TAP brake controller - mounting angle doesnt matter, I ran this controller for almost 10yrs in my E-150 on the same 18' dual axle trailer without any problems. Will post actual pix when done installing.



I plan to cover the back with Velcro because i dont want to put screw holes in my trim...
 

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Here's my completed brake controller installation...



and the 7/4 pin connector location...



OH, and as a note... if you look in the engine compartment far drivers side where the main bundle of wiring goes through, there is a little nub at the top of that big rubber grommet. If you cut the dome off that nub, it has a perfect round passage all the way through into the passenger compartment - it is perfectly the size for the 14/3 wire cable I used to pull through and still be water/air tight!! Just a little grease required to facilitate pulling....
 

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nice write up on the install with pics. My question is, why would you continue to use the adapter 4 pin as a corrosion point instead of just soldering all wires direct to make the 7 pin connector?

Why is it since Toyota puts some fuse/breaker locations in the main box on the wheel well is it needed to install additional breakers on the wheel well? Are these not high enough rating or something?

Jeff
 
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