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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Recently noticed weeping of gear oil form my front differential seal (drivers side) after doing the awesomely cool 4x4 you see below. I am compiling all articles and information I have found and step by step instructions on how to complete this repair your-self. My basic search yielded no exact matches, if one exists oh well.

Note: I have a Procomp 6 inch lift with stock upper and lower control arms. My tie rod is positioned on the top side due to the lift. Procedure holds.

After hitting a mud hole I began to smell a burnt gear oil smell, later inspection revealed weeping from my differential at the half axle on the drivers side.



Tools you will need:
19mm socket (Remove Tires, tie rod end)
36mm socket (Remove Hub Nut)
24mm Socket (Remove lower control arm)
Dielectric grease recommended (ABS Sensor Plug)
2qts 75W-90 gear oil (Check drain plug manual for correct type)
Set of pry bars, pliers, mallet, oil catch pan, rags, and jack & jack stands.
Wife Unit to hold stuff and depress pedals... :simmadown:

If you do not wish to repair this yourself the dealership quoted me ~$320 + consumables (Oil, hub nut, and clip) to repair.
(Poor Photo showing weeping from front differential)

Part (Gearshaft oil seal) costs $11.25 from Toyota.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
One good video by Last Great Road Trip and list by Wikid is what I needed to get underway, however a step by step is helpful.

Comments now open thread finished.


1. Secure vehicle and get tire off (Jack, stands, and 19mm socket)
2. Remove Dust Cap (Flat head screw driver + hammer)
3. Remove cotter pin and locking cap and nut (pliers, and hands)
3. Remove Hub Nut (36mm Socket, and Wife to press brake pedal)
4. Remove the (2) bolts on lower control arm (24mm socket)
5. Remove Tie rod castle nut and cotter pin (Pliers, 19mm socket)
6. Disconnect (IMHO) the ABS sensor.
7. Pull hub assembly up and away, CV Half shaft axle will slide out.
8. Pry Half shaft out of front differential (Pry Bars)
-- Take care not to damage metal seal guard
-- Drain Differential at this time (or sooner)
-- Keep drain pan in place, when axle is pulled more gear oil trickles out.
9. Get the flippin' seal out you will likely damage it (Pliers and lots of pulling)
10. Clean the area for the new seal.
11. Place in new seal, carefully tap in ( I used wide edge of pry bar and went around till fully seated also grease seal to condition)
12. Place metal seal guard in place
13. Re insert axle into differential, align splines and keep snap ring clip opening faced down.
14. Use mallet and bang in the axle till in snaps into place
15. Slip Hub back onto axle
16. Reconnect lower control arm, tie rod, then ABS sensor.
17. Replace hub nut (36mm)
18. Replace locking cap/cotter pin, then dust cover.
19. Secure wheel.

Photos of these step to follow.

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Hold position 2
Public folder for all photos during repair
https://plus.google.com/photos/106974177950575035501/albums/5978541830510048993?banner=pwa


Getting tire off, bastards who rotated air wrenched the hell out of it, needed to get air gun to break, worst part of the repair.


Tire off: visible dust cap, tie rod end, lower control arm, and axle.


Dust Cap off: visible locking cap, cotter pin and hub nut.


Hub nut removed onto the lower control arm
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Remove tie rod (Note my tie rod on 6" lift is on top of the assembly, bolt going down and is different than stock which is on the bottom and bolt going up)


Castle nut with cotter pin removed


Remove tie rod
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Pry out the Half axle at the differential. (Take care not to deform metal ring seal guard)

Wife was holding axle here, hence no prybar pics.





Took a little creativity to pry, keep at it and you hear the snap ring release, still will need to get it over a second hurdle before full release.



Here you are able to see the dirt all over the seal, which is the presumed cause of the leak.. (Seal is behind the metal guard ring)
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Axle removed GET THE SEAL





Spring may come out when pulling out old seal, don't panic there is a spring in place in the new seal.


Clean the area good for the new seal.

PULL THAT SEAL
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Seal is tough to fit in, use finesse, there is a special tool, but this worked great (side of the pry bar & light taps).



You will need to get it in a little ways ~4-5cm. Replace the metal guard, then axle can be aligned and banged back into place. With rain, documenting, and a run for a couple tools a ways away took us 3 hours to complete.


Comment Away!! Hope this helps you..
 

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Great write up! Easy to follow with great pictures. :cheers:
 

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Great write up!

cheers,

dale
 

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I would assume the passenger side is exactly the same right? Just replaced both front cv axles and I now have a leak coming from passanger side. Excellent write up. I thought of doing the axle write up but lastgreatroadtrip.com had an excellent one already.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I would assume the passenger side is exactly the same right? Just replaced both front cv axles and I now have a leak coming from passanger side. Excellent write up. I thought of doing the axle write up but lastgreatroadtrip.com had an excellent one already.
That is my assumption also.. I do know the passenger and driver side seals are different part numbers... probably not interchangeable??


thanks for the write up love.. :bigthumb:
 

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That is my assumption also.. I do know the passenger and driver side seals are different part numbers... probably not interchangeable??


thanks for the write up love.. :bigthumb:


Just finished the passanger side. No pictures but exactly the same as driver side. Just make sure you order the right part number. There is a left and right.

Thank you again for the great article.
 

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FYI next time probably use a jack stand instead of just the jack supporting the truck.
 
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