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just a thought :)
what you really want are Draw Bar springs



not a regular coil spring :)

this way they can take up some shock without over stretching
 

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You wont need a bigger cable, it is already stronger than the eye bolts in your system. Are you making it removeable and putting them on when you go wheeling or leaving them on all the time?
 

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Nice mod.
Seems like the mounting on the front corners would help limbs go over the rack and maybe save the snorkel.
 

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Yer going to shoot out your eye. Stretching cables with springs is going to get someone hurt or pop out the windshield. Anyone use some nylon webbing or climbing rope? You could color-cordinate with the paint color?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
You wont need a bigger cable, it is already stronger than the eye bolts in your system. Are you making it removeable and putting them on when you go wheeling or leaving them on all the time?
As they are now it takes about minute to loosen them, put the top is a permanent attach.


Nice mod.
Seems like the mounting on the front corners would help limbs go over the rack and maybe save the snorkel.
Honestly i'm not to concerned about the snorkel.. That thing is solid. It will rip the fender off before something happens to it.

More of a piece of mind mod than anything.
 

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Thanks to ExPo members (Expedition Portal: Vehicle Dependent Overland Community), cowboy4x4 and Miss R2FJ for being the idea/model for this mod :rocker:

1st off, this was stupidly easy. Secondly, this was down right cheap.. less than $20. Did i mention it was easy?


*This is not the final version, the cable will change, and everything will be painted black.*


One and only problem: I got the cable so tight, that if i push/pull on it, the bumper actually flexes a little.. i can actually see the front body mounts compreesing (right behind the bumper wing). When i loosen it, it will still do it i apply force :confused:

Also, this would probably work best with a wider front hoop (ARB like). Look at this first picture and you'll understand why i said this..

All feedback/criticism welcome.. I'm someone will find something i overlooked :bigthumb:








The front large eye-bolts are rated for 650+lbs, and the top ones are 350+lbs. Right now, the cable is the weakest link (like.. 64 lbs i think). I saw it in a package at wal-mart today just to get it to start the mod.. That will be changed out for thicker cable tomorrow.




Just a couple of notes on your install. Generally the plastic covering on the cable should be removed from the area where sleeves or clamps used. The plastic prevents proper contact with the saddle of the clamps and when sleeves are compressed the material of the sleeve is supposed to cold flow into the strands of the wire rope. The plastic will prevent this from happening and the sleeve will fail under load. The sleeves shown in Homedad's photo should have 1 more crimp in them to achieve max holding power. The clamps shown at the bumper end are on the correct way, the clamps at the roof rack end are backwards. The rule is: "never saddle a dead horse" meaning that the saddle needs to go on the load bearing part of the cable because the u-bolt will kink the line when properly torqued. If the kink(s) are on the load side your assembly will be much weaker. Also I know the kit only came with 2 clips per end but 3 per end are required for that size wire rope to get max strength for the assembly.
 

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Cool. I saw another forum member illustrate this once but this is the first time I've seen in for real.


How long would it take for you to open your hood on the trails?

Nice work. Thanks for sharing.

I'm still not getting a rise. Waiting though.
Limb riser...not limp riser.
 

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Same question...why not rope, instead of steel cable?

Weather has a greater effect on rope or webbing. UV rays, rain, thermal cycles ( hot to cold, cold to hot) will shorten the life of rope or webbing. Plus rope and webbing stretch and will have to continuously tightend to take up the slack.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Just a couple of notes on your install. Generally the plastic covering on the cable should be removed from the area where sleeves or clamps used. The plastic prevents proper contact with the saddle of the clamps and when sleeves are compressed the material of the sleeve is supposed to cold flow into the strands of the wire rope. The plastic will prevent this from happening and the sleeve will fail under load. The sleeves shown in Homedad's photo should have 1 more crimp in them to achieve max holding power. The clamps shown at the bumper end are on the correct way, the clamps at the roof rack end are backwards. The rule is: "never saddle a dead horse" meaning that the saddle needs to go on the load bearing part of the cable because the u-bolt will kink the line when properly torqued. If the kink(s) are on the load side your assembly will be much weaker. Also I know the kit only came with 2 clips per end but 3 per end are required for that size wire rope to get max strength for the assembly.

Thanks for the input!



not to sound like a moron.........but what is the point of this?
Basically, its just real cheap peace of mind.
And
What these two said:


To keep limbs off the windshield.
To dry your clothes. :) :clap:
When your copilot refuses to get out of the car and move a tree limb that might smash through your windshield :thinkerg:


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Cool. I saw another forum member illustrate this once but this is the first time I've seen in for real.


How long would it take for you to open your hood on the trails?

Nice work. Thanks for sharing.

about 25 seconds if there is a fire :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Faunny thing: The FJ flexes so much, when i start the engine, the risers jolt :lol: ...now i know why i had to put springs in :rofl:

Anyway..

Todays progress:

Put in the springs. I had two different pairs, the ones pictured, and longer, weaker ones. the long ones i felt were way to weak and would have been useless.

The ones currently mounted are pretty strong and will give/adjust/spring/whatever when needed.

I also jumped the gun and painted it all. I Used Rustoleum hammered on the hardware and plasti-dip on the rubbery line cover. I figure your asking yourself "why the hell did he use two different types of paint? That will look like crap..". Well, i did that because i can :shrug03:

This is still not the FINAL version. Will be revising the top mounting location.






 

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Yer going to shoot out your eye. Stretching cables with springs is going to get someone hurt or pop out the windshield. Anyone use some nylon webbing or climbing rope? You could color-cordinate with the paint color?
why I would not use anything coated or synthetic is drag
branches would rip and snag rope apart
uncoated steel the coated can drag and tear


using drawbar springs there is not that much load for them to store energy at all so nothing would happen if they fail
using a regular spring worst is you are left with a really saggy line hanging there if it stretched a long ways it might have more energy to release ?

also the problem will be with most normal springs will be the ends will fail !
tear open or bend open
the drawbar type are much more solid and will just compress out before failing

my old FJ 40 I just used to let em wack the window frame
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Yeah striker the whole snapping thing is kind of a big downer about them.






Anyway, an Update.

I swear it is not possible to get them just right (tightness). It's either loose enough to have some play in it, or, i can spin the turnbuckle and then the bumper & FRAME (YES, FRAME) flexes. Barely any force and i can watch the front most body mount compress/decompress.

This is starting to seem like the only good it will do is look awesome.. :indifferent:
 

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You couldn't even get it to work with some nice draw bar springs?
 
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