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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So as some of you know, I used to own/ run a pretty successful detailing company until the twin towers fell and then it was all over.

Ive always tried to stay up with the times and keep current with products so I can see how they work. Ive seen a huge boom in the nano coating industry with the top leaders being Opti-Coat and CQuartz. This stuff seemed to me like snake oil with its 2 year protection and ability to sheen water off by disrupting its surface tension. Well I ponied up and got some CarPro products (Makers of CQuartz) to give it a shot.

Started with my wifes 2010 black 135i BMW which had its share of halos, swirls, scratches and every other issue a 6 year old paint in the heat/ construction world of Houston should have.

The way I tackled this was to do it solely using my hands or my Cyclo orbital seeing as most would be too afraid to try a buffer. This way its truly a DIY with any orbital you can purchase. I would recommend one as its tough to get these chemical etching/ load leveling polishes to perform by hand without inducing more swirls. So with that being said- you have two routes to go.

1st- Heavy trail rash/ lots of issues with your paint

2nd- Moderate to few issues with your paint

The 1st only requires one additional product and another foam pad for your orbital (or two if you run a Cyclo)

What you need-

I picked it up from AutoGeek online- Just use their search engine and type in CarPro and then ad to the shopping cart.

  • CarPro Fixer Compound (only if your in the 1st category otherwise skip it)
  • CarPro Reflect (this would be the 2nd "stage" of paint correction if you started with Fixer or the only application or Stage if your in the 2nd category)
  • CarPro Eraser- MUST Have- this removes all the oils, greases and remaining chemicals from the paints/ plastic/ rubber/ windows surface so the CQuartz can have the best chance at adhesion. This is the most disregarded step and causes the most "bad applications"
  • Car Pro Ceramic Paint Protection Kit - Comes with 30ml CQuartz coating, Aplicator, (5) suede coating application sheets, (3) Micro Fiber towels, CarPro Iron-X (very cool stuff- great for car sides and wheels) and CarPro Reload (this is the in upkeep "spray wax". This is a great deal and they throw you a small sample of their tire dressing thats supposed to last 3 months
  • Decent clay bar with lubricator
  • Extra MF towels
  • Orbital poliser w/ 1-2 foam polishing pads
  • Bucket with good car soap and wash mitts (I use two to ensure my wheels get their own)
  • Wheel cleaner- this can be which ever you prefer. The Iron-X removes the residue from brake dust so its a great follow up to ensure they are ready to go.
  • Nytril gloves
Extras
  • 30ml CarPro CQuartz DLux coating- Used for cars with lots of plastics (like FJs and great for wheels)
  • Leaf blower (to help dry the car faster/ remove water from crevices)
I didn't capture any photos of the process as I was trying to get this done before I died in this heat as my body is acclimated to Alaska :lol:

Its super simple with one caveat

Cannot stress this enough- These steps require you to eliminate the scratches, halos, swirls and other defects. Everything you leave behind will be trapped beneath the coating and always look bad.


  • Wash
  • Dry
  • Spray Iron-X (in shade)- turns purple when it starts to break down any metals embedded in the paint (from industrial fallout, brake dust, etc). Wipe on with a wet sponge/ MF Towel and remove with a clean/ wet towel.
  • Wash again/ Clay bar
  • Blow dry with leaf blower- you don't want water to creep out while your applying the coatings or it screws them up (or sweat- learned lesson- take breaks and have a fan on you when doing everything to keep you from dripping on the car)
  • Depending on the situation, your paint correction will either be a single or two stage affair with the two compound/ polish listed above. Work in the shade (preferably low humidity too) - Need your orbital here
  • If your in the 1st group- Fixer/ full wipe down (possible rewash if lots of residue exists or Eraser and then follow with application of Reflect
  • If your in the 2nd group- Just an application of Reflect will work great.
  • Follow the manufacturers directions on the bottles- its super simple.
  • Of the two- the Reflect is super easy to remove. Almost like a dry powder once it flashes. The Fixer requires a lot more UPHFF to remove but an extra MF towel that you fold in squares and keep flipping, makes this easy enough.
Look at your paint surface from every angle to see if the imperfections are removed to your satisfaction. If they are still there- go at it again with the polish or compound/ polish steps until satisfied.

TIP- Use the compounds/ polishes on the windshield, windows, headlights too. Really cleans them up nicely.


  • Put on your Nytril Gloves- Spray down the car in sections with Eraser and wipe clean with a clean/ unused MF towel. This stage is critical otherwise you'll end up having issues with the application of the coatings. This cannot be stressed enough (lesson learned- sweat will cause streaking in the coating while its curing. Wipe yourself always and ensure you don't drip from your gloves cuff. The oils in your skin/ sweat cause lots of issues with these coatings- need to be vigilant in the next steps of this)
  • Shake the CQuartz really good. With clean gloves on and your applicator pad with a sueded sheet, dab the product on the suede sheet thats wrapped around the foam end of the applicator until you see a few spots


    Tip- You only get 30ml so make sure your not wasteful. make smaller areas to work if in a hotter area as this stuff will flash in 3-4 minutes. If you want to make two full coatings on a larger car/ FJ- think about the areas that see the worst stuff (hood, roof, doors) and try to save enough to do a second coating. I did two full coatings on my Bimmer and the bottle was empty when done. CarPro sells a larger 50ml bottle but remember- this stuff starts to flash when its opened an has a very short shelf life so unless you need it- stick with just what you need

  • Work the product in in two directions 90 degrees opposite. Start a side to side and then front to back. However you chose, the product is self leveling and will even out. Dont go heavy as this will waste product and makes it very hard on darker cars to remove the haze. Makes a little go a long way and do two coatings
  • Dont forget your windshield, windows, headlights too.
  • Keep track of the time and work in small areas where you can remember whats been coated. The coating flashes in 4-5 minutes max (faster in higher heat). Only apply what you can remove quickly so stick to maybe a hood, then fenders, then remove.
  • Some say to add your second coat right away as the 1st coat will start to "repel" the second. I didn't find this to be the case but this process is one where time is against you unless you work in an air conditioned garage with tons of daylight bulbs- then sip on your whisky and enjoy the process :lol:
  • Remove the remaining coating from the surface with a clean/ never been used before MF towel. Flip this a lot as the coating will begin to build up in the towel and cause it to become hard and unusable. Fold it into a square and expose a new area per panel if you can. I used one side for 3 panels per coating then flipped to a clean section.


    Tip- Always remember that once you "load up" the applicator with your few precious drops to place the cap back on the CQuartz otherwise it will begin to harden in the bottle and flash

  • Keep doing this process until done. Always remember before starting the next set of panels/ section to really look at the paint and remove all the haze left behind from the coating. If you dont- It will not come off once cured and/ or become trapped under the 2nd coating (ask me how i know this). If you have a black car/ dark paint- spend lots of time looking at your paint with a bright white lights (preferably a daylight bulb) to ensure you have a super deep/ shiney surface.
  • Every few panels/ applications, either flip the suede sheet or replace once flipped twice. The stuff hardens into the pores of the suede and makes the coating more difficult to apply. You get (5) of them, so thats 10 uses.

  • Park the car when done in the sun to let cure- only needs a few hours. Rotate if needed to get the stuff rock hard. If your up North in the winter, let it sit for 24 hours in a heated garage and that should work in a pinch but UV is the preferred method.



    Thats it! If you did it correctly, you will have an exceptional looking paint that once in the sun and cured, becomes baby ass smooth and looks intense! Best part of it this is the cost savings- Most Paint corrections/ Coatings cost around $750-$1500 for average to rough paint. Using an orbital and the compounds/ polishes avoids burning the paint or removing too much. It does take longer with sometimes extra steps but adds piece of mind that your not going to screw up you paint.

    My cost before the extra foam pads was $190 and that included the Dlux which you apply on the wheels, removing them and throughly cleaning and coating them. The extra coating that remains can be used on your plastic parts too.

    May seem like a lot but this stuff makes paint look like nothing Ive ever seen. With washings and application of the Reload spray wax, the surface should be good up to two years. Oh and watch videos of what this stuff looks like when its had water sprayed on it. No wax in the world can compete

    Hope this helps you some

    Some pics (crappy Samsung phone pics with some touching up for bad lighting in Lightroom)

    Finished Stage 1 with Fixer

Finished Stage 2 with Reflect (this made the paint "pop")




Headlights following Stage 2- Very pit free and extremely clear




Out curing in the sun following two coats of CQuartz




:rocker::rocker::rocker::rocker::rocker:
 

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I Have a V-8!! Moderator
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OC you should sticky this in the Interior/Exterior section. People are always asking about how to polish, wash, clean their vehicles and this would be good for them and it could be added to with other products and info.
 

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Thanks for the detailed write up. Lots of work there.:cheers:

And for sharing the pics of the detailed car. Looks incredible.

Liking the glass and lens tips, too.:clap:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That looks amazingly good!
I thought so and I wasn't all that picky since i knew the paint was pretty old. Id say from a professional side- it as 95% perfect.

OC you should sticky this in the Interior/Exterior section. People are always asking about how to polish, wash, clean their vehicles and this would be good for them and it could be added to with other products and info.
Thanks BIGGUY

:lol: Dont laugh but I have forgotten how... :lol::worried::lol:

Better get Baz... :blueblob::blueblob::blueblob::blueblob:
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the detailed write up. Lots of work there.:cheers:

And for sharing the pics of the detailed car. Looks incredible.

Liking the glass and lens tips, too.:clap:
Thanks. Its only good if a few more can get in on it. I guess I should have stated where I got the stuff from.

I picked it up from AutoGeek online- Just use their search engine and type in CarPro and then ad to the shopping cart. They make interior stuff to for leathers and fabrics that would blow your mind

I got a lot of my learnings from a few You Tube vids. Just poke around and within 5, your an expert... :lol:
 

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I Have a V-8!! Moderator
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I thought so and I wasn't all that picky since i knew the paint was pretty old. Id say from a professional side- it as 95% perfect.



Thanks BIGGUY

:lol: Dont laugh but I have forgotten how... :lol::worried::lol:

Better get Baz... :blueblob::blueblob::blueblob::blueblob:
No problem. It's now a sticky in there. Now if people will just look at it and add to it to keep it going this should be a good thread and a lot of help.

We could do like the Tundra forum and have a Detailing Tips and Tricks section........

I need to talk with the people at the car wash about their warranty. I got the Tundra washed a week ago and it didn't last worth a crap. It's all covered in mud and splashes of mud now.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No problem. It's now a sticky in there. Now if people will just look at it and add to it to keep it going this should be a good thread and a lot of help.

We could do like the Tundra forum and have a Detailing Tips and Tricks section........

I need to talk with the people at the car wash about their warranty. I got the Tundra washed a week ago and it didn't last worth a crap. It's all covered in mud and splashes of mud now.
:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
 

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OC - will the CQuartz work with single stage paint? It looks amazing, thanks for the walkthrough!
Thanks
Shawn
 

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Discussion Starter #11
OC - will the CQuartz work with single stage paint? It looks amazing, thanks for the walkthrough!
Thanks
Shawn
Shawn,

Think of the system as like a "Mop and glo" for your cars paint. The main deal is to ensure there are as few surface imperfections when your ready to coat but the system should work on any paint, plastic and glass. The benefits are amazing once cured. Placing a vehicle thats freshly waxed next to the one with CQuartz and spray them with water and you will quickly see the benefits, especially the glass/ windshield.

Wanna make my FJ shine after it gets here?:browsmiley:
I can help ya out buddy. The cost for the materials is on you though ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Dang - that looks great
my black FJ could use a good going over
Its all in the prepping. Once you coat it- the imperfections are trapped underneath but if done right- Its like nothing Ive ever seen.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It looks awesome, and as with alot of stuff, prep work counts
Thanks for sharing OC
No worries

great info, thanks
I really like this stuff. Best part is that you use so little of the polishes that your next application only requires buying the CQuartz. So figure the second car is $40. So if you go in on this with others, you can do a bunch for a lot less per car.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Where are some real pix of the BMW after this? All that camera gear and you use your cell phone with some HDR crap done to it!
( I have to give it back every once in a while) LOL
Hey I put them through lightroom... Apple sells new iPhones on their ability to be so awesome at taking video and pictures... lol

It's going to be awhile seeing as I just got back to Alaska. It will be good as a refresher to see how it's holding up. I'll pull out the 400/ 2.8 and take a picture from across the street :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Old cruiser u said u were in Alaska would happen to be in anchorage? want to help make my fj shine
When I'm here, I'm working from sun up to sun down, everyday. No can do.

As for the process- its easy but you need warmer weather than it is currently in Anchorage.
 
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