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Looking phenomenal! Do you happen to have a before picture to contrast the work you did?

-B
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
Heated garage for the win lol this is my baby where did u pic up your supplies might give me something to do over the weekend
I posted above- Autogeek.com
then in the search box (midway up let side) type in "CarPro"


Looking phenomenal! Do you happen to have a before picture to contrast the work you did?

-B
Thanks. I looked for picture but to be honest, its always looked decent. As a former detailer, Id show it love at least once a year. The issues with any and all waxes is the fact that anyone within a week can have it looking pretty bad. A black car in construction-ville is no exception. What I like about this stuff, is it rewards you with easy cleanings. So in my wifes case whose had the car like this since this post date, has only rinsed off her car twice. Both times she claimed the water completely removed all the bugs, dirt and road grime. She then took a quick towel to it. Every time I come home, Ill coat it with Reload and she is back at the races.

I will say their products to remove swirls and halos are excellent. I had some deep scratches left on one side of the hood that would have been better served with wet sand paper but the point was to use no buffers and no products body shop related to validate this was a true DIY for anyone. The deal is, FJs will get scratched and beat up so having a perfect surface may not always be possible but to have a surface that only takes a quick hose down and that mud literally falls off of is something else.

Best part is that with all the remaining product, I could do my GTR and Juke for basically the cost of just the CQuartz which is $40 a car.

They claim 2 years but if left outside, that will diminish some Im sure. Mine are garaged. They also stated that bird poop should be removed within 2 days of contact. I still think thats pretty tough considering my friends 2015 Ford F-150 required me to wet sand down his hood to 2000 grit and back out to remove the crater left in his paint with one bird dropping. It was unreal. We are doing his truck when I get home.
 

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What do you suggest for engine bay cleaning?
 

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Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
What do you suggest for engine bay cleaning?
There are lots of great cleaners for this- Im more interested in the process. This is what gets most in trouble.

Ive always loved Zep Formula 50 (sold at Home Depot as FAST 505)

Any decent degreaser works well. Some engine bay cleaners even target mud stains. The process Ive always used was to



  • Open hood and cover any exposed electrical harnesses/ relays with plastic- this includes air intakes.
  • Wet the entire outside of the vehicle
  • Spray the engine compartment including the underside of the hood with the degreaser/ cleaner- Try to not get any on the outside of the vehicle- watch for headlights- these will discolor. Spray off exterior with engine bay closed if needed.
  • Using a flagged brush with a decent length handle- brush the hood area, exposed painted areas (shock towers) and engine covers- also agitate the areas most concentrated with grime.
  • Spray a second coat of degreaser lightly over areas brushed.
  • Let the chemical dwell for about 1-2 minutes.
  • With a Pressure washer (Note - DO NOT USE A GARDEN HOSE- WAY TOO MUCH WATER) using about 1000-1200 psi, remove the degreaser, starting on the hood. Overspray should be washed off if it lands on exterior.
To ensure your not spraying too much water (even with a pressure washer) onto the engine is to break the engine bay down into three sections/ view points. Since the FJ is a box - this makes this easy.


  • 1st stand on the drivers side at fender and spray off the engine bay at all areas exposed to you facing that direction. Never stop at any one area- continually sweep the lance back and forth. If your engine is still dirty- its safer to redue the steps listed above versus blasting high pressure water into an area.
  • The 2nd area is facing the engine bay at the front bumper- repeat process.
  • 3rd area is standing at the passengers side fender and repeat
.


As stated before- always err on the side of repeating the process versus flooding a motor. Each section should be less than 20 seconds otherwise your risking too much water on the engine/ electronics.

Lastly- blow off the motor using a leaf blower- more effective than compressed air and less likely to force water into areas of the motor not designed to handle it. Really take your time and move slowly.

Do not use tire shine or any other silicone product to "shine" the plastic. These are extremely flammable and should be avoided. They do make engine bay dressing thats water based and will not pose an issue

Hope that helps.
 

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Awesome information and write up! Thank you sir!
 

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Thanks OC. For future reference, when cleaning the engine bay, would you say the power washer should be set on about the "non spot rinse" mist setting if using a coin operated one? That's what I do when I rinse mine out. Although I really need to give it a deep clean sometime so thanks for the tips.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Thanks OC. For future reference, when cleaning the engine bay, would you say the power washer should be set on about the "non spot rinse" mist setting if using a coin operated one? That's what I do when I rinse mine out. Although I really need to give it a deep clean sometime so thanks for the tips.
Sorry for the late response.

Id say with most coin ops- just use the regular rinse setting (typically found after foam brush or pressure wand soap wash). The "spot free" has a hydrophobic surface-applied product that may contain silicone . Id stay clear of that in the engine bay but it sure beats trying to dry off the cars exterior. Use it there.

If your trying to eliminate water spots, I'd carry a water blade. Its a car squeegee that removes most of the water and then follow up with a synthetic chamois. Real chamois remove wax so I wouldn't use those.

This is the squeegee to get. The rest are cheap and wear out in a short time. This is what the pros use. Im still using the one I bought back in 95' and its been used on over 1000 vehicles

If the link doesn't work its the 12" Mirka Water Squeegee

https://www.amazon.com/Mirka-S12-12-Water-Squeegee/dp/B004BSN3B0?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Also wanted to ad- do not spray the foam/ fabric materials found under some car hoods (the black matting) . Those will tend to rip easy with the pressure washer. Its better to remove it and clean with a gentle car soap then allow to air dry and reattach.
 
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