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Discussion Starter #1

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No, I’ve completely stopped trying ANYTHING that claims to seal rust. Doesn’t matter if it’s paint, primer, converter, whatever. Often the products seem to seal in moisture and the rust perseveres slowly eating what you thought you had repaired.


I’ve found there are two ways of successfully dealing with it.

1. REMOVE the rust then seal clean metal.

2. STOP the rust in its tracks with krown, fluid film, or similar applied at least yearly.

On restorations I’ve gone to media blasting then spraying por15. While that’s tacky I spray a good primer.

On daily driven stuff and trailers/tractors I’ve gone to the regular application of fluid film. The reason is it simplifies maintenance and repair in the future.




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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for verifying it to me.

How do you tackle the rust inside of the little holes on the frame?

No, I’ve completely stopped trying ANYTHING that claims to seal rust. Doesn’t matter if it’s paint, primer, converter, whatever. Often the products seem to seal in moisture and the rust perseveres slowly eating what you thought you had repaired.


I’ve found there are two ways of successfully dealing with it.

1. REMOVE the rust then seal clean metal.

2. STOP the rust in its tracks with krown, fluid film, or similar applied at least yearly.

On restorations I’ve gone to media blasting then spraying por15. While that’s tacky I spray a good primer.

On daily driven stuff and trailers/tractors I’ve gone to the regular application of fluid film. The reason is it simplifies maintenance and repair in the future.




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With the first fluid film application I stick a 24-36” tube into the frame with a special tip that sprays in 360 degrees and pull the gun’s trigger as I pull the tube out slowly. This totally coats the inside of the frame/subframe. Once a heavy coat is inside the frame it’s not really coming out, now I use a degreaser to clean and inspect the areas in the summer, then reapply the nice protective coat before winter comes. I literally reapplied this morning and took it to get the tires rotated. The guys at discount tire though the FJ was leaking something, but it was just a few drops of fluid film where it had heated up and dripped.(they don’t see coatings applied like that much here in TN lol)


I think my first gallon of fluid film and the sprayer/tips were around $200 but worth every penny. I just keep an aerosol can of it for touch ups/maintenance.

Here’s a pic of the rear all cleaned up for pics this morning.



I’ll get one post application in the daylight tomorrow.



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Discussion Starter #6
Can you please send me a link of that stick/wand I looked online and all I found is just a short stick. Im not sure if its the same one.
With the first fluid film application I stick a 24-36” tube into the frame with a special tip that sprays in 360 degrees and pull the gun’s trigger.



I’ll get one post application in the daylight tomorrow.



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I’ve only needed to remove rust if I’m prepping for paint. The fluid film type coatings goes right over the rust and stops it from spreading.

Here’s 24 hours post reapplication.


I got my gun and hose adaptor to go into the frame from my matco dealer. No clue the brand, I think it was designed for bedliner application or some such.
 

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I tried Corroseal on my FJ after 10 years of surface rust it cleaned up very well, I used wire brushes and solvent to clean off any oils then coroseal followed up a few days later with CRC Marine corrosion inhibitor and fluid film,I used Eastwood internal frame coating and didnt bother with the front control arms as they are coming out soon. thumbnail_20191006_161901.jpg

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