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Discussion Starter #1
I'm sure this is a common topic. As a newbie, would love to get links to:
1) common solutions
2) directions on removing either the painted panel piece (that rattles) or the door panel as a whole

This is on my 2013 TT that I picked up a few weeks ago. . I imagine just some tightening and maybe cotton or I insulating material will solve this simple, yet extremely annoying, problem.

I'd hate to scratch something or break a fastener.


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One of the guys here on the forums recommended Rattle Trap, and to me, it is worth its weight in gold. I have done the front doors, rear door, and rear trunk area with this stuff. It stops rattles and helps to insulate noise. This is a must have for stereo enthusiasts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUNRGM/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1HRSVEM12WM20
This is another project on my list. Is that enough to do the whole FJ interior( roof, floor, doors etc. )? I'm just curious how many square feet a guy needs to get it all done..I'd hate to rip everything out and not have enough to finish:lol: TIA!
 

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This is another project on my list. Is that enough to do the whole FJ interior( roof, floor, doors etc. )? I'm just curious how many square feet a guy needs to get it all done..I'd hate to rip everything out and not have enough to finish:lol: TIA!
50 sqft roll was enough to do just the trunk area, front doors and rear door. I still have the firewall, headliner and floors under the seats to do. I am going to estimate that I will need another 100 sqft to get that done.
 

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50 sqft roll was enough to do just the trunk area, front doors and rear door. I still have the firewall, headliner and floors under the seats to do. I am going to estimate that I will need another 100 sqft to get that done.
So you`ll have to buy 150 sq. ft. of this stuff and do tons of work to tear your truck apart and stick this stuff everywhere and then put your entire truck back together......when all you have to do is turn your volume down... LOL I`m just kidding . I rarely listen to my stereo so I`m just having some fun :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm sure this is a common topic. As a newbie, would love to get links to:
1) common solutions
2) directions on removing either the painted panel piece (that rattles) or the door panel as a whole

This is on my 2013 TT that I picked up a few weeks ago. . I imagine just some tightening and maybe cotton or I insulating material will solve this simple, yet extremely annoying, problem.

I'd hate to scratch something or break a fastener.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Ok. All of you rock. Even though not "rocking out" with my stereo is the best option.

I hate the stereo. My '08 had the premium with the subwoofer - this tricked out Trail Teams has the cheapie. After adding other doodads and saving up some cash, I'll think about the stereo. In the meantime, double sided tape, feminine napkins, and/or rattle tape is the best track.

I just live in fear of snapping some fasteners!


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Ok. All of you rock. Even though not "rocking out" with my stereo is the best option.

I hate the stereo. My '08 had the premium with the subwoofer - this tricked out Trail Teams has the cheapie. After adding other doodads and saving up some cash, I'll think about the stereo. In the meantime, double sided tape, feminine napkins, and/or rattle tape is the best track.

I just live in fear of snapping some fasteners!


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G'day Kev,
The fasteners on the door panels are pretty rough.
I have not managed to snap any of mine yet, and had the panels off several times..
The thing to watch for with the panels is to correctly reattach the door handle mechanism ..there are two cables, one for the lock, and one for the door latch, get wrong way round and you wont be able to open the door, but they are colour coded from memory... and ensure the cables are seated fully.
the other tricky part is the connector behind the panel itself. Its a multi pin connector and can be tricky to un clip, its sort of a push pull connector ... and until you release it the panel will just hang itself. Helps if you have a second pair of hands ..but can be done solo ( with a few expletives thrown in for good measure )

good luck,

cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
 

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Absolutely what bazross said! Make sure you document which of the 2 door cables go where. Do what I did not do and take a picture of it while it is still attached to that back of the door handle. I got them put on in the wrong order and it was no having to redo all that work I had just done. If I remember correctly, the door will not open from inside and I had to use my alarm remote to unlock the door before I could open it from outside.
 

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I also put them in backwards once and almost went into a panic attack because the door handles will no longer open the door, and I was in the driver's seat. With the door closed you can no longer remove the panel to fix the error. I figured out that the door key turns into a door handle, which you can use to open the door.


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The good thing about the plastic clips (and the little "manhole cover" for the screw) is they are cheap, and readily available from local Toyota or internet. Often (if I am planning ahead), before I tackle an interior job is buy a couple of extras before starting.

But, as Bazros said, they hold up well.

Regarding sound deadening behind the doors: be sure that anything applied to the outer panels is not water absorbing (=rust). Someone mentioned feminine napkins, make sure something like that is only used in a permanently dry area.

One thing that can be really handy when curing rattle noises is felt tape (available at most hardware stores, in the crafts section) because you can stick it to the mating face between two plastic parts (colored plastic door inset panels anyone?) and prevent them from rattling together.


Tap your fingers on each panel before disassembly to find out which ones are making noise, then felt away while they are apart.

N
 

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The talented gentlemen at the stereo store did mine. I've taken the door panel off myself (to paint the mirror and replace the handles) and I would say it's been pretty easy. I've got a LOUD stereo and my doors don't rattle at all. Jump in the water's fine.
 

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Door panel removal takes about 5 minutes, just don't forget to take the 2 screws out before you start reefing on it. Use a bench under the door to hold the panel while disconnecting the switches and actuator rods to make it an easy one-person job.


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