Joined
·
15 Posts
So looks like my axle seal is blown. has anyone replaced it and if so how hard was it? looked for a thread on it and came up empty. any info would be greatly appreciated.
driver side axle seal
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Joined
·
15 Posts
heres a picture. maybe this will help. its front driver side.
Attachments
Joined
·
8,996 Posts
First you should power wash the entire area so you don't have to work in muck
You will need to disassemble the front.
Remove tire
remove 12 mm bolt from brake line bracket on the right side of the spindle
remove 2 17 mm bolts that hld the caliper on the spindle, use bailing wire to hang up the caliper on the frame so it doesnt stretch break lines
unclip abs sensor wire from the back side of hub, unclip wire clamps holding wire and put it aside where the caliper is
remove 2, 19 mm bolts from bottom of spindle
remove center dust cap on hub.
remove pin from center and retaining washer
36 mm socket to remove large hub nut
there are 4, 17 mm bolts on the back side of the hub that come off
pull hub and dust shield
you should be able pull the spindle away from the cv axle . If you havent drained the front dif you should do this now
flat head screw driver under truck at the base of the inner cv axle housing and try to snap it out of the housing It may take a little work
It's a c clip that just snaps the axle shaft out of a groove
the seal should be right in front of the housing it probably has to be pryed out
clean area and carefully tap the new seal in with a mallet using even pressure the carefully install the axle shaft back in the housing try not to scar the new seal . It will need to click in place to ensure it's in correct
reassemble
You will need to disassemble the front.
Remove tire
remove 12 mm bolt from brake line bracket on the right side of the spindle
remove 2 17 mm bolts that hld the caliper on the spindle, use bailing wire to hang up the caliper on the frame so it doesnt stretch break lines
unclip abs sensor wire from the back side of hub, unclip wire clamps holding wire and put it aside where the caliper is
remove 2, 19 mm bolts from bottom of spindle
remove center dust cap on hub.
remove pin from center and retaining washer
36 mm socket to remove large hub nut
there are 4, 17 mm bolts on the back side of the hub that come off
pull hub and dust shield
you should be able pull the spindle away from the cv axle . If you havent drained the front dif you should do this now
flat head screw driver under truck at the base of the inner cv axle housing and try to snap it out of the housing It may take a little work
It's a c clip that just snaps the axle shaft out of a groove
the seal should be right in front of the housing it probably has to be pryed out
clean area and carefully tap the new seal in with a mallet using even pressure the carefully install the axle shaft back in the housing try not to scar the new seal . It will need to click in place to ensure it's in correct
reassemble
Joined
·
15 Posts
thank you so much! thats the info i needed!
Joined
·
8,957 Posts
Wikid is AWESOME !.... Great Info !...
.....and to give it a chance... once you power wash it good, hit it with brakeclean so there no oil around, then drive it for a day or whatnot, to see if it's still leaking, once you have it cleaned, it's very easy to see if it is or not......
I only say this, since mine did the same thing... I did the above, added gearoil to top it off, and it has been fine since... I got lucky, but you never know ! ! !...
:thinkerg:....
.....and to give it a chance... once you power wash it good, hit it with brakeclean so there no oil around, then drive it for a day or whatnot, to see if it's still leaking, once you have it cleaned, it's very easy to see if it is or not......
I only say this, since mine did the same thing... I did the above, added gearoil to top it off, and it has been fine since... I got lucky, but you never know ! ! !...
:thinkerg:....
Joined
·
604 Posts
I just called Nappa and they do not have the part or the part #, neither does auto zone or o'riellys .
Well never mind guy's , the only place left for me was the dealer and they said part was $11.25 and that since my vehicle was still under drive train warranty they would fix it at no cost to me .
Thanks all .
Well never mind guy's , the only place left for me was the dealer and they said part was $11.25 and that since my vehicle was still under drive train warranty they would fix it at no cost to me .
Thanks all .
I have the exact same problem, with no mods to really speak of. I purchased my 07 FJ in 08' as a Toyota certified Vehical (7 year 100M). After having a rental for two days, they call to inform me that I need a CV Axle seal and it was not covered nor will the rental be covered. The said the repair was going to cost roughly 380.
Can anyone truely confirm within the coverage where it states this is covered or not?? I sill have 20M miles / 2 years of coverage and am about to get hosed. Please help
Can anyone truely confirm within the coverage where it states this is covered or not?? I sill have 20M miles / 2 years of coverage and am about to get hosed. Please help
Joined
·
160 Posts
35mm
Joined
·
8,996 Posts
You probably need to look over your warranty contract and ask them to show you why this repair will not be covered. The service tech, or manager, should be able to help clear this up for you to clarify if it should be covered. I wouldn't just take their word for it. Ask nicely for some clarification.
Joined
·
2,966 Posts
Joined
·
222 Posts
Do you need to get re-aligned after this? If seal replacement on inner side goal can you leave the axle in the hub and just pry out the inner axle connection letting the whole assembly swing out together? Or is that more of a PITA?
Video seems to describe Wikid's overview. Any Advice from the experienced welcomed.
Video seems to describe Wikid's overview. Any Advice from the experienced welcomed.
Joined
·
954 Posts
I just replaced the left and the right due to a clogged diff breather. We disassembled everything and removed the cv axels. I'm sure I should have gotten another alignment but I didn't do it. I'm not very good about re-aligning my truck after I do work to it. Generally as long as the wheels look straight , the steering wheel isn't off center, and nothing shakes while driving I have a tendency to procrastinate about getting it done. I do not endorse this for others however.
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Joined
·
71 Posts
I know this is a really OLD post but it's exactly the same problem that I'm encountering today. I have a 07 FJ Cruiser, 4WD, A/T, 260k miles, and it's leaking from the CV axle differential connection (driver side). I just replaced the original CV axle seal and installed after-market CV axles on both sides. Before doing this, it was leaking like hell, then, it leaks, less than before but it still leaks. I'm not sure if it's because of the after-market cv axles (from 1AAuto) or it's the cv axle seal itself. Any suggestions? By the way, I have a 3in lift kit installed.
Joined
·
4,251 Posts
Note post #17 above: clogged diff breather.
A clogged breather is the #1 reason why a new set of seals start leaking again. It is recommended that the breather be replaced whenever the seals are being serviced, for this reason.
Not a bad idea to replace them after, say, 100k miles, as preventative maintenance.
Norm
A clogged breather is the #1 reason why a new set of seals start leaking again. It is recommended that the breather be replaced whenever the seals are being serviced, for this reason.
Not a bad idea to replace them after, say, 100k miles, as preventative maintenance.
Norm
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Join the discussion
