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Getting supplies ordered for my 30k self service and have checked this via multiple searches.

Was going to pull the trigger on the Amsoil greases but it appears they are not making their Moly enhanced grease now.

Any recommends on both greases for the drive train, U and Slip (and yes I am OCD enough to use bith types per Toyota guidance)?

Thanks - Bob
 

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I saw both types at wally mart, and two cheapo grease guns that leak more than they actually put in, but for ~$25 for both plus the grease, I dont complain much.

I use moly fortified in one and lithium in the other. About two quick pumps into the driveline (2 times) and maybe 1 pump on the spiders (4 times). The spider grease gun got a flexible extension.
 

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A top-quality synthetic grease will meet or exceed any specs for Moly or Lithium-fortified NLGI No. 2 grease as specified in the factory service manual. I like synthetic grease because it has better cohesion (doesn't get squeezed out as easy, doesn't break down and allow water in) and has a higher melting temperature as well as not getting hard at extreme cold temps. I use Amsoil Series 2000 grease in every zerk in every truck, tractor, and motorcycle I own. But for your u-joints, it's much more important to grease them regularly than it is what kind of grease you put in them. IOW, a shot of cheap grease every 5,000 miles and after a deep-water/mud crossing is better than the most expensive grease once in a great while.
 

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I just used Mobil1 grease from my vintage (leaks juice) grease gun. The front driveshaft's rear-inner zerk is tough to reach for my gun, so I need to remove the frame-mounted shield below it. Being unsure of how much grease is enough I just give it a few pumps and a couple times could see a little of the old gunk ease out around the caps. Every oil change, 5K miles or sooner.

The hard part for me is getting the vehicle safely off the floor. The slight slope of my garage makes perching up on 4 jack stands look precarious. My latest technique is to drive it up a set of ramps for the front end, then chock those front wheels, then use the floor jack under the rear diff until the rear tires are off the ground and put jack stands under the frame. Got to be able to spin the driveshaft to get at the zerks. Don't forget the wheel chocks if you use ramps. I mushed the roof rack (and nearly myself) first time I did this and discovered that even in 4 low with parking brake applied the front wheels roll freely. :cowfrown:
 
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