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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
Loving my new FJ and going mod crazy!
This car drives makes you want to tinker with it, like no other...
All cosmetic so far...but I'm keen to understand how the mechanical parts work so that I can make sure all the mechanics are working well!
Roll on month 2!!!

Month 1!

1. Blacked out emblems
2. Trail Teams badge
3. Blacked out bumpers
4. Blacked out front valance
5. Blacked out side mirrors
6. Whited out grille surround
7. Replaced headlight halogens
8. Installed black door handles
9. Replaced spare tire
10. Rotated, reversed tires
11. Programmed remote so all unlock on one press
12. Sprayed anti rust (STA-BIL) on undercarriage
13. Installed TRD skid plate
14. Sprayed wheels
15. Replaced wiper blades
16. TRD Number plate mount & first decal!

NEXT UP, month 2..!
17 Install OEM hitch - PT228-60060
18 Install OEM lockable wheel nuts - PT276-35065
19.Install bike carrier - TBC - Recommendations? Thule T2 or Kuat Sherpa 2? Looking for a swing arm rack for 2 bikes ideally.
20.Install new stereo - TBC - Recommendations?...Apple Car Play friendly stereo w a great screen?
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Looks great

I am local if you want to check out my car play.

How come your trail team has white roof ? Don't they all have body color roof and body color seat inserts?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: 1st month, 16 mods..!!!

Looks great

I am local if you want to check out my car play.

How come your trail team has white roof ? Don't they all have body color roof and body color seat inserts?
The trail teams is a wannabe badge! I plan to update the shocks eventually so that in terms of spec it matches a trail teams...but I need to save up for that...:|
 

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Dang, egg, I'm pretty sure I'm a complete slacker now! :)
Lookin' good
 

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Looking very nice, but as you noted, mostly cosmetics.

Don't know the year model, odometer reading or service history of your new toy. However, if you want to keep it RUNNING flawlessly for the next 15 years, and you don't have a reliably documented service history for the following preventive maintenance tasks, you might consider:

1. Changing out ALL lubricants (both diffs, transfer case and transmission) with synthetic fluids;
2. Change engine coolant;
3. Flush brake fluid;
4. Change power steering fluid (several changes of fluid in reservoir over several days);
5. Clean MAF sensor in intake tract;
6. If not running Top Tier gasoline, do so exclusively, and add a bottle of Techron fuel injection cleaner through the gas just prior to every oil change;
7. Remove and carefully inspect the serpentine accessory drive belt, replace if there are any signs of wear. While the belt is off, check all idler pulleys for smooth rotation;
8. Modify breathers for rear differential and E-locker housings if there is any chance that you will ever run through water deeper than the top of the rear axle;
9. If a 2010 or later, run 10W-30 synthetic oil in engine rather than the low-viscosity 0W-20 recommended by Toyota, but ONLY for the US market in order to meet CAFE fuel economy goals and not for maximum engine longevity.

These service recommendations will help the driveline make it to 300K miles and beyond.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looking very nice, but as you noted, mostly cosmetics.

Don't know the year model, odometer reading or service history of your new toy. However, if you want to keep it RUNNING flawlessly for the next 15 years, and you don't have a reliably documented service history for the following preventive maintenance tasks, you might consider:

1. Changing out ALL lubricants (both diffs, transfer case and transmission) with synthetic fluids;
2. Change engine coolant;
3. Flush brake fluid;
4. Change power steering fluid (several changes of fluid in reservoir over several days);
5. Clean MAF sensor in intake tract;
6. If not running Top Tier gasoline, do so exclusively, and add a bottle of Techron fuel injection cleaner through the gas just prior to every oil change;
7. Remove and carefully inspect the serpentine accessory drive belt, replace if there are any signs of wear. While the belt is off, check all idler pulleys for smooth rotation;
8. Modify breathers for rear differential and E-locker housings if there is any chance that you will ever run through water deeper than the top of the rear axle;
9. If a 2010 or later, run 10W-30 synthetic oil in engine rather than the low-viscosity 0W-20 recommended by Toyota, but ONLY for the US market in order to meet CAFE fuel economy goals and not for maximum engine longevity.

These service recommendations will help the driveline make it to 300K miles and beyond.
Thanks so much for this advice...a lot of homework to do there but all very tasty.

In your opinion do you think a lot of this can be done in my own garage, or should some of this NOT be done by a novice?

Thanks again!
 

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(snip) In your opinion do you think a lot of this can be done in my own garage, or should some of this NOT be done by a novice? Thanks again!
It all depends on your level of mechanical aptitude and common sense, and what's in your tool box.

98% of this is very basic and straightforward, and should be easily within the capability of anyone with common sense and some basic level of mechanical aptitude.

However, we do see examples of well-intentioned would-be mechanics draining the transmission instead of the engine oil sump, adding another 6 quarts of oil to the engine (now a total of 12 qts), and trying to drive away with a grossly overfilled engine and a transmission now short 3 quarts of fluid.

Or stripping out the driving recess in drain plugs because of using the wrong size tool (3/8" male hex driver vs 10mm hex driver), or stripping the threads in engine or transmission pan drains because of having no "feel" for the correct tightening of a fastener, and not using a torque wrench if they lack the "feel".

Having said that, he only items on the list that might take any "special" equipment, or are a little more involved, are flushing the brake system and flushing the (automatic) transmission fluid.

If you've never done any of this previously, it might be best to have every process demonstrated to you by someone skilled in the art.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It all depends on your level of mechanical aptitude and common sense, and what's in your tool box.

98% of this is very basic and straightforward, and should be easily within the capability of anyone with common sense and some basic level of mechanical aptitude.

However, we do see examples of well-intentioned would-be mechanics draining the transmission instead of the engine oil sump, adding another 6 quarts of oil to the engine (now a total of 12 qts), and trying to drive away with a grossly overfilled engine and a transmission now short 3 quarts of fluid.

Or stripping out the driving recess in drain plugs because of using the wrong size tool (3/8" male hex driver vs 10mm hex driver), or stripping the threads in engine or transmission pan drains because of having no "feel" for the correct tightening of a fastener, and not using a torque wrench if they lack the "feel".

Having said that, he only items on the list that might take any "special" equipment, or are a little more involved, are flushing the brake system and flushing the (automatic) transmission fluid.

If you've never done any of this previously, it might be best to have every process demonstrated to you by someone skilled in the art.
Hi FJtest, I bought my FJ from a Toyota dealer...will they have done some of these things for me already?
 

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Hi FJtest, I bought my FJ from a Toyota dealer...will they have done some of these things for me already?
:rofl::rofl:nope the dealer (generalisation not specific to any particular dealership or brand) won't have filled the wrong fluids or stripped the bolts or hex heads because they probably never touched it despite charging you for doing so... they don't even remove wheels to inspect brake wear these days..
 

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Discussion Starter #20
:rofl::rofl:nope the dealer (generalisation not specific to any particular dealership or brand) won't have filled the wrong fluids or stripped the bolts or hex heads because they probably never touched it despite charging you for doing so... they don't even remove wheels to inspect brake wear these days..
OK....crap, if you need something done properly...you have to do it yourself I guess!
 
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