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:rofl::rofl:nope the dealer (generalisation not specific to any particular dealership or brand) won't have filled the wrong fluids or stripped the bolts or hex heads because they probably never touched it despite charging you for doing so... they don't even remove wheels to inspect brake wear these days..
I second this! Mine had a headlight, mirror marker light and license plate bulb out, dirty air filters and a blown fuse. The "125 point inspection" seems to have been lax at best. Based on said incompetence, I didn't even ask them to change any of those items.
@eggsandwich I like your mods so far, keep us updated!
 

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Hi FJtest, I bought my FJ from a Toyota dealer...will they have done some of these things for me already?
Generally not. When a dealership (any dealership) sells a used vehicle, to maximize profit they will do the absolute minimum required to make the vehicle salable.

This is typically just cosmetic "detailing", but may include installation of a set of cheap tires if the tire condition at the time of trade-in was really bad, minor paint touch-up, and maybe an oil change if overdue. When selling a used vehicle, a dealership is NOT obligated to fix any open recall issues.

Any other services or maintenance provided by the dealer would need to be negotiated by the buyer at the time of the sale.
 

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That FJ is looking great!:smile
 

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9. If a 2010 or later, run 10W-30 synthetic oil in engine rather than the low-viscosity 0W-20 recommended by Toyota, but ONLY for the US market in order to meet CAFE fuel economy goals and not for maximum engine longevity.

These service recommendations will help the driveline make it to 300K miles and beyond.
Would it hurt to switch from 0W-20 to 0W-30 after 115K miles?
 

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Would it hurt to switch from 0W-20 to 0W-30 after 115K miles?
Not at all, but I'd still go with 10W-30 rather than 0W anything.

Remember that in countries where Toyota doesn't have to comply with the US EPA's CAFE fuel economy requirements, for exactly the same 1GR-FE engine we have, Toyota recommends oil viscosities as high as 15W-40 or 20W-50.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Looking very nice, but as you noted, mostly cosmetics.

Don't know the year model, odometer reading or service history of your new toy. However, if you want to keep it RUNNING flawlessly for the next 15 years, and you don't have a reliably documented service history for the following preventive maintenance tasks, you might consider:

1. Changing out ALL lubricants (both diffs, transfer case and transmission) with synthetic fluids;
2. Change engine coolant;
3. Flush brake fluid;
4. Change power steering fluid (several changes of fluid in reservoir over several days);
5. Clean MAF sensor in intake tract;
6. If not running Top Tier gasoline, do so exclusively, and add a bottle of Techron fuel injection cleaner through the gas just prior to every oil change;
7. Remove and carefully inspect the serpentine accessory drive belt, replace if there are any signs of wear. While the belt is off, check all idler pulleys for smooth rotation;
8. Modify breathers for rear differential and E-locker housings if there is any chance that you will ever run through water deeper than the top of the rear axle;
9. If a 2010 or later, run 10W-30 synthetic oil in engine rather than the low-viscosity 0W-20 recommended by Toyota, but ONLY for the US market in order to meet CAFE fuel economy goals and not for maximum engine longevity.

These service recommendations will help the driveline make it to 300K miles and beyond.

Hi FJTest...I cleaned the MAF sensor (it looked pretty clean actually), and also added the fuel injection cleaner at my next gas refill.

2 follow up questions about the other recommended changes:

1) for the transmission fluid flush, I've looked at a lot of videos now on how to do that, and they always seem to replace the Strainer (part 35330-60050?) ...is this necessary?

2) Should I add changing the spark plugs? I am the 4th owner and the car has had 41k miles now. It's a 2011 FJ.
 

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Hi FJTest...I cleaned the MAF sensor (it looked pretty clean actually), and also added the fuel injection cleaner at my next gas refill.

2 follow up questions about the other recommended changes:

1) for the transmission fluid flush, I've looked at a lot of videos now on how to do that, and they always seem to replace the Strainer (part 35330-60050?) ...is this necessary?

2) Should I add changing the spark plugs? I am the 4th owner and the car has had 41k miles now. It's a 2011 FJ.
When you say you "cleaned the MAF sensor", are you ABSOLUTELY sure you cleaned the two tiny, delicate, difficult-to-see MAF sensor elements, and not the large "match-head" shaped intake air temp sensor? There are several YouTube vids out there incorrectly showing the MAF cleaning process.

Regarding the coarse screen at the AT pump pickup, there is no value in cleaning this during a routine fluid change. If the transmission has shed enough clutch debris or other material to even partially obstruct the screen, the transmission has far more serious problems than will be solved by a fluid flush.

Unless there has been some other fuel or ignition system fault, with only 41K miles on the plugs there should not be any compelling reason to change the spark plugs. For the dual VVTi engines, Toyota recommends the first spark plug change at 120K miles.

However, eight years is a long time for set of plugs to be sitting undisturbed in aluminum heads, and personally, I might be inclined to pull the plugs, "read" them carefully for any information they might provide about operating conditions in each cylinder, and then replace them with new iridium plugs (Denso SK20HR11). Apply a minimal amount of anti-seize to the threads and install to a torque value about 15% less than the specified torque (lubricated threads compensation). Then you can comfortably wait 100K miles until the next plug change.

(But, if you don't have an accurate torque wrench or a well-refined understanding of fastener tightening torque, don't eff with the plugs.)
 

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nothing quite like blowing the threads off a loose plug, or better yet stripping the threads...
Your big lugnut torque wrench is not accurate at 15lbs


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Discussion Starter #30
When you say you "cleaned the MAF sensor", are you ABSOLUTELY sure you cleaned the two tiny, delicate, difficult-to-see MAF sensor elements, and not the large "match-head" shaped intake air temp sensor? There are several YouTube vids out there incorrectly showing the MAF cleaning process.

Regarding the coarse screen at the AT pump pickup, there is no value in cleaning this during a routine fluid change. If the transmission has shed enough clutch debris or other material to even partially obstruct the screen, the transmission has far more serious problems than will be solved by a fluid flush.

Unless there has been some other fuel or ignition system fault, with only 41K miles on the plugs there should not be any compelling reason to change the spark plugs. For the dual VVTi engines, Toyota recommends the first spark plug change at 120K miles.

However, eight years is a long time for set of plugs to be sitting undisturbed in aluminum heads, and personally, I might be inclined to pull the plugs, "read" them carefully for any information they might provide about operating conditions in each cylinder, and then replace them with new iridium plugs (Denso SK20HR11). Apply a minimal amount of anti-seize to the threads and install to a torque value about 15% less than the specified torque (lubricated threads compensation). Then you can comfortably wait 100K miles until the next plug change.

(But, if you don't have an accurate torque wrench or a well-refined understanding of fastener tightening torque, don't eff with the plugs.)
For the MAF sensor...yes noted from different sources that the two MAF sensor elements are inside the unit...see pic:
 

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Discussion Starter #31
When you say you "cleaned the MAF sensor", are you ABSOLUTELY sure you cleaned the two tiny, delicate, difficult-to-see MAF sensor elements, and not the large "match-head" shaped intake air temp sensor? There are several YouTube vids out there incorrectly showing the MAF cleaning process.

Regarding the coarse screen at the AT pump pickup, there is no value in cleaning this during a routine fluid change. If the transmission has shed enough clutch debris or other material to even partially obstruct the screen, the transmission has far more serious problems than will be solved by a fluid flush.

Unless there has been some other fuel or ignition system fault, with only 41K miles on the plugs there should not be any compelling reason to change the spark plugs. For the dual VVTi engines, Toyota recommends the first spark plug change at 120K miles.

However, eight years is a long time for set of plugs to be sitting undisturbed in aluminum heads, and personally, I might be inclined to pull the plugs, "read" them carefully for any information they might provide about operating conditions in each cylinder, and then replace them with new iridium plugs (Denso SK20HR11). Apply a minimal amount of anti-seize to the threads and install to a torque value about 15% less than the specified torque (lubricated threads compensation). Then you can comfortably wait 100K miles until the next plug change.

(But, if you don't have an accurate torque wrench or a well-refined understanding of fastener tightening torque, don't eff with the plugs.)
For the plugs, I've watched plenty of videos and I do have a torque wrench...I worked out the other night that I am getting only about 14 mpg albeit almost 90% in town driving...so I was wondering if changing the spark plugs might help.

I saw some plugs advertised as being good for fuel economy...would that make a difference? Or else there's another long thread on these forums about how changing the thermostat? - this thread: https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/engine-performance/119773-fuel-mileage-9.html)...so that may help?...so much advice, not sure what to change up or if I should change anything!
 

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For the plugs, I've watched plenty of videos and I do have a torque wrench...I worked out the other night that I am getting only about 14 mpg albeit almost 90% in town driving...so I was wondering if changing the spark plugs might help.

I saw some plugs advertised as being good for fuel economy...would that make a difference? Or else there's another long thread on these forums about how changing the thermostat? - this thread: https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/engine-performance/119773-fuel-mileage-9.html)...so that may help?...so much advice, not sure what to change up or if I should change anything!
There are no magic spark plugs that will make your FJ go faster, make the exhaust sound more pleasing, or improve fuel economy. Use only the exact Denso plugs recommended by Toyota.

Seeing 14 MPG in stop-and-go traffic is probably typical for someone who is not consciously employing fuel-saving driving technique, such as:

1. Always anticipate stop lights, stop signs, and slowing traffic so you spend a lot of time coasting and very little time actively braking.

2. When accelerating, roll on the throttle very slowly and gradually, and do everything possible not to exceed a 2,000 RPM shift point.

3. Keep tire pressure towards the high end of the tire's rating: ~36 PSI for street tires, 45+ PSI for "E" load range all-terrain tires.

4. Keep wheel alignment spot on.

Seriously, 98% of the "control" of fuel consumption is directly linked to your right foot.

Absolutely the best thing you could do is buy a $25 Bluetooth OBDII monitor and run the $5 Torque Pro app on an Android device (phone or preferably a tablet). That will allow you to monitor (real time) the instantaneous and long-term fuel consumption. You will immediately be able to see the relationship between engine RPM, throttle opening, engine load, transmission gear, etc. and see how little it takes to drive fuel consumption into the single-digit range (<10 MPG).

Conservatively driven, I can average 21.5 MPG at 65-70 MPH on the highway with RTT, armor, sliders, fridge, etc. but it takes very careful driving to break 16 MPG around town (I have lots of moderate hills in my 30-45 MPH commute to work).
 

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Discussion Starter #33
There are no magic spark plugs that will make your FJ go faster, make the exhaust sound more pleasing, or improve fuel economy. Use only the exact Denso plugs recommended by Toyota.

Seeing 14 MPG in stop-and-go traffic is probably typical for someone who is not consciously employing fuel-saving driving technique, such as:

1. Always anticipate stop lights, stop signs, and slowing traffic so you spend a lot of time coasting and very little time actively braking.

2. When accelerating, roll on the throttle very slowly and gradually, and do everything possible not to exceed a 2,000 RPM shift point.

3. Keep tire pressure towards the high end of the tire's rating: ~36 PSI for street tires, 45+ PSI for "E" load range all-terrain tires.

4. Keep wheel alignment spot on.

Seriously, 98% of the "control" of fuel consumption is directly linked to your right foot.

Absolutely the best thing you could do is buy a $25 Bluetooth OBDII monitor and run the $5 Torque Pro app on an Android device (phone or preferably a tablet). That will allow you to monitor (real time) the instantaneous and long-term fuel consumption. You will immediately be able to see the relationship between engine RPM, throttle opening, engine load, transmission gear, etc. and see how little it takes to drive fuel consumption into the single-digit range (<10 MPG).

Conservatively driven, I can average 21.5 MPG at 65-70 MPH on the highway with RTT, armor, sliders, fridge, etc. but it takes very careful driving to break 16 MPG around town (I have lots of moderate hills in my 30-45 MPH commute to work).
Thanks FJTest...I guess I just didn't want to hear the truth about actual MPG. I told my colleague the other day I was getting 12-14 mpg and he said "welcome to truck driving!" Probably sums it up.

I tried driving keeping the revs below 2000 and it was quite possible...only jumps above 2k when I'm trying to accelerate ahead of someone.
 
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