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Just took another look and it doesn't appear that there's a zerk fitting. And yes, it definitely looks like everything was sprayed with a coat of paint. All but the coils.

The coolant level for the radiator appears to be between full and low so nothing off there. My guess is the spray happened before I bought it and it's all fixed now.

Don't think I can get to the bolt and washer on the UCA as is to tighten. Planning on taking my FJ in for a full checkup soon so will have them tighten that UCA as well.

Thanks all!
You really need to tighten that bolt, it is absolutely accessible. I’m sure there is a YouTube video that will take out all the guesswork on how-to


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Get an open wrench on that bolt and start tightening. That's your suspension and steering, dont keep driving it plz. If the nut IS gone and it backs out even more...
 

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You got to roll up your sleeves and fix that your damn self. If your going way off road you need to know how things work. You sit out along the trail hoping someone comes along can get lonely. In the SoCal desert it’s easy almost common not to have cell service.


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Discussion Starter #45
You got to roll up your sleeves and fix that your damn self. If your going way off road you need to know how things work. You sit out along the trail hoping someone comes along can get lonely. In the SoCal desert it’s easy almost common not to have cell service.


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I'm not opposed to fixing things myself. First challenge is knowing how to fix it and second is making sure it's fixed correctly.

If you check another thread post I had, I hacked up my spare tired carrier to get the spare wheel/tire to fit. Not pretty but got the job done. Like in this thread, it was the suggestion of other members that helped me get them done as I'm not mechanically savvy.
 

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Thanks for the open wrench suggestion. Tightened it as much as I could.

View attachment 1119053
Did I miss something or why can't you see if the nut is there on the opposite side?

https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/threads/1a-auto-parts-how-to-videos.738965/ #99


 

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Discussion Starter #48
Did I miss something or why can't you see if the nut is there on the opposite side?

https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/threads/1a-auto-parts-how-to-videos.738965/ #99

No you didn't miss something. The splash guards are installed making it difficult to get the socket wrenches in to tighten so I used to open wrenches as you suggested and tightened them up.

Here are pics of each side of the driver's front UCA:

1119064


1119065


1119066
 

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Why not just pull the plastic pins and drop the splash guard? You can buy new pins at any auto parts store. It looks like you could use a new set anyway. Zip ties :unsure: :ROFLMAO:

"First challenge is knowing how to fix it and second is making sure it's fixed correctly".

And 3rd is having the right tool for the job. There's 2 different size pins on those guards, 5/16" and 1/4". PURE sells a box of 25 for $12. Those removal tools are around $5-$10 each.

Welcome to the Busted Knuckle Garage! CHEERS ;)
 

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You can use a small flat head screwdriver to pop the center caps on the pushpin fasteners. But you’ll eventually mar a tight / stuck one, so best to buy a box and keep them on hand in the garage.

Trim removal tools are great investments if you like to wrench. They will save you a ton of time and aggravation.


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Discussion Starter #51
Why not just pull the plastic pins and drop the splash guard? You can buy new pins at any auto parts store. It looks like you could use a new set anyway. Zip ties :unsure: :ROFLMAO:

"First challenge is knowing how to fix it and second is making sure it's fixed correctly".

And 3rd is having the right tool for the job. There's 2 different size pins on those guards, 5/16" and 1/4". PURE sells a box of 25 for $12. Those removal tools are around $5-$10 each.

Welcome to the Busted Knuckle Garage! CHEERS ;)
You can use a small flat head screwdriver to pop the center caps on the pushpin fasteners. But you’ll eventually mar a tight / stuck one, so best to buy a box and keep them on hand in the garage.

Trim removal tools are great investments if you like to wrench. They will save you a ton of time and aggravation.


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Thank you both for the info! Is the issue that I used open wrenches to tighten it up or just helping me learn? Trying to make sure I understand.

Also, if I'm ordering new splash guards, should I order the standard ones or the "with lift"?
 

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Learning and that needs to be torqued to the proper spec. Those plastic bits have seen a lot of heat in 10 years, they're bound to be brittle and/or break.
 

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Learning and that needs to be torqued to the proper spec. Those plastic bits have seen a lot of heat in 10 years, they're bound to be brittle and/or break.
They’ll likely break into pieces when you start removing, mine certainly did, what was left of them.


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Discussion Starter #55
Learning and that needs to be torqued to the proper spec. Those plastic bits have seen a lot of heat in 10 years, they're bound to be brittle and/or break.
I don't want to take them off until I have a replacement.

Having said that, I'm planning on taking it in to a shop for a once over and ensure nothing else is off and the UCA is properly torqued. This will give me a chance to make sure nothing else is off, have it fixed properly and give me a chance to learn about other potential issues to watch out for in the future and the fixes for them.
 

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Unless you plan on flatbed towing it to a shop, I'd be more worried about the UCA being tight & torqued properly than worrying about plastic pins and a splash guard being in place, especially when you live in a dry area like you do.

Safety First, but hey that's just me.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Unless you plan on flatbed towing it to a shop, I'd be more worried about the UCA being tight & torqued properly than worrying about plastic pins and a splash guard being in place, especially when you live in a dry area like you do.

Safety First, but hey that's just me.
I'm not worried about the plastic pins at all. Not sure if I gave off that impression. I have tightened the UCA already, but guessing not to appropriate torque given I don't have a torque wrench (this will be my next tool investment). I've driven a couple times at short distances (stop and go traffic) and surface streets and bolt/nut still looks the same as when I tightened it. I've also brought along my wrenches to tighten if I start seeing a gap again. Planning on calling the shop shortly and see if they're open and have time to look over the car. I'm wanting them to look over all the mechanical aspects of the car. Stuff I wouldn't know to look at, let alone to fix, not the plastic splash guards or anything like that.
 

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"The splash guards are installed making it difficult to get the socket wrenches in to tighten "

Yes, you gave that impression.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
"The splash guards are installed making it difficult to get the socket wrenches in to tighten "

Yes, you gave that impression.
In that same post, I said that I used open wrenches and gotten the UCA tightened and posted pics of what it all looks like now. I appreciate all the info being provided to me and helping me learn more. I'll be heading to store to pick up a torque wrench and correctly tightening up the UCA to spec (85 lbs from what was suggested and I was able to find online in the SPC manual).

Seeing that the UCA was loose, I worry about other parts being loose or wearing down that may cause an issue on the road and off, which is why I want to take it to a shop to make sure everything is functioning as it should.
 
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