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Considering a DIY on your Engine/Motor mounts. This might help you decide if you can tackle it on your own or if you need to seek professional help.
So call it what you will, but the mount that goes from the frame to the engine can go bad. There are 100's of articles on how to determine if your mounts are bad or failing, so determine that first.

My mounts have been causing issues for the last year (Cold Air Intake Tube coming lose under high torque conditions), but I was being lazy and like to install cool upgrades, but motor mounts... that's boring. So I called my local trusted Toyota dealer in DFW, and they quoted $1100!!!. WTF! OEM mounts are $128/each ($85 on www.discountpartsmonster.com - OEM) and $55/each at Autozone for aftermarket. So a $110 in parts and $1000 labor... yep, lazy streak over.

This is a very doable job and you don't have to pull your engine. Look, this is NOT for the person that has to look up how to do an oil change, but it is pretty straight forward to figure out if you have some basic tools and mechanical aptitude. If you feel like you need a disclaimer about safety, liability, etc. stop reading now and seek professional help.

You will need the engine mounts, a floor jack, some ratcheting box-end wrenches (14, 17, 19 mm), standard and deep-well sockets of the same size plus 10, 12 mm, socket extensions, a breaker bar, patience, a buddy, and a few'ish beers each.
Take a look at the passenger's side, it is pretty accessible, so start there. The Driver's side will be a PITA.

Jack the front of your FJ up, put on jack stands, remove the wheels, remove the two inner splash guards (or what's left of them in my case), remove any of the tubes, cable, other crap that is in the way. I needed to remove the brake line brackets and the dipstick bracket just to make some room for my knuckles and a few wrenches.
You need to take the bracket off the engine and the motor mount off the frame. Loosen the bolts first then position your floor jack under the oil pan. Usa a piece of soft wood like a couple stacked pine 2x4s, to cushion the load. Jack it up until the pressure is off the mount. Now remove all of the bolts completely. You will also need to remove the front bracket on the frame that keeps the mount from rotating (front bottom under the mount).

Now remove the big center bolt in the middle of the mount. Jack the engine up a little higher, just enough to give clearance, don't put more strain on it than necessary. Then you can slide the bracket and mount forward, wiggle them apart, and then find the best spot to pull out the old mount.

Once out compare it to the new mount. I got the Duralast mount from Autozone; the height of the bolt spline wasn't an exact match for my existing mount and didn't fit the bracket quite right, but I was able to put the old one in a vise and remove the OEM bolt and sheet metal alignment plate. I replaced the Duralast bolt with the original OEM bolt and it worked great.

Slide the motor mount back in, line it up with the bracket and over the center bolt, work it into place, hand tighten the bracket to the engine, and then the mount to the frame. Hand tighten the center nut to the bolt, and then reinstall the front bracket on the frame. You can tighten the bracket and the mount down, but don't tighten the center bolt yet (don't forget about it, make a note, but you will need to tighten this after you finish the driver's side).

Damn… that wasn't too bad. One down and one to go. Beer break, if you are keeping up.

Lower the jack until the pressure is off the oil pan, this will help make it easier to get the driver's side bolts broken loose.

The Driver's side is a lot tighter work zone. The Starter and the Alternator are both in the way. I considered removing the Starter, but that proved more difficult. Hope the Starter doesn't go bad anytime soon. Remove the tubes and brackets that are in the way (break lines, and a couple other things).

There is room to get the mount out, but this one is going to require patience from your toolbox. This time remove the bolts holding the mount to the frame and the lower back bracket that keeps the mount from spinning. Remove the center bolt holding the mount to the engine bracket completely. I was able to just loosen the 3 bolts that hold the engine bracket in place and didn't need to remove them all the way, it looked very hard to get them lined back up with zero space. These were all a PITA to get to and remove, you need sockets, several long extensions, wobble socket extension, a breaker bar, and another beer.

Now get your buddy to jack the engine back up at the oil pan. Go slow, if you start to lift your rig off the jack stands, you need to loosen the center bolt on the passenger's side more. You need to jack the engine up just high enough to slide the mount toward the rear of the FJ. I couldn't get the mount past the exhaust to remove it from the bottom. I had to hand it up to my buddy and he reached down from the engine bay and pulled it out the top.

Same thing as the passenger's side, I had to replace the Duralast bolt with the OEM bolt because the spline at the bottom of the bolt was too long and interfered with the engine bracket.
Now put it back together! Hand the new mount back in from the engine bay. Get it positioned back into the bracket and hand tighten everything down. Damn... you did it; you are past the hard part. Now lower the jack back down. Tighten all the bolts down, I'm sure there are torque settings, but more than half the bolts you won't be able to get a torque wrench to them anyways. I used feel, and tightened them pretty tight. You need the bolts to be in tension, so get them tight so they don't come loose over time. While on the driver's side, reconnect all the brackets you removed so you could get to the mount. Put the splash guards back in and reinstall the tire.

Go back to the passenger's side... What are you forgetting?? Oh!! Now tighten the center bolt on the mount and recheck and/or tighten all the other bolts. Reinstall all the brackets you loosened, including the dipstick bracket, install the splashguards, and wheel. At this point, you shouldn't need more instruction.
Finish off all the beer. Damn for about $200 (parts and beer), you just saved $900.

I didn’t take pictures until after I was done, but this should help some.

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Great post and nicely detailed! A valuable contribution to the forum. Thank you!
 
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Should be very useful some day. Probably sooner than later. SAVED! Thanks.
 
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