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2015 FJ Cruiser
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have owned my FJ cruiser for a little over 3 years now and I feel it is time to start taking it on more adventures and modifying it as well. I want to start start off with a 285/70/17 tire, with a 2.5" lift. my concern is what may be the additional mods that I might need to do.

For example, from my research i know that I might need to do a body mount chop more or so depending on the offset. but my main issue is would I need to change the upper control arm or maybe just the ball joint? If so, what other measures should I consider to get ready for.
 

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I have the same set up that you mentioned,
OME 2.5" suspension / lift,
BF goodrich 33" KM3

No need for the BMC, I have a bit of rubbing on the upper A-Arm but nothing serious
if your budget can cover changing the upper A-arms i would say go for it
if not it ll be just fine, and the rubbing is mostly realted to the tires you choose
 

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and forgot to mention,
that this set up is the limit for the FJ if you dont want to start switching the factory parts...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I appreciate your prompt response Rokh!

Good to know, I've been told that Cooper tires might be a better option than BF goodrich solely regarding the weight.
 

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I’m running 285/75/16 which is slightly smaller than you’re planning along with 2.5” of lift up front.

I would recommend swapping out upper control arms if you have money in the budget. This would eliminate rubbing and allow for better alignment.

If you do wind up with tire rub at the body mount, I’d try Rad Rubber fender flaps before going full BMC. They fixed my rubbing problem.


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Yeah if you upgrade to 285/70R17s, depending on the wheels used and the alignment you get, you may or may not have rubbing. When I ran 285/75R16s (an equivalent tire size but on a 16" wheel) I wasn't lifted and I had no rubbing, and I've met others who have done the same thing and had no rubbing. But even if you do have rubbing, the body mount chop isn't a big deal and just makes it that much less likely to have rubbing.

As far as other mods go, If you plan to add a lift and you plan to really work the suspension hard, replacing control arms isn't a bad idea, especially the UCAs. But if you are just lifting it for light off-roading you would pretty much be fine. with the stock UCAs. Just make sure your lift is a suspension lift and not a spacer lift!
 

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SoloRanger22.
I get the impression that this may be your first suspension modification experience and that you don't want to spend a fortune. No worries.

First off, lifting the front of the FJ a true 2.5 inches will cause it to sit nose up. Adding 1 inch of lift in the rear will level its stance assuming you have no added weight in the rear. Most aftermarket rear springs for the FJ are advertised providing 1.5 inches of lift and upwards. Eibach sells rear springs that add 1 inch of lift or you can also achieve the height by adding a 1 inch spacer.

If you decide to go with a larger 2.5 inch diameter shock/strut combination you will absolutely need to change the upper control arms to clear the larger diameter springs. Something like the Bilstein 5100 which is a 2 inch diameter shock that utilities your stock springs can be used with the stock control arms and achieve 2.5 inches of lift. Having said that, at a full 2.5 inches of suspension lift, you will not have correct caster alignment using the stock control arms.

The fact that your posting questions on this site tells me that you want to perform this mod correctly. I highly recommend you incorporate upper control arms into your planning. Quality arms can be found for reasonable prices. Check out SPC and JBA arms. I do not recommend arms with uni-balls such as Total Chaos.

With proper Upper Control Arms, 2.5 inches of front lift and 1 inch in the rear, no additional modifications will be required and you should be able to 285/70's without any problems. I would however suggest but not necessary is the front differential drop kit. It's simply 2 spacers, 30 minutes of work and $40 bucks. The Diff drop kit will lesson the angles on you CV joints.

Below is my recommendation for a inexpensive but quality suspension lift.
Front
-JBA or SPC upper control arms.
-Bilstein 5100's front shocks set to max height / 2.5 inches. Your stock springs will be utilized.
-Differential drop kit.

Rear
-1 inch spacer or springs providing between 1 to 1.5 inches of lift.
-Bilstein 5100 rear shocks.

Note: changing your upper control arms will give you the option of going to a larger front shock/spring combination such as Bilstien's 6112's which are sold with springs and have height adjustments up to 2.5 inches of lift.

Hope this information helps. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
SoloRanger22.
I get the impression that this may be your first suspension modification experience and that you don't want to spend a fortune. No worries.

First off, lifting the front of the FJ a true 2.5 inches will cause it to sit nose up. Adding 1 inch of lift in the rear will level its stance assuming you have no added weight in the rear. Most aftermarket rear springs for the FJ are advertised providing 1.5 inches of lift and upwards. Eibach sells rear springs that add 1 inch of lift or you can also achieve the height by adding a 1 inch spacer.

If you decide to go with a larger 2.5 inch diameter shock/strut combination you will absolutely need to change the upper control arms to clear the larger diameter springs. Something like the Bilstein 5100 which is a 2 inch diameter shock that utilities your stock springs can be used with the stock control arms and achieve 2.5 inches of lift. Having said that, at a full 2.5 inches of suspension lift, you will not have correct caster alignment using the stock control arms.

The fact that your posting questions on this site tells me that you want to perform this mod correctly. I highly recommend you incorporate upper control arms into your planning. Quality arms can be found for reasonable prices. Check out SPC and JBA arms. I do not recommend arms with uni-balls such as Total Chaos.

With proper Upper Control Arms, 2.5 inches of front lift and 1 inch in the rear, no additional modifications will be required and you should be able to 285/70's without any problems. I would however suggest but not necessary is the front differential drop kit. It's simply 2 spacers, 30 minutes of work and $40 bucks. The Diff drop kit will lesson the angles on you CV joints.

Below is my recommendation for a inexpensive but quality suspension lift.
Front
-JBA or SPC upper control arms.
-Bilstein 5100's front shocks set to max height / 2.5 inches. Your stock springs will be utilized.
-Differential drop kit.

Rear
-1 inch spacer or springs providing between 1 to 1.5 inches of lift.
-Bilstein 5100 rear shocks.

Note: changing your upper control arms will give you the option of going to a larger front shock/spring combination such as Bilstien's 6112's which are sold with springs and have height adjustments up to 2.5 inches of lift.

Hope this information helps. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Indeed this is my first suspension modification and I do want to do it right and avoid any future issues. I appreciate your valuable insights!

Regarding the Bilsteins, I was thinking about them at the beginning. However, after speaking to a couple of folks they recommended Dobinson shocks. I should have mentioned that my target use is going to be mostly dunes and overlanding. With that said, what are the benefits of the Bilstien 5100 other than the adjustable capabilities and would it work well with my target use?
 

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Bilstein's are a quality, (per price point), general purpose shock for pavement and mild off-roading. If you're planning on running dunes and overlanding you may want a more substantial system, 2.5 inch diameter and possibly remote reservoirs but this will of-course drive up the cost. I've never ran Dobinson's so I can't speak to they're quality or performance. I've ran Old Man Emu systems on other vehicles with satisfying results and feel they are priced appropriately. I've also ran Fox but you're going to pay top dollar. I once spent a bucket of money on an Icon system and was completely dissatisfied with them.

Because of how you plan to wheel your FJ, the 5100's which are 2 inches in diameter may not be the right choice. Bilstein's 6112's are 2.5 inches in diameter and would be less prone to shock fade.

You're facing 2 obstacles; purchasing the correct system to meet your needs, and within a reasonable budget. We've all been there! I think the best advice I can give you is to keep researching and don't be quick to pull the trigger.
 

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I have 285/70-17 Falken Wildpeak A/T3W’s mounted to stock rims on my 2014 FJ. Using 5100’s at the highest setting in the front for 2.5” +/- of lift. I installed Toytec Superflex springs +2” in the rear along with 5100’s. The vehicle is virtually level. I did no BMC, had no problems getting it aligned and have no rubbing issues. It is very close on the UCA‘s, however. A different brand of tires or after market rims could yield a different result with the UCA’s. It rides and handles great - no negatives there, no complaints, whatsoever, with this setup. And, it does see it’s fair share of rocky, dirt trails. In an ideal world, I would have gone with new UCA‘s, just to maximize wheel travel. But, I can do that any time.
1137106
 
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