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BLUF: Does anyone know how to manually unlock (the key actuates a powered unlocking mechanism and doesn't manually unlock) the rear cargo door?


I scrimped and saved and purchased the Fab Fours rear bumper with spare tire swing arm. I installed it earlier today and have encountered a significant problem.



The directions state to cut the green wire and attach the green wire from the license plate light. I did so and it was a terrible mistake. I now know that the green wire is the power to the cargo door lock. When I wired in accordance with directions and shut my cargo door to attach my license plate, I was unable to reopen my cargo door. I can"t unlock with my key as turning the key completes a circuit and engages the lock/unlock mechanism which the green wire supplied with power. If anyone knows a way to unlock the rear cargo door without a key or power, you'll save me a chunk of money. I can open the rear window as that circuit was not compromised by the rear bumper install.



I really like the bumper and want to be happy with my purchase but this is one of those instances where a big problem brings to mind smaller problems and turns the entire experience sour.

1. $2500 for a bumper and no decal? Small problem, but you'd think they'd throw in a decal when laying out that much cheese

2. Missing hardware. The directions indicate hardware included, but it must have been left on the shop floor. Medium problem but frustration building

3. Customer service not open on weekends. Small problem, but frustrating when trying to rectify #2 . $10 outlay at Home Depot to purchase hardware and patience gone.

4. Jacked up instructions leading me to render my cargo door useless. Potential for significant cost to repair. Can't even call and roast them until 0900 Monday.

Anyone know the Owner/President/whatever for Fab Fours so that I may share my experience with him personally?


Insert angry emojis here
 

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I Have a V-8!! Moderator
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This thread shows how to make a modification to open the door from the inside, but the door has to be open to do it. However it shows where the rod is that opens the door and if I remember right there is a panel on the inside of the door that can be removed for access so you could pop that piece out and then reach in to open the door, I think. I know my FJ rear door wouldn't open because the latch got dirty and sticky and I was at my dealer and had them look at it and mentioned something about a panel. They had problems with mine because I had a Tuffy drawer in the back so it sat about 13" up and blocked that panel a bit. Hope this helps.


http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...3815-rear-door-inside-release-mod-w-pics.html
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This thread shows how to make a modification to open the door from the inside, but the door has to be open to do it. However it shows where the rod is that opens the door and if I remember right there is a panel on the inside of the door that can be removed for access so you could pop that piece out and then reach in to open the door, I think. I know my FJ rear door wouldn't open because the latch got dirty and sticky and I was at my dealer and had them look at it and mentioned something about a panel. They had problems with mine because I had a Tuffy drawer in the back so it sat about 13" up and blocked that panel a bit. Hope this helps.


http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...3815-rear-door-inside-release-mod-w-pics.html

I crawled in the back and I think this might work. Fortunately, I can open the rear window which will allow me to remove the cargo door panel. I'll post a follow-up and I believe you just saved me an expensive trip to the dealership. Thanks BIGGUY.
 

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I Have a V-8!! Moderator
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No problem. I hope it works for you and do let us know how it worked out for you.
 

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Wait a minute. The instructions posted say to T-tap the green wire, not to cut it. Breaking a circuit isn't the same as connecting to it.
 

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Wait a minute. The instructions posted say to T-tap the green wire, not to cut it. Breaking a circuit isn't the same as connecting to it.
Yes, the instructions you attached seem pretty concise about splicing into the green wire using a T-tap, and absolutely nothing about cutting the green wire.

Where did the "cut the green wire" directive come from?

There is a little square access panel on the passenger side of the rear door interior panel, but aside from an electrical connector the only thing I could see in there is the mechanical linkage (~1/8" diameter steel rod) from the rear door handle to the latch. This linkage is hard-connected to the door handle, but is only connected to the door latch mechanism when the key-operated solenoid is in the correct position.

There are also two round snap-in covers at the top corners of the door interior panel that allow access to the screws that hold the top of the panel in place. These covers can be reached from inside the vehicle, but I don't know if there is enough clearance to pull the interior panel open if the screws are removed.
 

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This thread shows how to make a modification to open the door from the inside, but the door has to be open to do it. However it shows where the rod is that opens the door and if I remember right there is a panel on the inside of the door that can be removed for access so you could pop that piece out and then reach in to open the door, I think. I know my FJ rear door wouldn't open because the latch got dirty and sticky and I was at my dealer and had them look at it and mentioned something about a panel. They had problems with mine because I had a Tuffy drawer in the back so it sat about 13" up and blocked that panel a bit. Hope this helps.
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...3815-rear-door-inside-release-mod-w-pics.html
I'm afraid this may not help the OP. The vertical rod attaches to the exterior door handle, and goes up to the door latch release mechanism. However, it looks like the top of the rod is either connected or disconnected from the latch by the key-operated solenoid. Reaching in and grabbing the rod with needle-nose pliers, etc. won't help if the rod is disconnected from the latch at its top end.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It worked. I was able to remove the back panel with the cargo door closed and reconnect the wire enabling me to unlock the door. Thanks for the assist and you saved me a bundle.
 
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I Have a V-8!! Moderator
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It worked. I was able to remove the back panel with the cargo door closed and reconnect the wire enabling me to unlock the door. Thanks for the assist and you saved me a bundle.
Awesome! Glad to hear that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, the instructions you attached seem pretty concise about splicing into the green wire using a T-tap, and absolutely nothing about cutting the green wire.

Where did the "cut the green wire" directive come from?

There is a little square access panel on the passenger side of the rear door interior panel, but aside from an electrical connector the only thing I could see in there is the mechanical linkage (~1/8" diameter steel rod) from the rear door handle to the latch. This linkage is hard-connected to the door handle, but is only connected to the door latch mechanism when the key-operated solenoid is in the correct position.

There are also two round snap-in covers at the top corners of the door interior panel that allow access to the screws that hold the top of the panel in place. These covers can be reached from inside the vehicle, but I don't know if there is enough clearance to pull the interior panel open if the screws are removed.
In hindsight, this was indeed the correct method to wire the license plate light and cutting the wire inevitably led to my troubles. In my defense, there were no T-Tap connectors supplied by Fab Fours, but rather two splice butt wiring connectors. I stupidly assumed a two way vice a three way connection. Perhaps the same individual who omitted the mounting hardware substituted splice butt connectors for T-Tap connectors.

Thanks to all for helping me [email protected]#$ my install.
 
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Depending on the size of the butt splice, the intent may have been to cut the wire and then re-terminate with an additional conductor inserted in one end. That will actually give you a better connection that a T-tap.
 
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