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I recently replaced my FJammer with a Pioneer AVIC-F90BT and everything is working great. Reviewing the factory wiring diagram, I noticed speaker power to the front and rears are split by a junction connector.

The F90BT has built-in speaker power MOSFET 50W x 4, continuous power output 22W x 4. Since the fronts and rears are split (dash/doors & rear/headliner), does this mean each speaker is getting half of the output respectively? How are the watts distributed?

I’ve noticed the stock speakers sound even worse with the upgraded head unit (not surprised) . It’s probably due to the increase in power. So, looks like it’s time to replace the factory speakers. I like components for the front (6.5 and tweeter), either Polk or JL. For now, I’m not going to add amps.

Questions:
1.) If the headliner speakers are disconnected, does this distribute more power to the rear speakers or is the power still distributed through the junction connector but not used? In another words, will the rears pull more power if the headliner speakers are disconnected?

2.) Same question for the front. If I disconnect the front dash speakers and replace with tweeters, (connected with new wire from a crossover) will the 6.5 speakers draw more power since the speakers in the dash are not connected to the factory harness?

Thanks for any input on this.
 

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Thanks for the info, I think this answers my questions. I read the thread by simadownnow6988 and want to verify a few things.

Install the component woofers in the door location and the tweeters in the dash location. Your total ohm load will be 4 ohms per front channel (perfect).
When wiring the component tweeters in the dash, they should NOT be connected to the factory front dash wiring correct? I will need to run a new set of speaker wire from the crossover, most likely in the door, to the tweeters.

Does this sound right? Stock speaker wire in door connects to aftermarket plug/adaptor (so I don't cut factory plug) -> to crossoover -> out of crossover to 6.5 in door and another to the tweeter in the dash. This would eliminate the front speakers running in parallel with the door speakers.

I could then swap my rears with a 4 ohm 3.5s and disconnect the headliner speakers.

Sounds simple enough.
 

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I'm not an expert, so please keep that in mind. :)

You will want to connector your component speakers(tweet/mid) to the crossover. The "crossover" is basically the load that will be seen by the receiver, which should be a 4 ohm load with the speakers attached.

Putting in a set of 4 ohm speakers in the back and disconnecting the roof speakers would give you a 4 ohm load for the rear channel.

So you end up with a 4 ohm load for both the front and back channels.

According to this pdf file: Speaker Circuit

The front two speaker are wired in parallel giving 2.66 ohms for a load.

The rear and roof speakers are wired in parallel giving 2.66 ohms as well. If you don't have the rear speakers, then it's an 4 ohm load(roof speakers).

The sub has its own amp, so its load is not seen by the receiver, although it is wired (through the amp) to the rear channels for the signal.

So it appears that the stock receiver can handle anywhere from 2.66 to 4 ohm, 4 ohm being preferred.

I'm sure if I'm wrong someone will correct me REAL quick. :lol:
 

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i recently utilized the factory plug located above the glove box to wire my front components. the input and door output are on one side of the connector, the tweeters in the dash are on the other side of the connector. i cut the connector off (no intentions on ever putting factory speakers in, and will leave the existing ones installed if i sell it) a simple test to find out what wire was what, and using the tweeter to obtain wire color/polarity i did not have to run a single wire, and the crossovers stow nicely in the area between the radio and the glove box upper cover. i did take a couple pics on my blackberry...ill upload them soon if there is interest.
 

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FJWirfel, please post the pics and expand on your explanation - this sounds like the way to go.
 

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sorry for taking so long to reply. i dont check this side of the forum much.

If you take the upper cover off your glove box, you will find 2 connectors. the Yellow one is for your air bags, the other is where your front speakers are split.

if you look at the plug, you will see blue, green, pink and purple wires. You will see the same color at the dash speaker.

the dash speaker has red/black wires on it, but at the connector it changes to the blue/green or pink/purple depending on which side (left/right)

when looking at the connector above the glove box, you will see 2 sets going into one side, and one set coming out of the other side. the 2 sets are the input from the head unit, and the output to the door speaker. the other side is to the tweeter. i used the tweeter i was installing to find the input from the head unit (at low volume) when you unplug this connector, you will notice the tweeter shut off, confirming the tweeter wires, the doors are the 2 that are left.

there is just enough wire there to hookup the crossover. i left about 2 inches on the plug in case i want to re-attach them for some reason.

my pics didnt come out too well, but if you take a look at yours, you will get the idea i think.

feel free to PM me with other questions
 

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I recently replaced my FJammer with a Pioneer AVIC-F90BT and everything is working great. Reviewing the factory wiring diagram, I noticed speaker power to the front and rears are split by a junction connector.

The F90BT has built-in speaker power MOSFET 50W x 4, continuous power output 22W x 4. Since the fronts and rears are split (dash/doors & rear/headliner), does this mean each speaker is getting half of the output respectively? How are the watts distributed?

I’ve noticed the stock speakers sound even worse with the upgraded head unit (not surprised) . It’s probably due to the increase in power. So, looks like it’s time to replace the factory speakers. I like components for the front (6.5 and tweeter), either Polk or JL. For now, I’m not going to add amps.

Questions:
1.) If the headliner speakers are disconnected, does this distribute more power to the rear speakers or is the power still distributed through the junction connector but not used? In another words, will the rears pull more power if the headliner speakers are disconnected?

2.) Same question for the front. If I disconnect the front dash speakers and replace with tweeters, (connected with new wire from a crossover) will the 6.5 speakers draw more power since the speakers in the dash are not connected to the factory harness?

Thanks for any input on this.
Your stock speakers sound worse because of the reduced impedence (ohm load) If you look at the diagram that was posted, the factory tweeters had an 8 ohm impedence. when you wire them in parallel (+ to + & - to -) with the woofers, you end up with an impedence around 6 ohms. Most aftermarket radios including Pioneer when I sold them - max their output at 4 ohms. So what is happening when you connect your factory speakers to the aftermarket radio is effectively increasing the impedence of the radio. This reduces the power output. If you swap out the tweeters for some that are rated at 4 ohms and run them in parallel with your woofers, it will lower the impedence back around 2 or 3 ohms and the sound should be much better. Ideally though, if you are adding separate woofers and tweeters, you should add a suitable amp. It's always better to over power the speakers and turn down the gain on the amp...
 

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anyone have photos or where to disconnect the ceiling roof transducer speakers? thanks
its in the drivers kick panel. i believe it is the only connector with 4 wires in it. i knew it was down there, and unplugged the first 4 wire connector i found by itself, and it was it. looking at the diagram however, i think you will still be going through the junction box.

if you wire the front components like i did, your receiver will see the 4 ohm load from the crossover network/components (i tested this with my Ohm meter to be sure there was nothing else in line, including capacitors, ect (bass blockers which were on the factory tweeters)
 

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Thanks, worked out well, all speakers are now at 4ohms stable, and re-wired sub and amp and all is kickin well...by far my best audio system setup ever, and I did it myself...
 

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Does anyone know what the standard (6) speaker radio is rated for? I read somewhere that it was something like 22x4 ch @ 4 ohms.. I'm looking at some HU alternatives and it would seem senseless if I ended up with an after market unit rated at a lower value..


j.p.
 

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Has anyone tried Boston Acoustics Pro 60SE speakers, they seem to be rated @ 3ohms & 91db sens.
From the spec sheet these would seem a great upgrade.

Regards,
j.p
 

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On the 6 speaker system is the roof liner exciter speaker still 4 ohm? I ask this because I just installed a new head unit and I installed a set of componets for the door/dash with a 4ohm rating and since I do NOT have the rear speakers in the D pillars I figure the roof exciters running at 4ohm would be stable for my head unit if I just left them in there. Set the head unit to 70% front 30% rear and leave it at that.

No reason to add speakers to the rear if I don't have to.
 

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ceiling and door speakers are rated for 20W, dash/rear rated for 9W, Stock sub is rated for 60 watts

I'd measure ohm rating at harness mpfjr, but anything above 2ohms will be fine for the headunit. Although I would definitely run rear speakers to fill the void, can't imagine listening to a stereo with FADE moved all the way to Front.
 

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I think I'll just unplug the roof speakers and install some speakers in the rear but I have to find some good options for those. I'll just vamp the oem plugs. Some nice 4" 4ohm speakers will probably work great.


Edit: Unplugging the roof speakers also kills the back up camera so I'd have to unplug the plug and remove the pins for the speakers and plug it back in. Too much of a head ache to do that. Besides, the 2010 plug is not down in the kick panel where everyone elses is. :(
 

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I see the FJ speaker specs above and then I found this. I find it hard to believe the Fjammer is 327 watts total. Even if it is peak power ratings it still seems high. But then again, I have never even hit 17mpg and they up to 21, so I guess it is a theoetical peak.....
 

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