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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well for weeks now I thought my Ujoints were going, I brought them in for inspection 2 times and they swore they were good.
I couldnt figure it out. and it was getting progressivly worse, every time I hit the gas KLUNK, every time I went over a bump or washboard road, KLUNKLUNKLUNK. after inspecting everything myself I noteced My AllPro rear LCA's would move forward and back and side to side on the front end if I wiggled the truck. I was 90 percent positive that the bushings were shot because of the movement and the pencil lead kinda dust that was coming out of there. i really couldnt tear into it till I got home. Well the bushings were just fine. I did however find that when I dropped the LCA skid that the thing was rattling around inside the mount and actually wore a groove onto the inside. I figured no prob, throw the skid back up and crank it down tight.
No dice, got it to about 45 foot pounds and still was rattling around. the skids wouldnt allow the sides to crush in on it anymore. Again I dropped the bolt and skid and placed a flat washer between the outer side of the mount and the inner side of the skid, tightened it down to speck and VIOLLA, the cunky rattle is gone!!! Eventually I am going to need to get a new thicker wall mount welded on but for now I'm riding stealth mode again. SOO freaking happy!!
 

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Well for weeks now I thought my Ujoints were going, I brought them in for inspection 2 times and they swore they were good.
I couldnt figure it out. and it was getting progressivly worse, every time I hit the gas KLUNK, every time I went over a bump or washboard road, KLUNKLUNKLUNK. after inspecting everything myself I noteced My AllPro rear LCA's would move forward and back and side to side on the front end if I wiggled the truck. I was 90 percent positive that the bushings were shot because of the movement and the pencil lead kinda dust that was coming out of there. i really couldnt tear into it till I got home. Well the bushings were just fine. I did however find that when I dropped the LCA skid that the thing was rattling around inside the mount and actually wore a groove onto the inside. I figured no prob, throw the skid back up and crank it down tight.
No dice, got it to about 45 foot pounds and still was rattling around. the skids wouldnt allow the sides to crush in on it anymore. Again I dropped the bolt and skid and placed a flat washer between the outer side of the mount and the inner side of the skid, tightened it down to speck and VIOLLA, the cunky rattle is gone!!! Eventually I am going to need to get a new thicker wall mount welded on but for now I'm riding stealth mode again. SOO freaking happy!!
Thanks man!

I just picked up a set when I was at the Summit and I'll conduct a preemptive attack by welding on washers on the inside before installing the arm skids. Any idea what the thickness of your washers were?

Super glad you posted up. I'm a superfreak about rattles, groans, squeaks, etc. That's why I don't have the ghetto ARB foglight inserts in my bumper. With the amount of offroad driving I do, they squeak like hell. I'm having Bud build a set of bolt through inserts that I'm putting a different light insert into.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks man!

I just picked up a set when I was at the Summit and I'll conduct a preemptive attack by welding on washers on the inside before installing the arm skids. Any idea what the thickness of your washers were?

Super glad you posted up. I'm a superfreak about rattles, groans, squeaks, etc. That's why I don't have the ghetto ARB foglight inserts in my bumper. With the amount of offroad driving I do, they squeak like hell. I'm having Bud build a set of bolt through inserts that I'm putting a different light insert into.
Kinda just standard washer thickness, nit the paper thin ones, these are about 2 inches across and mabey an 1/8th inch thick mabey. be sure to put them between the skid and the mount, not the mount and the LCA, or mabey that would work too. trial and error i guess.
 

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Kinda just standard washer thickness, nit the paper thin ones, these are about 2 inches across and mabey an 1/8th inch thick mabey. be sure to put them between the skid and the mount, not the mount and the LCA, or mabey that would work too. trial and error i guess.

Right on. I'll try both, then burn them in there with the trusty mig. One final test fit and then a quick grind and paint.

Thanks again!
 

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If you're going to do anything with the welder... I suggest to replace the entire link capture with plate steel. Mine are 1/4".

This is the point at which your rear axle pushes your car. It's amazing that it's as wimpy as it is, considering that it's the equivalent of a tow hook in terms of mechanical stress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you're going to do anything with the welder... I suggest to replace the entire link capture with plate steel. Mine are 1/4".

This is the point at which your rear axle pushes your car. It's amazing that it's as wimpy as it is, considering that it's the equivalent of a tow hook in terms of mechanical stress.
Indeed this is the best route. Like I stated the center spacer on the flex grommit has ground out a little seat for itself already. if I ever get around to the body mount chop I am going to get this done too. but for a short term fix this will work.
 

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If you're going to do anything with the welder... I suggest to replace the entire link capture with plate steel. Mine are 1/4".

This is the point at which your rear axle pushes your car. It's amazing that it's as wimpy as it is, considering that it's the equivalent of a tow hook in terms of mechanical stress.
Did you weld them yourself or get them done at a shop? I'm just curious, because 1/4" is pretty tough to weld properly if I recall, and would best be done with a TIG.
 

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i think someone else was having a problem with the LCA mount holes being bored out after installing bolt on LCA skids. i have a pair of All-Pro LCA skids that i have not installed yet. i am a little hesitant to install them now. anyone else have this problem after installing bolt on LCA skids?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i think someone else was having a problem with the LCA mount holes being bored out after installing bolt on LCA skids. i have a pair of All-Pro LCA skids that i have not installed yet. i am a little hesitant to install them now. anyone else have this problem after installing bolt on LCA skids?
Actually I believe people without them are having this issue too, the only thing is with them all they had to do is tighten the bolt down to crush in on the center spacer since the frame mount is so thin. Once you put on the Bolt on skids you kind of loose this option since the skids are so much thicker. the washer seems to do the trick though it is a REAL tight fit to get it between the sKid and outer side of the mount. I needed to use a big ass screwdriver and wedge it in there to drop the washer in and line it up.
And for anyone removing these bolts. PLEASE FOR THE LOVE OF YOUR TRUCK USE RED THREADLOCKER when reinstalling them and tourque them down. One of the worst things that could happen is to loose a rear LCA on trail or HWY. your whole rear will swing out int worst case and cause major damage or worse.
 

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Did you weld them yourself or get them done at a shop? I'm just curious, because 1/4" is pretty tough to weld properly if I recall, and would best be done with a TIG.
The ones on my rig were done by someone else quite a while back and are holding up well. They were jobbed out so that this project and a crossmember could be built while I was working and driving a rental car.

I've done this modification on a friend's rig myself, and used the MIG. I'd vote MIG over TIG because of the faster weld. This requires welding a thick plate onto a comparatively thin walled frame. I needed to run the heat lower and the wire speed higher to accomodate the situation.
 
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