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Discussion Starter #61
Re: Fj Cruiser Dana 60 By ECGS.

just awesome. work of art!!

some day I will get one of these.

R u going with matching one for the front as well??

:cheers:


I was quoted $15K for SAS to do just the front lol, for $15K I can just buy another truck. It Is not a wise decision and it's not worth it. I will beef up the front end and call it done.
If I have to do some crazy stuff, I will borrow my brother's Rock Crawler which has a LS7 and Atlas T-Case and get it out of my system.

Cheers


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Discussion Starter #62
Fj Cruiser Dana 60 By ECGS.

Now I'm on the fence. Thanks alot HERSOG! :lol:
You are very welcome.

I very much doubt that the Daynatrac for Tacoma will fit the Fj, first of here are some final numbers from Chase.
ECGS HOUSING STOCK WIDTH Fj 63.895"
DRIVER: 31.835"
PASS: 30.535"
Driver side is slightly long which makes sense, since it would need to clear the "FUEL TANK"

Also Daynatrac will not do any modification to the axle.
If you decide to weld brackets on that axle it will void the warranty Immediately.
I have been to their facility, and need to say I just don't approve the way their tech assembles
the axles.

One major problem they have is, they use an impact gun to torque the pinion nut. In the Dana-Spicer manual states that an impact gun she'll never be used to torque the pinion nut, since it will cause scoring on the inner races of bearings since the use of an impact wrench will cause the bearing to bounce up and down and side to side inside the case and will reduce the life of bearing and in some cases catastrophic failure.

The correct method is to use a hydraulic wrench with continuous motion or an specialty torque wrench which is made to torque the pinion nut.

The final tally for the Fj60 from Chase was $4405, I also purchase order parts from him but I did not include that into this.
Included the $200 for FedEx and a extra $60 for the use of lift gate/straight delivery into my garage since I didn't want to break my back lol.

I don't think anyone in this industry can't beat this price and a 5 year warranty with Chase/ECGS

"Edit" he might adjust the price since this was the first unit out officially, but it is still a great deal.

Dennis







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Re: Fj Cruiser Dana 60 By ECGS.

One major problem they have is, they use an impact gun to torque the pinion nut. In the Dana-Spicer manual states that an impact gun she'll never be used to torque the pinion nut, since it will cause scoring on the inner races of bearings since the use of an impact wrench will cause the bearing to bounce up and down and side to side inside the case and will reduce the life of bearing and in some cases catastrophic failure.

The correct method is to use a hydraulic wrench with continuous motion or an specialty torque wrench which is made to torque the pinion nut.
This is not good practice on any differential, the correct way is to use a torque multiplier such as this and then final torque with torque wrench.



 

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Re: Fj Cruiser Dana 60 By ECGS.

You are very welcome.

I very much doubt that the Daynatrac for Tacoma will fit the Fj, first of here are some final numbers from Chase.
ECGS HOUSING STOCK WIDTH Fj 63.895"
DRIVER: 31.835"
PASS: 30.535"
Driver side is slightly long which makes sense, since it would need to clear the "FUEL TANK"

Also Daynatrac will not do any modification to the axle.
If you decide to weld brackets on that axle it will void the warranty Immediately.
I have been to their facility, and need to say I just don't approve the way their tech assembles
the axles.

One major problem they have is, they use an impact gun to torque the pinion nut. In the Dana-Spicer manual states that an impact gun she'll never be used to torque the pinion nut, since it will cause scoring on the inner races of bearings since the use of an impact wrench will cause the bearing to bounce up and down and side to side inside the case and will reduce the life of bearing and in some cases catastrophic failure.

The correct method is to use a hydraulic wrench with continuous motion or an specialty torque wrench which is made to torque the pinion nut.

The final tally for the Fj60 from Chase was $4405, I also purchase order parts from him but I did not include that into this.
Included the $200 for FedEx and a extra $60 for the use of lift gate/straight delivery into my garage since I didn't want to break my back lol.

I don't think anyone in this industry can't beat this price and a 5 year warranty with Chase/ECGS

"Edit" he might adjust the price since this was the first unit out officially, but it is still a great deal.

Dennis







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Appreciate you posting this. I wanted to ask but didn't want to be rude. That price is amazing! You ended up with a superior product along with a warranty for less than the Currie.

To help put things in perspective I'm in $4k to my door for the second hand rockjock with ARB and panhard. It was bolt on ready, no messing with the backing plates or shafts but I did buy a press and jig just in case. When you factor those in I'm real close to your $4,400 mark. Well past it with on board air :( especially with the Springtail rack and Bussmann relay kit. All that and I'm running on the wrong side of the gears :rofl:
 

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Re: Fj Cruiser Dana 60 By ECGS.

I agree. $4400 is an awesome price for that beefy thing. My diamond with ARB was $4200 but no panhard. I need to inquire about getting a panhard like that built for me...possibly with a Johnny joint too lol.
 

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Re: Fj Cruiser Dana 60 By ECGS.

Wow that thing looks awesome! Really great that it came with the backing plates, e-brake, and lines already installed. The Currie is definitely more work to install. It's "bolt-in" in that no welding needs to be done, but all the little things add up, and getting the bearings on/off the axles is no small task. If I were to do it again with this as an option I think it's a no brainer over the Currie.

Also the OEM diff lock switch, are you keeping it just to kill the ABS/traction when in 2H or 4H? I didn't think about keeping it since I only use the locker in 4L really, though I've used it in 4H and din't think about killing the electronics. Hmm...
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Re: Fj Cruiser Dana 60 By ECGS.

To help put things in perspective I'm in $4k to my door for the second hand rockjock with ARB and panhard. It was bolt on ready, no messing with the backing plates or shafts but I did buy a press and jig just in case. When you factor those in I'm real close to your $4,400 mark. Well past it with on board air :( especially with the Springtail rack and Bussmann relay kit. All that and I'm running on the wrong side of the gears :rofl:

istambull, you a have great axle there and you did get it for a great deal. I very much doubt you or Football751 and all those others that have the RJ60 will ever break the ring and pinion. Currie was my first chose, but after talking to my sister I just couldn’t do it. She has a PhD in mechanical engineering and applied mechanics and lol she would have disowned me.

istambull, you are good man.

Cheers



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Discussion Starter #68
Re: Fj Cruiser Dana 60 By ECGS.

Also the OEM diff lock switch, are you keeping it just to kill the ABS/traction when in 2H or 4H? I didn't think about keeping it since I only use the locker in 4L really, though I've used it in 4H and din't think about killing the electronics. Hmm...

I just kept the switch in the dash to kill the ABS/traction when locking the rear diff or front



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Discussion Starter #70
Fj Cruiser Dana 60 By ECGS.

@HERSOG looking great! Did you have to shorten the driveshaft any? Otherwise they can pretty much build it to be bolt-on, parking brakes and all right?


Yes, I am keeping the slip yoke for the transfer case side and getting rid of the rest of the driveline. Getting a 1350 u joint for the axle and DOM tube for the entire length of the driveline. Will post some pices once I get it. The total distant was 42” 3/4. The new one will be much shorter.


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Discussion Starter #71
Fj Cruiser Dana 60 By ECGS.

Some updates.

The 500 miles break-in period is done.

Got some metal shavings on the magnet which is normal.
But before driving it ran into a different problem.

So when I took it to my friends alignment shop and unfortunately we couldn’t use the track bar that was provided by Chase and we couldn’t center the axle. not Chase’s fault.

So I stopped by ICON spoke with Dillon one of the engineers at ICON a very cool guy and we started to look if he has any track-bar in his arsenal that we can use in the rear of the Fj and can clear the massive diff cover, and after few minutes, Bingo!!!!! “Jeep JK rear adjustable Track Bar” part# 21025 it has the same bolt size 5/8” which is M14 on the Fj.

All I needed to do was to close the gap, since the bushings on JK track bar is a bit shorter, got some stainless steel flat washers drill the openings to 5/8” and 4 flat washers on the other end to keep it parallel with the axle, and took it back to the my friends alignment shop again and after fine turning the heim joint with the adjuster ring, the computer showed 00.0 degree which meant the rear axle is now dead center in relation to the front wheels.

So, from now on no one should be struggling for the rear track bar for any aftermarket axle. Just get that ICON track bar which makes life much easier and call it done.

Also routed the airline for the locker the same way that the brake lines are routed and this way it is not running any more.

I notice when I was diving the Truck, it feels more stable in cornering since the axle is a bit heavier than the OE.

Cheers.

h



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Discussion Starter #74
Re: Fj Cruiser Dana 60 By ECGS.

Freaking awesome. I've been needing a panhard like that to clear the inspection cap on the Diamond. Thanks!!


Glad I could help. Every once in a while when we are looking for parts, we hit jackpot.


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Re: Fj Cruiser Dana 60 By ECGS.

Wow, very nice! I couldn't clear the original cast diff cover Currie sent me for the RJ60, they were nice enough to send me a lower profile cover the clears just fine now. I searched for a bent track bar for the FJ and could never find one, awesome that the Jeep will fit. Was the original bar sent by Chase not adjustable, and thus that's why you couldn't center the axle?

Nice to live close to vendors like ICON!
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Fj Cruiser Dana 60 By ECGS.

Wow, very nice! I couldn't clear the original cast diff cover Currie sent me for the RJ60, they were nice enough to send me a lower profile cover the clears just fine now. I searched for a bent track bar for the FJ and could never find one, awesome that the Jeep will fit. Was the original bar sent by Chase not adjustable, and thus that's why you couldn't center the axle?

Nice to live close to vendors like ICON!


The track bar I got from Chase was off by 1/8” in other words too long and non-adjustable and I could drive it like that, but I decided to stop by ICON.

I must say the upper management at ICON are very cool guys and every time I go over there they always take the time to answer all my questions.
They are only 20 minutes from me.

Finally the jeep came in handy for smelting lol.

Cheers


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Re: Fj Cruiser Dana 60 By ECGS.

@HERSOG have you played around with the adjustable panhard mount I see ECGS has on the diff? Its my understanding that a more level panhard increases the ride quality and compensates after lifting. Just curious, thinking about having Diamond weld mine up higher or I might modify it after the fact.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Fj Cruiser Dana 60 By ECGS.

@Iconic I had a talk with chase last year and he said.

The last hole on the top is for the guys that want to go much higher lift from the rest of the guys, it is mostly for SAS and 37” tiers or so.
It is a standard practice in my shop and we calculate that on every axle we build so the owner doesn’t have to change the pan hard.

But it is good to know if one day I want to go SAS I don’t have to change the Track-Bar/Panhard I just go up one hole or 2 and adjust the Heim on the other end to keep the axle in the center.

It is definitely a must-have bracket and it would be cool if diamond could incorporate that into your axle.

The last hole on the bottom is for me, lol.




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Pretty cool they are making these for Tacomas now! Its all on their website.

@HERSOG I assume the axle is still working out perfectly? My brother is about to order one for his 4runner. Lead time is still 30-45 days, no big deal all things considered. I'm about to cut cords with my Diamond. 14 month wait so far, just waiting for the front Marlin RCLT to come out, that's the only thing keeping me holding on.

ECGS said the rule of thumb is to take 1" out of the driveshaft. My brother is buying a used one from eBay for <$100 and taking it to a shop to mod it.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Pretty cool they are making these for Tacomas now! Its all on their website.

@HERSOG I assume the axle is still working out perfectly? My brother is about to order one for his 4runner. Lead time is still 30-45 days, no big deal all things considered. I'm about to cut cords with my Diamond. 14 month wait so far, just waiting for the front Marlin RCLT to come out, that's the only thing keeping me holding on.

ECGS said the rule of thumb is to take 1" out of the driveshaft. My brother is buying a used one from eBay for <$100 and taking it to a shop to mod it.


It is working fantastic so far and I am betting it hard and it is holding up pretty good.

The drive line is at 43. 25” end to end and when I took the drive shaft to the shop to be shortened they cut way more than 1” lol.


Tell your brother to tell the shop he needs the drive shaft to be made from DOM tubing and that’s how mine was made out of.

I told the technician to keep the transfer case side Toyota and the other end is a 1350 U joint to the axle and a Yukon fogged 1350 yoke on the pinion gear.

Also I told Chase to tilt the pinion by 2° towards the belly of the truck to keep it away from the obstacles on the trail.

Also I am not using the stock sway bar sine it wasn’t doing it’s job and I want with Currie sway bat, but since than I found a different company that can make a sway bar and a much better price http://1speedway.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=76



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