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FJ Cruiser Windshield Branch Wire/Deflector

25383 Views 34 Replies 15 Participants Last post by  an0nym0us
5
Hello,
Shortly after installing (a few hours :lol:) my new ARB front bumper on my 2013 TT. I Decided to add a Branch deflector cable to.. well.. deflect branches while on the trail. I then posted the results on a threat an got one or two PMs asking for advice/guide on how to do it and if I had bought a kit. To my knowledge there is no kit and I think no one has done it on an FJ Cruiser (at least no one in PR that im aware). I got the idea from a friend who has a land cruiser and he added the branch wires and I saw it was a really good idea + cheap insurance against those pesky branches that seem to fall from nowhere haha. This is my first writeup and this I thought this up from my head without even sketching it, so any further comments to make the design better are more than welcomed. Note there isn't tons of pictures at the moment, but ill add more soon if people become confused or need help.

As you know, the FJ Cruiser has a really steep angle from bumper to roof rack compared to land cruisers, so adding these wires only seems possible if you have an ARB or some type of bumper with hoops that bases can be attached to. Also, it helped a lot that I had a light bar, but you can also add an eye-bolt to the stock roof rack and paint it so it doesn't stand out too much.

Parts (HomeDepot or any common store).
2 Eye-Bolts Stainless-Steel
2 1/8" Galvanized Steel Cable
2 Tensioners with one eye-bolt and a hook at the other end (easy to undo to open the hood)
2 KC HiLites Light Mount Tube Clamp Bar 1.75" to 2" Black Bracket (depends on hoops tube diameter, these work with ARB if you remove one of the two rubber traction pads).
6 Spring Links 1/4
4 Cable Ferrule 1/8 (or a bit bigger if you don't wish to strip the cable insulation).
2 Nuts the size of the bolts in the tensioners (step 9).

Procedure:
1) I bought 6ft of 1/8in insulated galvanized cable and I trimmed it later to the appropriate length. For my setup it was a rough distance of 62inches from ARB hoop to light bar. You must factor the length of the opened tensioner, eye bolts and spring links. So before cutting the cable at your house (better have a heavy duty wire/chain cutter) measure the length of each item together (the tensioner should be completely open as you can close the distance later) to achieve roughly the length you need. This is the length between the bumper hoops and the roof rack eye-bolt. Since the bumper KC mount can be moved, I suggest you measure in the middle, therefore you can calibrate it a bit more later. Remember measure twice and cut once.

NOTE: Remember to measure the length of cable considering the loop in the cable your making, if you measure the straight cable it will be too short for when you create the loop to mount your spring link. A couple of inches on each side is good as you can tighten your loop to achieve the length desired.

2) If you got a 1/8 Cable Ferrule, you must CAREFULLY Strip the insulation. Its kinda like stripping the insulation on a high gauge electrical cable. Best way is to use a good scissor and the top part of the insulation so you can peel it away. Much safer method.

3) Create the cable loop and insert your cable clamp of cable ferrule, once you have achieved the loop to the desire length, tighten the clamp. I used a good cable clamp to make my life easier, after 4 clamps you will thank me. :lol:. Repeat this with each cable.

4) Use electrical tape to create a wrap at the clamp all the way down until the end where the cable meets its folded end. This will ensure it doesn't come apart and adds protection and keeps the end from moving and becoming spliced. (You can also use shrink wrap. I did this and added electrical tape, found it a bit of an overkill but I wasn't too sure as to how much is too much).

5) Mount the KC light bases to the bumper hoops. This is easily done and don't tighten so you can move them.

6) This is where it changes, for me I had the light bar so I drilled two holes in the light bar to hold my eye-bolts. If you don't have/don't wish to mount to the light bar, just mount them vertically in the roof rack at the sides. Ill take some tweaking but its the same process as mine. Be sure that the cables will clear the top windshield plastic piece and tug on it.

7)Once the eye-bolts are in place its pretty much easy set up. Mount the spring links/shackles to the top eye bolts and connect to one of the cable loops. Then connect the other side of the cable to the cable tensioner using another spring link/shackle and mount the shackle to the KC bumper base. If you bought the tensioner with an eye bolt an a hook, its easier since you can remove and install in a second.

8) Move the KC bases to the correct position you want in regards to windshield and visibility. It all depends on where previous experience has you noticed where branches usually swipe and hit the windshield. I put mine close to the middle as I could; but ill be trial-error to get it right where you want.

9) Tighten the cable tensioner until cables don't move and are in place. I suggest you add a nut to the bottom of each tensioner bolt because normal vibrations will slack the cables and you will need to keep tensioning them. It could be a wing nut to keep it simple.

Pictures:
KC MOUNT BASE:

Cable With Tensioner eye/hook


Completed Cable with Insulation, Tensioner and spring links:


Results:





NOTES:
1)I am aware that the hood doesn't open as easily, yet its extremely easy to undo the tensioners and pop the hood. If you have an easier and quicker disconnect please share.
2)This is still work in progress, from design to doing it took me about 1 hour. I had an idea of what I needed but it came all together once I went to home depot. Maybe I overlooked something that would make for a better designed, so please share.
3)I am fully aware a brach could hit the lights in the light bar. But they are way stronger and at a higher level than the windshield, so they have less of a risk. Also this branch wire isn't a replacement for slow/careful driving and also taking care of any overgrowth that might impede your way. They are simply to just give you a peace of mind and help. But responsible driving is far superior than any kind of mod you can do.
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That's an awesome idea Fjsedajr !! Great write-up !!!

My rig has sort of turned itself into a sort of Safari setup :lol: so this will be awesome !!
I'm sure I'll be slow about it, but I'll let you know how the install goes :cheers:
Thanks buddy !!!
That's an awesome idea Fjsedajr !! Great write-up !!!



My rig has sort of turned itself into a sort of Safari setup :lol: so this will be awesome !!

I'm sure I'll be slow about it, but I'll let you know how the install goes :cheers:

Thanks buddy !!!

Hahaha thanks! Post pics to see how you have done it!
Fantastic! Thanks!
Hahaha thanks! Post pics to see how you have done it!
I will !!! I will have to alter a little too, since I will probably use a clamp on the roof rack, I might put a tensioner on both ends, whatever I need to make it completely removable (except the clamps) :lol:, depends on the clamp. :bigthumb:
I will !!! I will have to alter a little too, since I will probably use a clamp on the roof rack, I might put a tensioner on both ends, whatever I need to make it completely removable (except the clamps) :lol:, depends on the clamp. :bigthumb:

Hahaha true. I have to redesign it and ill post and updated version with pictures and more measurements.

Still thinking if there is a way to quick disconnect like a link you can twist and be done with. But I think the tensioner with a hook its the best way. I undid mine today. Took me literally 10-20seconds on each one so i think i cant beat that hahaha.
Great write up, I bought the parts to do this some time ago, just haven't gotten around to it. I am planning to put one of these in line with the limb lift wire. There is quite a bit of flex between the frame and bumper and this should compensate for it. You only need the big spring, the chain and small spring aren't used.

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Great write up, I bought the parts to do this some time ago, just haven't gotten around to it. I am planning to put one of these in line with the limb lift wire. There is quite a bit of flex between the frame and bumper and this should compensate for it. You only need the big spring, the chain and small spring aren't used.


Thats a great idea! Ill look into that to see what i can do in my setup! Thanks for the tip!
nice limb risers
Yeah I was going to mention the flex. On the trail, without springs, I would think some damage could result.

good example if you have not already seen it

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/4x4-off-road-tech/64646-diy-limb-risers-2.html#post1042856
Yep. The spring is a great idea. Im definently putting one when I redo it and ill post the changes for future projects. Thanks for the feedback!
:lol: Just ordered a pair of springs too :lol: I had no idea it would have THAT much tension.
hmm ill have to check this out after work since the pix are blocked here... sounds like a good idea!
I redid the assembly and tied it to the roofrack instead of light bar. I didn't add springs because i left my cables a bit untensioned. They have about an ½ inch of play. I just cutted the cable longer this time and added a clamp and adjusted it so i can have the tensioner fully closed and its barely tensioned, enough so it doesnt have slack but where it doesnt have a lot of tension. I find it this way easier to work. I ordered the springs just to test out the suggestions and ill se what i can make up. Ill post revisions later. Vehicle Motor vehicle Transport Car Automotive exterior
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Good call. Here is an old post by Wikid that shows a good amount of body/bumper flex
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/foru...-pic-3-lift-w-1-25-body-lift.html#post2014943
I've had a set of these for a couple of years now and in my experience, the spring is not necessary. The tensioners will loosen on their own after the vehicle flexes on trails. It requires that you periodically get out and re-tighten the tensioner but on most trail rides there is no shortage of stop and go so it isn't really inconvenient. Just my experience and others may have a differing opinion. My preference was to have more wire between rack and bumper and less "hangers".

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Automotive exterior Hood



Sent from AutoGuide.com App
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10
Installed DO Hi-Lift clamps on top of bumper, mounted the Hi-Lift, installed Limb Risers, and cleaned up the military medical cargo boxes :lol:












I'll post more tomorrow with more details for OP to add to his first post :cheers:
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Outstanding thread and posts. I'm been thinking about doig this for some time now, and I think i go get the parts today now. Any recommendations on how to attach to stock roof rack (eyebolt?).
Outstanding thread and posts. I'm been thinking about doig this for some time now, and I think i go get the parts today now. Any recommendations on how to attach to stock roof rack (eyebolt?).
Nevermind, I see how ya described mounting to roof rack.
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