Did you also get the amp?
Fj subwoofer stock
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
i also got 07fj w/ no factory sub, considered adding one but ppl on this forum said the factory sub already includes the amp mounted inside the sub enclosure? and it's only a 60-watt amp w/ 30 to rear pillars (which i do not have) and 30 to the sub? then to operate properly, somehow bypass or connect into a purchased subwoofer switch (depending on the connections made behind ur headUnit..) else stock amp refuses to Power On?
With factory wiring already routed to rear cargo area by Toyota, i found it ez to mount a $60 pioneer amp (gma3702) and connect the Pwr, Gnd, and remote/sensor leads myself. Amp turns on and off automatically w/ acc ignition, no need to fuss w/ any switch or button.. i specifically chose that amp bcuz factory wires looked super thin like 22GA! Plus schematic shows Pwr wire running off a 20A fuse: i figured 20A x 14.4V batt means the amp should stay under 280-ish watts? That pioneer is PERFECT (150Wx2 @4 ohms but i bridged so [email protected]?), reputable brand, highly-rated, and for $60!? It even takes the fj's speaker-level inputs (in addition to rca)..
For subs i tried:
Let's see if a pic uploads from my mobile (i've since strapped the box to the right so rear left seat can fold down)..
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Also (thx if ur still reading
for front door speakers, do NOT get anything other than 6x9 (my kicker 46CSS694 thump surprisingly hard but were $120) because i tried a few 6" and 6.5" w/ all sorts of adapters (yes i dynamatted front doors) before realizing that if u look at the inside of the door panel (the one w/ the built-in speaker grill, the one u remove to access mounting screws of door speakers..), it has a plastic-molded baffle that is shaped and sized @6x9 (so no other speaker size is better suited for the door cavity; other sizes inherently introduce some level of cone leakage, they can't map/fit properly to the door cutout and thus sound crappy).
With factory wiring already routed to rear cargo area by Toyota, i found it ez to mount a $60 pioneer amp (gma3702) and connect the Pwr, Gnd, and remote/sensor leads myself. Amp turns on and off automatically w/ acc ignition, no need to fuss w/ any switch or button.. i specifically chose that amp bcuz factory wires looked super thin like 22GA! Plus schematic shows Pwr wire running off a 20A fuse: i figured 20A x 14.4V batt means the amp should stay under 280-ish watts? That pioneer is PERFECT (150Wx2 @4 ohms but i bridged so [email protected]?), reputable brand, highly-rated, and for $60!? It even takes the fj's speaker-level inputs (in addition to rca)..
For subs i tried:
- a 12" Bazooka (not feel anything @lowlow end like under ~60Hz, then too punchy >100Hz)
- dual Kicker 12's in sealed box (sounds boss but too much rattling even w/ dynaMat in back, then too little to no cargo space)
- Kicker 48TRPT42 which is like dual 8's in a box (see next pt below) that fits perfect in factory sub location (could not feel any more bass than that provided by kicker 6x9's in front doors.. tried most amp/deck adjustment combos)
- finally found balance w/ the Kicker 48TCWRT122, which looks like dual 12's but it's actually only a single 12" w/ a 12" passive radiator (which allows the sealed sub enclosure to be thin/shallow, yet sound low just like a ported box). i don't feel the power of dual 12's obviously but i can tell it hits lower frequencies harder (most notes <70Hz) than a typical single 12, plus it conserves cargo space and sounds cleaner somehow w/o so much rattling from dual-powered subs.
Let's see if a pic uploads from my mobile (i've since strapped the box to the right so rear left seat can fold down)..
Also (thx if ur still reading
for front door speakers, do NOT get anything other than 6x9 (my kicker 46CSS694 thump surprisingly hard but were $120) because i tried a few 6" and 6.5" w/ all sorts of adapters (yes i dynamatted front doors) before realizing that if u look at the inside of the door panel (the one w/ the built-in speaker grill, the one u remove to access mounting screws of door speakers..), it has a plastic-molded baffle that is shaped and sized @6x9 (so no other speaker size is better suited for the door cavity; other sizes inherently introduce some level of cone leakage, they can't map/fit properly to the door cutout and thus sound crappy).
Funny that what wet my whistle for FJ ownership was an FJ auction that ebay helpfully introduced me to. It was from Rockfor-Fosgate, and had been built to be a rolling advertisement for their brand. It had something like 20 speakers in it from bazooka tubs and a fold down speaker installation in the rear, and speaking of the rear, it had something like 6 power amps all screwed to the floor in the back. It was custom painted and looked really amazing, but the whole 'we don't want to deafen you, we want to deafen that guy on the next block' was a little stunning. Like what would the resale value be for all that equipment, and how to remove all of the extra batteries and wiring. It was all very professionally installed, at least looked that way. I have often wondered who ended up with it, and if they kept everything in it. (Are they here by chance?)i also got 07fj w/ no factory sub, considered adding one but ppl on this forum said the factory sub already includes the amp mounted inside the sub enclosure? and it's only a 60-watt amp w/ 30 to rear pillars (which i do not have) and 30 to the sub? then to operate properly, somehow bypass or connect into a purchased subwoofer switch (depending on the connections made behind ur headUnit..) else stock amp refuses to Power On?
With factory wiring already routed to rear cargo area by Toyota, i found it ez to mount a $60 pioneer amp (gma3702) and connect the Pwr, Gnd, and remote/sensor leads myself. Amp turns on and off automatically w/ acc ignition, no need to fuss w/ any switch or button.. i specifically chose that amp bcuz factory wires looked super thin like 22GA! Plus schematic shows Pwr wire running off a 20A fuse: i figured 20A x 14.4V batt means the amp should stay under 280-ish watts? That pioneer is PERFECT (150Wx2 @4 ohms but i bridged so [email protected]?), reputable brand, highly-rated, and for $60!? It even takes the fj's speaker-level inputs (in addition to rca)..
For subs i tried:
- a 12" Bazooka (not feel anything @lowlow end like under ~60Hz, then too punchy >100Hz)
- dual Kicker 12's in sealed box (sounds boss but too much rattling even w/ dynaMat in back, then too little to no cargo space)
- Kicker 48TRPT42 which is like dual 8's in a box (see next pt below) that fits perfect in factory sub location (could not feel any more bass than that provided by kicker 6x9's in front doors.. tried most amp/deck adjustment combos)
- finally found balance w/ the Kicker 48TCWRT122, which looks like dual 12's but it's actually only a single 12" w/ a 12" passive radiator (which allows the sealed sub enclosure to be thin/shallow, yet sound low just like a ported box). i don't feel the power of dual 12's obviously but i can tell it hits lower frequencies harder (most notes <70Hz) than a typical single 12, plus it conserves cargo space and sounds cleaner somehow w/o so much rattling from dual-powered subs.
Let's see if a pic uploads from my mobile (i've since strapped the box to the right so rear left seat can fold down).. View attachment 1231215
View attachment 1231216
Also (thx if ur still reading
I was amazed by the huge gauge of wire I saw snaking around that car. Wow... Terminal blocks, etc... If that didn't rattle the windows, nothing will.
I did have the experience of having the rear view mirror vibrating. The sub works. Oh yeah, mine sure did.
And, dangit!, this has gotten me thinking of replacing my stock head unit. You guys... I put Alpine in the Mercedes I had, and was determined to not leave it in when I effectively donated it to a mechanic there. Still have it, unfortunately. So out of date, wouldn't be worth installing in the FJ.
But what head unit is the best? Is it a standard DIN size?1 - 12 of 12 Posts
