Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I know there are numerous threads on this but i wanted to be very precise with my problem..

So I want to amp all the speakers in the vehicle.. I have the fjjammer and the stock sub.. I also somehow have the toyota fj tvs in the head rest to..they are wired threw the fjjammer to. so i think i need to keep it which i don't mind.. what do i need to speaker amp all the speakers? I'm confused due to there's tweeters and normal door drivers. are they all ran to the fjjammer or dose it go to the drive and then the tweater,,,

so my two questions.

1. What RCA converter do i use
2. How many channel amp do i need
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,087 Posts
Are you keeping the stock speakers or upgrading them as well?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,087 Posts
I don't know, these are some of the cheapest looking stock speakers I think I've ever seen. The magnets are about the size of quarters.

To answer your original question, the front tweeters and full range are wired together after the head unit. The rear tweeters and the roof speakers are also wired together. The subwoofer has inputs from both rear speakers going into it's amp. In other words, there are four pairs of speaker wire leaving the head unit. I don't know the ohm ratings though. If you're going to amp the sub, you'll need to bypass the stock amp in the subwoofer housing. A five channel amp will work fine with 1 channel for each corner and one for the sub. Again, I don't know what ohm rating will be required of the amp since I don't know what the speakers are rated for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
I built a box for an MTX Jackhammer 10" Subwoofer in the stock location (I have storage boxes along the length of the truck I use to hide everything). My first pass was to install an amp to run the new sub off the input from the stock Head unit.

So that sounded like CRAP. The stock head unit just isn't set up for it. The stock sub is really more like a large speaker; it sounds terrible when you send that signal to a real subwoofer that is designed to handle only low frequencies.

I just installed a new head unit. The stock speakers actually sound pretty good with the increased power. The only issue I'm having now is that there is something rattling in the back of the truck ...and I can't find it, since it only shows up every once in a while, and apparently doesn't want to cooperate.

I am planning on ripping everything out of the back of the truck to dynamat everything rear of the suicide doors. That should fix the problem, but man, what a pain in the ass.

Forgive my rambling, but I guess my two points are:
:rawr:If you're going to do anything, plan on replacing the Head unit first. That seems to make the most difference.
:rawr:Don't do anything unless you plan on going all the way with it, because it probably won't sound right until you replace most of the major components.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,087 Posts
That's interesting, I'm using the FJammer's signal to my amp's built-in crossover and out to my sub and it sounds as good as any aftermarket head unit I've used. I made my own RCA input, but I know that doesn't have anything to do with it. I did use the signals going into the stock amp, not the ones coming out however. That's probably the difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I don't know, these are some of the cheapest looking stock speakers I think I've ever seen. The magnets are about the size of quarters.

To answer your original question, the front tweeters and full range are wired together after the head unit. The rear tweeters and the roof speakers are also wired together. The subwoofer has inputs from both rear speakers going into it's amp. In other words, there are four pairs of speaker wire leaving the head unit. I don't know the ohm ratings though. If you're going to amp the sub, you'll need to bypass the stock amp in the subwoofer housing. A five channel amp will work fine with 1 channel for each corner and one for the sub. Again, I don't know what ohm rating will be required of the amp since I don't know what the speakers are rated for.
Thank you.. my only question i guess for now is if i am to amp the 4 sets of wires isn't it going to send more power to the sub amp, do to its ran off the rear door speaker wires?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,087 Posts
Yeah, it would send more to the amp and I don't know what would happen. It might handle it fine and not make any difference, it might get a little louder or it might fry some circuitry... who knows?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,394 Posts
Get the JL audio 5 channel HD 900x5

Reason: from 2 to 8 ohm you get the same amount of power no matter the ohm of the speaker. Its 100x4 and 500x1 RMS Digital which is plenty of power for anyone.

Replace the stock speakers amplifying them will create a fire eventually. They are not designed to be amplified with to much power and will get extremely hot. Don't believe me amplify one out of the door wait ten minutes then touch the magnet, You will only do it once. I buy speakers on ebay and you can normally get very high quality JL speakers for more than 1/2 off msrp. I highly recommend the z series if you want great speakers.

The head unit would be where I would start as stated above. Minimum of 4 gauge wire for this set up too. power wires driver side, signal wires passenger side will help with signal noise. Distribution block in the back will be nice for other accessories too:).

The TV's probably aren't hooked up to the radio they just use a wireless RF signal to get the sound to go through the speakers. Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
I spliced into the wiring pre-amp as well. I just wasn't happy with it. Sounds a lot better now...but to each his own.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top