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Hi all,

I am posting this thread as proof that a 6MT can be flat towed w/o issues. I am in no way telling you to do it(warranty), that is up to you. I don't have warranty and I don't really care if my FJ would have gotten damaged, hence giving it a try.

Maybe some of you recall a member here (Brushrunner Joe) also towed theirs over 36k miles w/o incident. I have personally talked to him on the phone and talking with him gave me the courage to also tow mine.

I am posting video proof that shows the FJ behind my Motorhome. Road speed (65mph). Distance traveled at time video was taken(2276). T-case temp, FJ running to show no xmas lights(minus skid and center lock, Tcase in N). I am also posting pics of the FJ hooked up.
As Joe stated in his thread, the Tcase is to be set in N position and the transmission is best set in 4th.
When making turns while towing, the FJs front wheels barely turn. So binding is minimal if at all, more likely to skid with slow speeds. In the video, you'll see the tightest turn I have done with the FJ. It is hard to see, but in the mirror, you can see the FJ barely turning the front wheels.

To date: I have flat towed the FJC 6MT over 4k miles with the longest tow in one day being from Mt.Rushmore to Janesville, WI (830mi). Longest trip was from Chicago to Yellowstonre to Rushmore and back home.

The tow vehicle 2011 Diesel Pusher aka DogHouse


FJC connected to RV

FJC tow setup


Demco Excali-Bar II tow bar
OK offroad 7/8" shackle mount
shackle to tow bar adapter



The video (please excuse the shaky parts)
Fast forwarded to part that gets interesting
2007 6MT FJC Flat Tow - 2m47s

I only had to splice a single wire for my braking/lighting setup.

Again, this thread is not to say to do it, but more to say it can be done.


UPDATE: Wiring Diagrams and parts needed for Electrical

The Tow brake controller I installed is made by USgear
Depending on your RV type, you'll have less or more work. My Diesel Pusher was prewired, so I am only showing the FJ wiring Diagrams.
http://www.usgear.cc/unified_tow_brake.htm
US GEAR for FJ
http://www.usgear.cc/utb_install/utb_installtvh.htm





I also installed a 2 wire to 3 wire converter.
http://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Curt/C56196.html
Which allows me to direct tap into the FJCs lighting system.
This allows for all markers lights to be used and all the turn signal lights. And to our luck, the way the FJ is wired, back feed from the RV does not mess up the ECUs. It is internally protected. I tested this by tearing into my FJ (More then just once, since ownership).


The schematic in full with US gear brake system and FJC page numbers


Supplement to schematic (locations of taps)


For the STOP lights, all you have to do is wire into pin 3 of the STOP RELAY
I choose to drill a hole in my relay and solder the wire in the relay (replace relay for uninstall)


For the turn signals, you can either tap the blue and pink wires located behind the interior fuse panel, directly at the turn relay(other locations too, door jam) or you can pull the relay and directly solder on the relay like I did. (Desolder or cut wires for uninstall)
This image only shows how where I routed my wires to the back side(right), I couldn't get a d700 behind there :(


For the Running lights, all you need to do is Add-A-Fuse in the slot next to the 10amp Tail Fuse.
It is literally parallel connected to the 10amp Tail Fuse and is not connected to anything else (easy uninstall).



For the brake booster power, you can either tap at the master cylinder or in the interior fuse box at the plug. I choose engine room, because it is documented on the USgear site. Also, I didn't look to see if there was another spot. (uninstall by removing diodes and reconnecting orange/black wire)


All wires are routed through here
 

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So....when will you be picking me up and where are we going?!
 
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Swicago how did you hook up your tow bars to the ARB? I've called about mounting plates but no one can answer me. Any info you have on this would be great, and why fourth. I've also read the article about T/case in the H/road and the trans in neutral but never saw anything more on it. I'm really wanting to tow also thanks.
 

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Swicago how did you hook up your tow bars to the ARB? I've called about mounting plates but no one can answer me. Any info you have on this would be great, and why fourth. I've also read the article about T/case in the H/road and the trans in neutral but never saw anything more on it. I'm really wanting to tow also thanks.
I bought the Demco Excali-Bar II tow bar, rated at 10'500 lbs (most tow bars are max 5k and with all the mods, my FJ is pushing it).

Then I welded OK offroad 7/8" shackle mounts to the front of the ARB, where it it is boxed in and strongest (I have used them for recovery too).

Last I bought shackle to tow bar adapter made by Warrior Products.

This setup gives allows for easy connect/disconnect of the tow bar and keeps the factory recovery points free for the safety chains.

Last, It is better to put the t-Case in N and the trans in 4th. Joe and I chose 4th because it is in the middle of the trans and least likely to fall out of gear. In theory the trans could be in N too, but then there is risk it could start rotating a bit. Putting it in gear keeps it from moving at all.
I tried putting T-case in AWD and trans in N. That worked too, but the trans heated up to full operating temps(200°F). Only T-case in N, kept temps on T-case around 120°F and trans only had residual heat(about 80°F). I assume the guy that did AWD and trans in N eventually burned up his trans, probably why he never replied to anyone again. I have now done as many miles as that guy and everything is fine. Joe has done 8+ times as much and his FJ is fine too...it is just hard to believe w/o seeing proof. Also, I understand toyota too, why say you can and then deal with warranty claims...I am out of warranty, I could care less LOL
 

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Thanks again. I thought I remembered seeing those shackle mounts before on you FJ in other posts but I just needed to be sure. I went to Loves and weighed my FJ it came in at 5200lbs. I need to shead 200lbs. for my Rv but that won't be a problem. My brother used to bahas and he calls them lead sleads. Lol- have a good one and thanks. ( like your Rv by the way).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks again. I thought I remembered seeing those shackle mounts before on you FJ in other posts but I just needed to be sure. I went to Loves and weighed my FJ it came in at 5200lbs. I need to shead 200lbs. for my Rv but that won't be a problem. My brother used to bahas and he calls them lead sleads. Lol- have a good one and thanks. ( like your Rv by the way).
I don't think you need to shed any weight. 5000lbs weight limit is when using a trailer. Look at your hitch sticker, it will most likely have a pic of a trailer and 5000lbs next to it and then another pic with a car on all fours with 7500lbs next to it. There is a lot less hitch weight when flat towing.
 

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I've dolly towed before, lots of bounce and sway. Everthing I've read about flat towing sounds like the only way to go.
I was looking at the bolt on shackles, but placement could be a problem. I can weld but with that kind of stress I'd need to find a good shop if I go with the others. My RV says I can go to a total 20,000 lb combind weight and I'm well under that totally loaded. The hitch has 500/5000 max from what I've found on it but I'll take another look.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I've dolly towed before, lots of bounce and sway. Everthing I've read about flat towing sounds like the only way to go.
I was looking at the bolt on shackles, but placement could be a problem. I can weld but with that kind of stress I'd need to find a good shop if I go with the others. My RV says I can go to a total 20,000 lb combind weight and I'm well under that totally loaded. The hitch has 500/5000 max from what I've found on it but I'll take another look.
The FJ tracks really well, you can see that in the Video. If I didn't know I hooked it up, I wouldn't know it was there. Weld on is the way to go on the ARB, a shop should be able to do this for about $50.-
You may need an upgraded hitch, but double check.
 

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The paperwork says a trailer can not exceed 5000 lbs. Towed vehicals can not exceed 20,000 lbs total combind weight. I'm at 19,050 lbs combined so I'm good, with some room. Of course I'll disconnect going over mountain areas; let her drive the FJ.
( I'm in a Class-C with the V-10 not a diesel pusher like yours). :cheers:
 

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I only had to splice a single wire for my braking/lighting setup. If anyone is interested, I can post up the braking system and schematics of where to tap, etc.

[/QUOTE]

That info would be great also :thinkerg: Thanks
 

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I'm just curious and have no plans or means to tow my FJ... but would a AT be able to do this? Is that gear-driven pump the same on the AT transfer case?

Why is it best to have the MT in 4th? Doesn't it not move with the transfer case in neutral? Did the temps rise more in other gears? Why would that be?
 

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I'm just curious and have no plans or means to tow my FJ... but would a AT be able to do this? Is that gear-driven pump the same on the AT transfer case?
I do not own an AT, so I don't know...

Why is it best to have the MT in 4th? Doesn't it not move with the transfer case in neutral? Did the temps rise more in other gears? Why would that be?
Already answered this in post #4, go up 10posts...geesh :lol:
 

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I'll work on the schematics as soon as I can, but just so you know the braking portion is for USgear only. Other braking devices will be different.
Sounds good, any ideas and info will help thanks.

I'm going to hook up my power for the braking system to the Rv and the lights (ez hook up) but I have another car we might pull so I'm going to use a removable system.

(I did order the mounts, adaptors and, tow bar). :clap:
 

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Sounds good, any ideas and info will help thanks.

I'm going to hook up my power for the braking system to the Rv and the lights (ez hook up) but I have another car we might pull so I'm going to use a removable system.

(I did order the mounts, adaptors and, tow bar). :clap:
Cool beans...you may have to buy some fat washers if the adapters are wider then the tow bar.
I'll also try my best to find time this weekend to get pics of where I routed wires, placed controllers, etc...and also get a schematic up.
 

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In the pic with the STOP lights RELAY tap; is that buss in there the power for you controler module on the breaking sytem? I really like that "USgear" set up.
 

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In the pic with the STOP lights RELAY tap; is that buss in there the power for you controler module on the breaking sytem? I really like that "USgear" set up.
Yes, that is the brake controller fuse you see in there. It links the FJ battery and the RV battery together and protects the controller. I chose this spot, because the alternator first connects to the fuse box, before it connects to the battery. So I connected to that stud you see in the fuse box and it is protected from the elements. You can see that fat wiring loom I installed T a bunch of wires in that direction. To the 2-3wire converter and to the fuse/battery.

The main reason I chose USgear over just buying an airbrake adapter was
1: didn't want to risk losing brakes if there is an air leak.
2: usgear is progressive, meaning it has an accelerometer. I brakes harder if you brake hardee.
3: it does not activate brakes on jake brake application or brakes on stand still, but still lights FJs brake lights
4: easy to connect/disconnect
5: great track record
 
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