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Discussion Starter #1
Gentlemen, please take a look at this. I used fuel injector cleaner and sludge cleaner, is that the reason? One guy told this happens if spark plug or something like that goes wrong. Any advise appreciated.

@FJtest
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This is normal.

It's due to short drives in cold weather.

I don't worry about it. EVERY vehicle gets it around here.
 

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Another possibility is a bad head gasket, although I think Winterpeg's scenario is more likely.
 

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What are the typical outdoor temperatures at your location, and how long are your typical driving cycles?

What you are seeing is a yellowish or whitish oil/water emulsion, the result of water in the crankcase.

The source can be condensation from water vapor in the blow-by (combustion gas leaking past the piston rings), or from a head gasket leak.

If you are in a cold part of the country, and don't drive long enough distances to get the oil fully up to operating temperature, this condensed water from blow-by never gets evaporated and slowly builds up. This can eventually lead to oil deterioration, sludge build-up, and internal engine corrosion.

1. First, make sure that your PVC valve and associated hoses are perfectly clean and that the PCV system is purging the crankcase properly.

2. Make sure that your engine cooling system (coolant thermostat and thermostatic fan clutch) is operating properly. At 50 degree ambient temperature, with engine idling, operating temperature of ~180F should be reached in ~2 - 3 minutes.

3. Make an effort to drive the vehicle far enough and fast enough several times a week to get the oil up to operating temperature and keep it there for at least 1/2 hour.

4. Install a block heater to help the engine reach operating temperature more quickly.

5. Increase the frequency of oil changes.

6. Spend $25 to have Blackstone perform an oil analysis to determine the percentage of water in your oil, and if any glycol (antifreeze from a leaking head gasket) is present.

Remember that nearly 9 gallons of water are produced in your engine's cylinders for every gallon of gasoline burned. The great majority of this is carried out with the exhaust, but some does get past the piston rings and into the oil. If the oil doesn't get up near 200F, and stay at that temperature long enough to vaporize the water in the oil, the PCV system will never be able to carry it away.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Dear fellow FJers, thank you so much for sharing your thoughts and I truly appreciate that.

@FJtest , you are absolutely right. I live in a snow belt in Canada, which translates -10 to -20 most of the time. As mentioned earlier two things I did :
1. Put fuel injector cleaner.
2. Added sludge remover (not the one, put it remove it, but the one put it and run for couple thousands kms one).
3. My office is just 10 kms away and got another two SUVs, so the length of drive is very short through snow on alternative days. Never cross 60 KMS/H like 35 Miles I guess, as roads are fairly small.

I changed engine oil this time at just 1000 KMS and now vehicle is running bit smooth. Previously it was running like brake caliper was stuck, always pulling back. Checked the brakes and rotors and nothing was stuck. So now I am thinking that sludge remover was causing that pull back? God knows. After yesterday's oil change, things are smooth so far.



1. First, make sure that your PVC valve and associated hoses are perfectly clean and that the PCV system is purging the crankcase properly.
Ans: I will investigate and find out where this PVC valve locates and make all efforts to clean it.

2. Make sure that your engine cooling system (coolant thermostat and thermostatic fan clutch) is operating properly. At 50 degree ambient temperature, with engine idling, operating temperature of ~180F should be reached in ~2 - 3 minutes.
Ans: I will investigate and see how to confirm engine cooling system and thermostatic fan is working.

3. Make an effort to drive the vehicle far enough and fast enough several times a week to get the oil up to operating temperature and keep it there for at least 1/2 hour.
Ans: LOL.. our roads are kind of narrow and with full of snow; eventhough I wish to drive it as a bugatti, it goes as Mr.Beans car :) :) Daily drives are short 15 minutes X 2, back and forth to office. I will go for a long drive.

4. Install a block heater to help the engine reach operating temperature more quickly.
Ans: Sure, will see to that FJT.

5. Increase the frequency of oil changes.
Ans : Fuel changing intervals are now just 1000 KMS, which is 650 Miles.

6. Spend $25 to have Blackstone perform an oil analysis to determine the percentage of water in your oil, and if any glycol (antifreeze from a leaking head gasket) is present.
Ans: Great tip, will do that.

@FJtest , I am hoping my vehicle is not taking it's last breath. Love my little FJ :)

Thank you FJT and everyone else.
 

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5. Increase the frequency of oil changes.
Ans : Fuel changing intervals are now just 1000 KMS, which is 650 Miles.
If you do a half hour drive at least once a week you don't need to change it that often. I would consider 3000 miles or about 5000 kms.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If you do a half hour drive at least once a week you don't need to change it that often. I would consider 3000 miles or about 5000 kms.

Vehicle already has a P0016 error code. So I am reluctant to go for a longer drive. If you see my other posts you can see my engine got sludge build up as previous customer changed oil rarely I guess.
 
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